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Ksjrb03

Ksjrb03

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Awesome write up and directions
Setup mine the same exact way except for the center speaker.
I have a couple questions for you if you don’t mind
1. Is there a work around on removing the center dash panel? I can not for the life of me remove those screws! I can’t see in there and every time i think i have it i dont so frustrating! I probably stripped the bolt already.
2. Mind sharing your sound settings
Treble, bass, fade etc….

Thanks again for this thread
1. There is no work around. You have to remove two screws then it pops out. Its a bit tricky, there is an angle that your driver needs to be at, its not intuitive. Make sure your using the correct torx bit too, I dont remember what it was been a while. T20?
2. Im away from my Bronco this week, and honestly I play with it often so they change.
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1. There is no work around. You have to remove two screws then it pops out. Its a bit tricky, there is an angle that your driver needs to be at, its not intuitive. Make sure your using the correct torx bit too, I dont remember what it was been a while. T20?
2. Im away from my Bronco this week, and honestly I play with it often so they change.
Thanks you very much for the help!
I went with the T15 at an angle and out it came.
Yeah I figured there's really no setting that fits all.
I really appreciate your very informative thread and Help
 

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I started my overhaul of the B&O system a couple months ago, and finished buttoning it up this weekend. It’s been a long journey of trial and error, and parts returned or wasted, but I’m thrilled with the final results. I have contributed to many threads along the way, but wanted to consolidate it all into a completed build thread as I get many questions about what I’ve done.

I’ll start out with why I got started on this project. To put it bluntly, I think the B&O system is pretty bad for a “premium“ system. It’s pretty much lacking in every way, low power, muddy highs, boomy rattly bass, and really bad soundstage with most all of the sound coming from the windshield. The speakers are cheap, paper, and half of them are the same speakers used in the base system.

FCB1F91B-B208-4A7F-8420-8109E06454D9.jpeg


I would rate the system 4/10 stock, and 15/10 after upgrades. This rating is based solely on my expectations/experiences of a factory “premium” system with cost as a factor. From the factory it severely missed expectations, after upgrades it blows away my expectations, as it should. The sub kicks. I haven't had a system that can rattle the mirrors since high school. I won’t be rattling mirrors, but I could if I want :cool:

I will list the parts ”I” used. Wiring diagrams and shop manuals for removal/install are attached.

Parts

JL C1 4” - $99 pair x2
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13699040/JL-Audio-C1-400x.html

JL C1 6.5” - $149 pair
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13699042/JL-Audio-C1-650x.html

Focal ACX 4” - $109 pair
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_091ACX100/Focal-ACX-100.html

Kicker Comp R 8” 4ohm DVC sub - $89
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08NFHJZNP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Kicker Key 500.1 amp - $270
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084HLH77B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Kicker wired remote bass control - $39
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08D3TVFBX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

right angle extension wire for bass control knob - $11
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0793KZYXD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

25’ 8guage copper amp wire - $25
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079RZF94M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

8 gauge amp fuse/battery connector - $9
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071ZZZK5W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1

8 gauge ring terminal for ground - $7
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0747M3SYQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

4“ speaker wire harness adapter - x3 - $12.99 each pair
search Amazon
1670B520-8B2E-4CF1-B261-B8D85BB9B963.jpeg



Kilmat sound deadening sheets - $35
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082Q2J2T4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Total - $979.97

Dash Speakers

There are three 4” speakers in the dash. I used JL C1 for all three. I originally tried Focal ACX, but found them very “bright”. I ended up using the Focals in the rear pods and the JLs in the dash. This combination works great, as the bright Focal pods allow more rear fill, that was canceled out having Focals in the dash as well. This combination makes huge improvements to the overall soundstage, actually having some rear fill is an amazing improvement. Don’t skip the center channel! It’s is the workhorse up front, especially if you use surround mode.

Replacing these speakers is pretty straightforward, remove trim panel, unbolt speaker, attach harness adapter, reinstall. Shop manual attached if you need it. I highly suggest a nice set of panel removal tools so you don’t scratch up the plastic. I tossed some kilmat underneath each speaker, trying to make the hollow space underneath more of a pocket.

