Impressive rock crawling by stock Bronco Badlands Sasquatch @ Sand Hollow [Lite Brite]

[NotGuilty]

Sure. Bring it on out. Would be great. As long as you are ok with bumps and bangs and dings

I'm fine with adding a few beauty marks. My first trip to Moab a couple weeks ago was a wash due to snow. I was only able to do Long Canyon and the Shafer Trail to Canyonlands. Planned on Fins and Things and Hells Revenge.

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[Wade Garrett]

I think the two easy solutions is knock them out and reverse them and or add protect plates.

Reversing sounds like the move here

 

[RynoRanger]

Also worth mentioning they took off the lower-end section of the front bumper... and on the non-squatch badlands I would have that extra "bar" aka crash bar to contend with... which when staging I COULD technically take those off and put them back on before road driving but. worth mentioning.

Wondering what PSI they ran.

I couldn't clear some of that as the squatch has what... 1/5-2" + 35's instead of 33's?

Also... I'm also concerned about longevity of parts... I beat mine up pretty good this weekend pushing harder to get off trail in the flats /washboards (kinda baja / what she was built to do) before the sun completely went down but... all good so far.

 

[jonesh242]

SO GODANG COOL! Thanks for posting. Can't wait to see what upgrades y'all do.

 

[UncleBuck]

If y’all liked this one wait for Wednesday evening video where we go against a stock rubicon with 35s and do an 8 and 7 rated trail!

Been following you guys for a long time. Glad to see you're in the forum and have a Bronco! I'm excited to see how it will compare to the stock Rubicon. Will you be keeping a public build sheet on you Bronco for modifications?

 

[LiteBrite]

@LiteBrite hey Kevin any plans for skids or sliders for the Real Bronco (2-door)? Or is this only for the station wagons? LOL just kidding on the terminology but seriously, us 2-Door owners need some love too

Yup. All of n the works. Sliders first then skids. Sliders should be available this month at next venture motorsports. I’m testing them this week

 

[LiteBrite]

Been following you guys for a long time. Glad to see you're in the forum and have a Bronco! I'm excited to see how it will compare to the stock Rubicon. Will you be keeping a public build sheet on you Bronco for modifications?

Ya at REVKIT.com

 

[LiteBrite]

Also worth mentioning they took off the lower-end section of the front bumper... and on the non-squatch badlands I would have that extra "bar" aka crash bar to contend with... which when staging I COULD technically take those off and put them back on before road driving but. worth mentioning.

Wondering what PSI they ran.

I couldn't clear some of that as the squatch has what... 1/5-2" + 35's instead of 33's?

Also... I'm also concerned about longevity of parts... I beat mine up pretty good this weekend pushing harder to get off trail in the flats /washboards (kinda baja / what she was built to do) before the sun completely went down but... all good so far.

Just remove the front and rear crash bars and leave them off. Not needed. I run 15psi

 

[JakeC]

@LiteBrite Can I recommend a profile picture, so you don't inadvertently get mistaken for a newb? {grin}

 

[Lazerus]

Because when you go from rocks to high speed desert to sand dunes all in the same area you want the sway bar to connect again for the high speed sections and sand duning. It’s very nice to have it available when you live in the desert and then I just go right to pavement and keep driving. To each their own but there is definitely a good use for it

I'm in the SW desert as well and I've always left mine (2 door JL) disconnected even transitioning to sand. The sfa feels less harsh over bumps at speed when disconnected. Of course, I'm not carving turns at 50 either. But I can see wanting to re-connect in the Bronco as it's going to be way more comfortable doing high speed desert runs.
If I have to take pavement to connect trails that's long enough to want to be connected, I'm probably going to want to air back up as well anyway...

 

[RynoRanger]

Just remove the front and rear crash bars and leave them off. Not needed. I run 15psi

15... got it. Just wondering how much I can do safely w/o beadlocks.

RE: crash bars... I heard it (and the one behind the front tire) are for helping prevent the tire pushing into the cabin on frontal impact. I was initially wondering why they included both on Badlands but took them off w/ a Sasquatch package. Obviously for clearance of the 35's but... if they're that important for frontal impact don't you think they'd want that on all models/trims? lol

 

[mikeheel]

Great stuff, @LiteBrite. Really enjoy your content no matter the vehicle. Keep it up!

 

[LiteBrite]

Leaving lockers on downhill make it more difficult or hurts the drivetrain or you just don’t need them?

Going and down up crawling it would seem tedious to turn both on then both off the both on again…etc. Thanks

You let gravity do work. You can’t turn as easy when locked and it makes the vehicle start to pitch sideways. Downhill you want lockers off. Hitting a button shouldn’t be tedious at all. It’s knowing when and when not to use lockers that keeps things from breaking. You can break stuff because you used lockers in the wrong situation and you can break stuff for not using lockers. But down hill no lockers.

 

[71to21-2DR]

Wow pretty impressive!
I would never beat mine like that but it’s good to know you can!

 

[Richtor]

You let gravity do work. You can’t turn as easy when locked and it makes the vehicle start to pitch sideways. Downhill you want lockers off. Hitting a button shouldn’t be tedious at all. It’s knowing when and when not to use lockers that keeps things from breaking. You can break stuff because you used lockers in the wrong situation and you can break stuff for not using lockers. But down hill no lockers.

Thanks. I’m assuming lockers turn off and on instantly meaning they don’t require a certain amount of roll to engage/disengage?

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