I only have it go off when a car in front of me is turning left and I know he's going to turn before I get there AND I have room on the right if he doesn't.
I fixed something similar to this, by the driver's left foot there is kind of like a push pin connector securing a wire. Mine was not deeply seated, I pushed it and then a particular rattle went away for me.
"The 10r60 attempts to keep your engine around 2600 rpm"
No it doesn't. Do you mean under higher loads? Because then yeah, sure. But I'm talking specifically about under LOW LOADS (aka most of the time).
Your own link says that quite clearly, for a given low load (anywhere in the bottom of...
That peak efficiency range is under WOT. If you're just cruising at 30 mph then it's more efficient to be at 1300 than 2800 rpm.
You're right that sometimes more revs may be more efficient than more boost...but you're misunderstanding that "peak efficiency range" idea.
What speed is "highway"? Anything over like 55 and it's going to start dropping hard.
My commute is ideal, like sustained 45-65 with very few stops. My tanks are 21+
The alternator is smart and your voltage reading while driving will constantly change.
Usually when accelerating the alternator isn't doing anything. Usually when coasting it is, and V will be 14+.
Just fyi, it's going to bounce around a lot while driving.