6EB6069E-35F0-4188-8D19-D82628C69730.jpeg

3DB65EFD-E4B9-4443-9146-17359F8DE049.jpeg

789CC5B0-4F40-4FB0-B0D6-218BCF082B1A.jpeg



The center channel is a little tricky, you need to remove a screw on each side of the “accessory ready” bolt, remove that, then you can remove the speaker cover panel.

788548E7-EB84-4450-A00B-152CEE30B4B4.jpeg

73B6177C-30D6-44BC-9CCA-3F98B356B95C.jpeg


Kick Panel

I used JL C1s here as well. Honestly a 2 way speaker is not needed here in the kick panels. The DSP/amp filters out highs, this is a place you could cheap out a bit If you want. The C1s came with a trim ring mounting adapter that worked great. Crutchfield also sent a Metra adapter that I did not use, and also sent a wiring harness adapter that I did use, both free. I used Kilmat behind these speakers as well. Removing the panels is easy enough, but it’s kind of an awkward spot to work in. There is a foam section below the speaker housing you will need to make a slit in and feed the wiring through. Button everything up with zip ties. Shop manual attached.

2CF2282C-4AC8-41BB-827E-18F6963B2D83.jpeg

A2B60198-7BA9-4D82-8A8B-96121BB69AC5.jpeg

9C3C4F7B-BC22-4932-BAF9-80B868011766.jpeg


Rear Pod Speakers

As mentioned before I used Focal ACX back here. They work great to provide some much needed rear fill. These are the easiest speakers to replace. Pop the cover off by squeezing both sides and it will pop right off. Unscrew speaker, install wiring harness, reinstall. I filled the entire cavity with kilmat again. Shop manual attached.

453A1B23-4B0B-4BEA-8A61-1FC13CA1F04D.jpeg

CB2457E0-2E45-471C-B9C4-774F92A9A933.jpeg



Sub/Amp

This is where things got interesting. I first tried to just swap the sub speaker, and long story short that was a huge fail. I tried two different subs. A $300 Rockford P3 that popped and clicked, underpowered to say the least. A $19 Pyle sub worked, but wasn’t much if any improvement over the stock sub. I took a pause here as life got busy. Then got re-interested by @cmcbronco and his great thread on installing the B&O sub enclosure on a base system. Lots of great info here.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/b-o-sub-installed-on-base-bronco-…-sorta….37207/

I ended up going with a Kicker Comp R 4 ohm DVC sub and Kicker key 500.1 amp. I wired the sub parallel to get 2 ohm at the amp. The beauty of this amp is you can use the speaker wires going to the factory sub as high level inputs. This will also work for the power on, so no need to find a trigger on circuit. I called Kicker and confirmed the sub wires coming from the factory amp will work for high level inputs, no line output converter needed. They said this is exactly what this amp was designed for.

The Comp R sub fits the factory enclosure great, but you need to pry the plastic trim ring off with a screwdriver. No modification needed to the enclosure with this sub. Shout out to @SCTWNB for the great mounting location for the amp, I wouldn’t of thought of this location myself. It’s mounted to the roll bar, snugged in there next to sub enclosure. It is a bit tricky, but take your time, mark your holes, drill some pilot holes. Use double sided mounting tape to hold it up for install and cushion it from the body. If you plan to use this location pay close attention to where i have it, any higher and the PATS antenna mounted on the quarter panel will interfere. A right angle adapter is needed for the remote volume wire, which I installed under the HVAC controls. Wire runs down the passenger side wire channel, up kick panel, behind glovebox.

2F409D2A-206D-4699-A809-D31E0E9E3B52.jpeg


I ran 8 gauge power wire across the cargo area behind rear seats, down floor wiring panels under door, up front kick panels, and through grommet in the firewall. Fused at battery, and connected to one of the spare spots Ford gave us. Need an M5 or M6 nut here, depending which you use. Ground is wired To the factory ground found right above sub. I cut the factory sub wires that are sealed in the grommet in sub enclosure, and connected them to the high level inputs on the amp. Cut off the RCA ends, and connected them with butt connectors, make sure you get polarity correct! Wiring drawing below. I drilled holes in the same grommet to run 14g speaker wire to the sub. Apologies for the lack of installation pics on most of this, I will grab some and update later if needed.

