Foutz And others sell a kit that removes or replaces the slot, Altogether...., so once you figure out where your alignment needs to be, you put in a plate.
And weld it in place. Then it won't move again.
On other IFS vehicles I've had these slots, get torn up. Pretty bad and the pins shear off...
Wait. So you're saying that the thai rods aren't toast after all? After reading the thread starter, I went out and started wiggling shit on my truck and realized that it wasn't my Thai rods that were going bad. It was the upper ball joint on the upper control arm, failing on the opposite side...
The spicers are the biggest and the spicers are the best... you do need to get the thirty two Splined ones to get the benefits. And of course, this requires a new FDU.
Because the Spicer has the biggest bell. It also has the widest angle of operation. The bigger the bell, the more angle is...
With these genius replies, It's almost like no one is ever driven in the snow ice or in muddy, rough conditions with the swaybar disconnected or connected .
My observations show not only with the Bronco, but with other vehicles that it makes a huge difference to have the sway bar removed or...
the Ranger Raptor has the same ball joint taper, upper ball joint angle, bolt pattern, tie rod taper too...It also has NO IWE, so the stub axles should be identical as well, as normal Bronco
Update...
so the RANGER RAPTOR UCAs and LCAs are a direct bolt-on. (must use new coilovers) these provide a little over 1" per side of track width. also can improve wheel travel with correct length shocks.
The Braptor A-arms are a bit more of an issue as the ball joint taper and steering axis...
I checked mine yesterday and it's still intact...I have modified mine, the smaller clamp is removed from the boot. this allows the boot to move up and down the shaft as it moves with suspension. Thus saving the boot.
It's standard 32 spline output, or is it not?
No need to re-engineer anything...the Ranger Raptor 4 bolt flange DEFINITELY fits the t-case...and there's likely A 1410 series double cardon flange available for it....
I bet @Ducati1098 could find the part # for R-Raptor t-case flange.
QUOTE="Texasgrillchef, post: 2184505, member: 18114"]
Bronco Buster seems to have this rack with their bushing and housing upgrade on it and fully plug n play ready and allready programmed.
has anyone tried their setup? Did it work?
I was thinking about getting this system and putting FMI Heim...
I'll add that the positive side is noted on the plug in picture...and the #1 outfitter switch is yellow wire.
plugs can be found on eBay also.
Super easy swap on our Wildtrak...love that you can activate at any speed any mode.
We've had three 2 doors, and of the 3, only the WT3.0 has the sway bar... I read that Ford was able to use softer shock Springs on the units with the anti-roll bar. This allows for a softer ride while still keeping the vehicle stable side to side. And it's noticeable with the hoss 3.0...
ABS software is different I thinks...also some more doors have a different steering rack ratio in 2.0 version, so the computer sees wrong values (turn angle) and "may not" work ideally in 100% of computerized scenarios. maybe.