Look what I did - painted MIC hardtop, fender flares, side mirrors [updated with doors-on photos]

[Dadsquatch]

Looks fantastic! What we all didn’t realize is the OP is the vendor for the ‘23 MY painted tops. He can produce one at at time, so should be able to keep up with Ford’s production line given their pace.

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[Fly by Nite]

I blocked the entire surface with 150grit then primed then 150 blocked and 220 blocked then primed again then blocked with 320 and da with 400 and yes I blocked the most of the surface flat I used ppg 3055 primer

Thanks for the info. That was a lot of work but ya gotta do what ya gotta do if you want good results. Hope the substrate holds up well for you.

 

[JGayler911]

looks awesome!!! How was it getting the side windows out?

 

[Robertriley]

I'd love to see pics with the doors and everything on it. Great job!

 

[F-Spot]

That looks nice! Seen others do similar (flares, mirror) in other colors and it's too much....

Yours is nice. You may need to think about changing your handle or personalized plate like Blue Mule or BLUBYU, etc....

funny enough...BLUBYU is the plate for a blue M3 around where I live...well, at least it was a few years ago...I used to see it on the road all the time lol

 

[BuckYeah]

It's stunning. Nice work! Much better than my crappy Photoshop.

 

[leziz]

Fantastic! Does the color controllable?

 

[flip]

Products used on the top? PTM flares or are those the factory SAS? How did you prep these to get paint to stick? We tried and they turned out horrible and had to us the paint to match set,

 

[snolen]

Products used on the top? PTM flares or are those the factory SAS? How did you prep these to get paint to stick? We tried and they turned out horrible and had to us the paint to match set,

all ppg products on top also basecoat is water-based and yes these are the textured now smooth SAS flares

 

[telenerd]

Very nice work, you should be proud. I’d like to see pics with the doors and top on. That color really works well.

 

[flip]

all ppg products on top also basecoat is water-based and yes these are the textured now smooth SAS flares

You end up filling the flares or just keep sanding until texture was gone? My guys have no problems getting paint to stick on other plastics but couldn't get the promoter to bite so they could use a high solid fill to get smooth. Ended up saying the heck with and did the ptm set. Sent the SAS set over to LineX and on a BB to see how well it holds up.

We uses Spies Hecker solvent base stuff. Tried water years ago and didn't have a lot of luck with.

 

[broadicustomworks]

Products used on the top? PTM flares or are those the factory SAS? How did you prep these to get paint to stick? We tried and they turned out horrible and had to us the paint to match set,

Personally I'd use adhesion promoter once sanded, before the first coat of primer. It goes a long way.
I assume OP did, as it makes ALL the difference in adhesion on plastics, as does an epoxy or polyester primer.

He used PPG products, which gets a lot of respect from me. IT's not cheap, and is good stuff.
A lot of lower-tier stuff just doesn't do as well for adhesion, coverage, or longevity.

@snolen I haven't weighed in on this yet, but want to say nice work from someone who does custom/restorations. I do it all but my love is painting.
This turned out nice, and I hope it holds up over time.

My biggest concern early on was the substrate of the MIC top itself being paintable and able to stay sound over time. Good thing is this shell of protection should help insulate it from the elements and allow for it to be ok.
Again, nice work.

 

[broadicustomworks]

You end up filling the flares or just keep sanding until texture was gone? My guys have no problems getting paint to stick on other plastics but couldn't get the fillers to bite so they could use a high solid fill to get smooth. Ended up saying the heck with and did the ptm set. Sent the SAS set over to LineX and on a BB to see how well it holds up.

We uses Spies Hecker solvent base stuff. Tried water years ago and didn't have a lot of luck with.

Try Evercoat Rage filler.
I was a Bondo Gold user for years until I got a can of that stuff to try.
Never looked back.

It's harder to sand, but the fiberglass-reinforced stuff sticks to stuff quite well as well.
You just kind of have to experiment.
The rougher you can etch the surface, the better off you are. I have done as aggressive as 40 grit as the final sand before filler before.

EDIT: Then high build primer over your bodywork. Block smooth.
Your guys should be in the know pretty well, above is just a suggestion.

 

[flip]

Try Evercoat Rage filler.
I was a Bondo Gold user for years until I got a can of that stuff to try.
Never looked back.

It's harder to sand, but the fiberglass-reinforced stuff sticks to stuff quite well as well.
You just kind of have to experiment.
The rougher you can etch the surface, the better off you are. I have done as aggressive as 40 grit as the final sand before filler before.

We use Rage. I need to talk to Curt and see if he sanded prior to promoter then just built up a few layers of fill or what exactly they did. I know my BS manger said nothing stuck to the under side of the flare which may have something to do with the mold release agent. The paint to match feel like a different type of plastic and turned out fine, stock ones, not so much.

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