E1C1CC7A-D8AE-41C6-94BC-BF4CFABD6A9E.jpeg

341AC928-BA0A-4304-8E60-61A8DCC211F1.jpeg

B2A8257F-9DB3-49AC-9635-150D01E60BE2.jpeg

C5C95A97-5B46-45F5-B8CC-7EEAD7E4B019.jpeg


I ended up stuffing the enclosure with PolyFil. This really helped, the bass is less boomy, hits harder and tighter if that makes sense. I had to re-adjust my preferred settings afterwards, it makes a difference. Someone that doesn’t want to bother with a sub/amp should try adding polyfil to the oem sub. I bet it helps alot.

2233DC51-8D2C-454B-8549-E8955117920B.jpeg




Rattle Battle

Anyone with the B&O system knows the sub is a rattle machine at higher volumes. I had the rear panels off no less than 5 times prior to upgrade finding and fixing rattles. I had my doubts if it could ever be rattle free with an aftermarket sub and amp. I am declaring 98% victory on rattles. For my everyday listening music and volumes it’s 100% victory.

I did so much fighting rattles it’s impossible to remember and list it all. My method was simple, play certain 90s gangsta rap songs with repeated bass frequencies on loop that generate rattle everytime. Loud. When neighbors were out that turned to bass frequency sweeps and loops I found online. Play loud and go around using your ears to pinpoint and your hands to feel and absorb. What I ended up with is Kilmat in the entire cargo area, 3 rolls of cloth tape wrapping wires, connectors, insulating behind pins, wiring under rear seats, etc. Used Kilmat to insulate behind most things touching the body. Suspect panel clips were replaced (and several broken). Be diligent in your battle and you can win!

8E21CFC7-1C70-4899-9843-AFFA71995826.jpeg

CB3928B8-4A62-48ED-B19B-808ACE461E28.jpeg


Panel clips and part #s

B222F1AF-3BEF-41C5-ABDD-7C42038DC7D9.jpeg

26699692-752A-48A1-A836-B1476371555A.jpeg

F630E772-595D-4407-BF06-00B96DA70D51.jpeg

8F029899-9CD6-4E90-841B-07CDAD8F9E2F.jpeg



Wiring drawing

9FECE6C4-3926-46C0-ABAD-983AC0E79792.jpeg

06D39505-54BC-45BB-B31F-617775D85F52.jpeg


Shop Manuals for removing trim
Very nice detailed write-up. I too have the B&O and couldn't agree more how disappointing it is, especially when driving at freeway speeds with top and/or doors off. It is basically useless to even have any audio on and I have already replaced all my speakers except factory sub (many using JL Audio). I have maybe one dumb question that I couldn't gather from reading your post as I know just enough about car audio systems to be dangerous. Does your new amp only amplify the subwoofer and not the rest of the regular speakers up front and in the pods? I thought the factory amp is only powering the subwoofer so assume yours is as well (but you know what they say about "assuming".

I would like an all around bump in good clean power for those days when I drive with the top/doors off, which is now quite often in these summer days. To me it needs to be amplifiled on all speakers and sub (both low and high frequencies). Does your amp do the trick? I know when the Bronco frst came out, many said it would be very hard to upgrade the B&O system like that but hoping that mystery has been cracked.
 
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Ksjrb03

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Very nice detailed write-up. I too have the B&O and couldn't agree more how disappointing it is, especially when driving at freeway speeds with top and/or doors off. It is basically useless to even have any audio on and I have already replaced all my speakers except factory sub (many using JL Audio). I have maybe one dumb question that I couldn't gather from reading your post as I know just enough about car audio systems to be dangerous. Does your new amp only amplify the subwoofer and not the rest of the regular speakers up front and in the pods? I thought the factory amp is only powering the subwoofer so assume yours is as well (but you know what they say about "assuming".

I would like an all around bump in good clean power for those days when I drive with the top/doors off, which is now quite often in these summer days. To me it needs to be amplifiled on all speakers and sub (both low and high frequencies). Does your amp do the trick? I know when the Bronco frst came out, many said it would be very hard to upgrade the B&O system like that but hoping that mystery has been cracked.
Ya my amp is a mono amp and only amplifies the sub. The factory amp amplifies the sub, corner dash 4”s, and the kick panel speakers. I am satisfied with the top on, but agree with you about top off. The factory amp is pretty weak. I know plug and play harness guy said he was working on a plug and play adapter for the rest of the speakers, I will be doing that once he releases it myself.
 

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Thanks for the clarification. I sent a note to plug and play harness asking if/when they will have a setup for the B&O system to amplify all systems! I am hoping soon. I play music at volume 23 to 25 with top fully down/doors off and still can't hear full fidelity. But there is so much road noise it also hides distortion so am worried i am just going to blow my new aftermarket speakers and not have anything... I wonder if Jeep's system is this bad with top/doors off?

As comparison, I have a restored 1981 CJ5 with two amps (one for a box sub and the other for the 4 speakers). It sounds great with top down so I know it can be done with these modern vehicles. But my CJ audio is much simpler than Ford's with a single DIN Pioneer head unit. Sometimes I long for the old days where it was so much easier to do your on upgrades.
 

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Been following this thread. Swapped out 3 dash speakers for JL and rear pods for Focal per original post, didn't mess with sub or kick panel speakers at all. Difference is night and day. Might best mod yet. Thanks for doing all the research!
 

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If anyone wants an extra 4" JL let me know (send me a PM) since I am left with one extra with only changing the front 3 dash speakers. Cost per OP was $99/pair.
 

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Planning on upgrading the front 3 dash speakers to the JLs and rear pods to the focals as OP suggested. Will polyfill and killmat the stock sub enclosure the best I can. No kick panels, no new sub and no new amp.
Has anyone done just this yet and can you confirm I should expect better results of the stock B&O?
 

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Does anyone have good instructions or a video on how to access the subwoofer on the B&O system? I just want to add some killmat/polyfil behind it but I can't find anything outlining how to access it?
 
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Does anyone have good instructions or a video on how to access the subwoofer on the B&O system? I just want to add some killmat/polyfil behind it but I can't find anything outlining how to access it?
The shop manual for pulling the panel is attached to my first post in this thread.
 

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The shop manual for pulling the panel is attached to my first post in this thread.
ah, thank you! I looked at the sub document but missed the rear cargo one completely, that's exactly what I was looking for. Will be doing this tomorrow, thanks again for your great write up!
 

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Greetings

I wanted to share my experience with following OP's write up.

Unlike the OP I was not disappointed with the B&O system. I really enjoyed using Carplay and I thought it sounded really good. While playing the radio, the sound wasn't as good but the sound coming from the front speakers did an adequate job especially at high speeds. The lack of sound from the rear speakers were a big reason why I took this step. This is coming from a 60 year old who made mixed tapes in the day and thought CD's were the bomb.

I read this thread and I thought that investing $3-350.00 in replacing the three dash speakers and the two rear speakers would be a risk worth taking so I ordered the exact set up as the OP. Installation was relatively easy including the dynamat and poly fill and the only minor difficult thing was the mid dash speaker. All told the entire install took about 2 hours total. I'm happy to report that I'm very pleased with the improvement. Quality sound can now be heard out of the rear speakers, (I now have surround sound) and the front speakers improved with better clarity for the radio.

One of the great things about this wonderful forum is the contributors like the OP who are much smarter about improving the factory system. I applaud the write up and I want to thank the OP for making my Bronco experience even better.
 

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Greetings

I wanted to share my experience with following OP's write up.

Unlike the OP I was not disappointed with the B&O system. I really enjoyed using Carplay and I thought it sounded really good. While playing the radio, the sound wasn't as good but the sound coming from the front speakers did an adequate job especially at high speeds. The lack of sound from the rear speakers were a big reason why I took this step. This is coming from a 60 year old who made mixed tapes in the day and thought CD's were the bomb.

I read this thread and I thought that investing $3-350.00 in replacing the three dash speakers and the two rear speakers would be a risk worth taking so I ordered the exact set up as the OP. Installation was relatively easy including the dynamat and poly fill and the only minor difficult thing was the mid dash speaker. All told the entire install took about 2 hours total. I'm happy to report that I'm very pleased with the improvement. Quality sound can now be heard out of the rear speakers, (I now have surround sound) and the front speakers improved with better clarity for the radio.

One of the great things about this wonderful forum is the contributors like the OP who are much smarter about improving the factory system. I applaud the write up and I want to thank the OP for making my Bronco experience even better.
I just completed the same exact thing and my feelings are the same, worth the investment.
I also have a leftover 4" JL (same one as OP) if anyone is interested DM me...
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