Advice for would-be Bronco off-roaders

[vrewald14]

After 6 months on this forum I can see that there are lots of potentially new off-road enthusiasts looking to get into Broncos! This is exciting and it’ll be great to see the 4x4 community grow in general.

I also see lots of “what’s this do”, “do I need this or that” type questions, so I thought I would lend my 2 cents on my general philosophy after having been heavy into off-roading the last ~15 years or so. With my below suggestions, I will assume that you may someday want to do some serious trails - not just gravel roads and an occasional mud rut.

1. Get a good driveline. The number one thing I want to tell you is that I believe it as FAR more advantageous to pony up as much money as possible to purchase the stoutest factory driveline that you can get in your rig - if you even remotely think you may wheel aggressively. I’m talking about making sure you spend your money on things that AREN’T easy to change or add on in the aftermarket / used market world.
   • The prime example of this would be axles. If you think you will someday want to run 35”+ tires, do everything within your power to get the M210 axles. An example of this in the Jeep world would be the Dana 35 axles - which are a serious drawback when one wants to get serious about wheeling. Especially with lockers.
2. Which brings me to my next point - lockers! The #1 single biggest improvement I made to my ‘79 Bronco was adding a rear Detroit-style locker. It’s simply AMAZING what happens when you get all tires turning in all conditions. Therefore - I HIGHLY recommend putting down the cash for lockers. Lockers are both difficult and expensive to add aftermarket. Adding a front locker also takes you to a whole other level.
3. Transfer Case. Swapping or modifying transfer cases is VERY difficult post-purchase. Therefore - get the best transfer case you can afford. Specifically, lowest available gearing is what you are after. Secondary transfer case features like automatic engagement are also highly valuable, but may not be justified as needed on it's own (if it were separate from the gearing).
4. Sway-bar disconnect. You NEED a sway-bar disconnect. You do NOT need the fancy-pants electronic disconnect Bronco offers as there will be aftermarket versions available cheap, but you cannot underestimate the value of this extra articulation. Adding an aftermarket version will likely be a nice intro to DIY vehicle modifications. Disconnects I think will be even more important with the Bronco due to the already lesser articulation compared to a solid front axle.
5. MINIMIZE any lift that you add. It’s amazing how much fun you can have on a small lift and 35” tires. You likely do not need >2in of lift in this Bronco to keep you happy and entertained for a LONG time. Honestly, I would recommend stock Badlands height and no lift for as long as possible. The primary reason for this is keeping your center of gravity as low as possible. High CGs equate to bad off-road handling. Good driving skills overcome lack of lift in many situations.
6. You do NOT NEED BEADLOCKS! I regularly run 12psi in the rear, and 15psi in the front. This is plenty low to get adequate deformation of the tire (see above picture). I have only had 1 problem with unseating a bead, which was due to winch operator error (I winched myself sideways when it wasn't necessary). Until you're doing expert level stuff, save your money for those lockers

In summary - I’m part of a Jeep Club and I CONSTANTLY see people buying expensive D44 crate axles, paying for lockers with install labor, etc., and generally speaking they always wish they would have just bought a Rubicon to begin with. It can eliminate a lot of headache if you’re think you might get serious. Starting with the best available hardware to begin with has a lot of advantages.

Important Contributions From Other Members (Paraphrased)

1. Trail Etiquette @Ramble_Offroad
   1. Never go wheeling alone
   2. Stay on designated routes
   3. Always pick up your trash
   4. Tread lightly
   5. Don't be an asshole
   6. Pay it forward
   7. Leave it better than you found it
   8. https://staythetrail.org/
2. Wheeling Advice @Ramble_Offroad @Bronco @WillisC’onnors @BLTN @broncoenthusiast @BAUS67 @395N @pan-y-cerveza @RevealItAsap
   1. Understand and stay within the limits of your equipment and skillset
      • Be realistic
      • Don't let anyone (especially cute girls/guys) talk you into exceeding your limits
   2. Carefully select your line and read the terrain. Walk the critical sections first. Walking the next obstacle section of the trail is a VERY helpful.
   3. Too much throttle + hopping = broken shit
   4. Join a local club. They will have access to private wheeling ground you won't. Also a great deal of experienced people.
   5. Anticipate the effects of poor weather. A moderate trail can become nearly impassable after just a few minutes of rain/snow
   6. Don't be afraid to use it. Part of wheeling is occasional damage. Obviously don't trash your rig, but using your common sense know that damage can be fixed.
   7. Traction is everything. Minimize wheel spin wherever possible. Tire placement on obstacles is very important.
3. Gear advice @Ramble_Offroad @Gr8Hortoni @Blksn955.o
   • You NEED a first aid kit. It can be simple.
   • Tire puncture repair kit & air compressor = gold
     • Great way to pick up 4x4 chicks err I mean friends
   • LOCKERS BEFORE LIGHTBARS!!!
     • When the rubber meats the road, ONLY functionality matters.
   • A blanket - girls love them and so do you
   • Roll of toilet paper. Definitely necessary - keep a full roll in a plastic bag. Leaves or a sacrificial sock are your alternative...

**EDIT 3/12/21**
Regarding recovery gear kits and what recovery gear you actually need:

Honestly I would stay away from the "ready made kits". It's not that the kits are bad, it's just that to me they seem overpriced for what you get and I prefer to build out my kits according to my unique needs and exactly what I want.

Here's what I take with me on every wheeling trip. Actually this stuff never leaves my vehicle because I have it stowed away so nicely. I'll try to organize things into "mandatory" and "optional".

Mandatory

• TWO 3"x30' tow straps - One for main connection vehicle to vehicle and other to serve as a tree strap (simply wrap around anchor point as needed to get right length) I really like these from Smittybilt and they're what I carry: https://www.amazon.com/Smittybilt-C...ds=smittybilt+tow+strap&qid=1615563540&sr=8-5
• Tree strap of some form (see above). I prefer just to use a second full-length strap, not the shorter purpose made tree straps. You are responsible for protecting the tree, and your gear. Never wrap your winch line around your anchor point and hook it to itself - you will damage your winch line and the tree.
• TWO metal clevises. 1 for attaching to vehicle and other for attaching to anchor point
• Non-bumper vehicle anchor point. Hooks bolted directly to frame, or 2" receiver hitch shackle (my favorite, provided that receiver hitch mount is in good shape and distributes load well) Welded recovery points are permissible as long as the welder was at all competent. If you can't judge competent weldments quickly visually, stay away from them.
• Jack for the appropriate height of your vehicle. I carry a bottle jack as the OEM jack is worthless on my lifted vehicle in offroad situations

Optional

• Extra clevises / shackles. One thing you can never have too many of
• A second 2" receiver hitch shackle. Always keep your first one in the rear hitch, and the second one for an unprepared buddy who has to pull you out
• Winch
• 2 Snatch blocks - incredibly valuable for tricky situations and winching sideways (it happens!) I use the Smittybilt ones.
• Dedicated tree strap - it is convenient to have but I would rather have a full length 2nd strap if I had to choose
• Log chain - only for unique situations and non-dynamic / non-shock loading
• High Lift Jack - I carry a 60" and it does come in handy occasionally
• High Lift Jack winch kit - Yes, you can use your High Lift Jack as a winch. A poor-man's winch and I used many times prior to getting an actual winch
• Shock-absorbing snatch strap. Good for when stuck in mud and you need to use dynamic momentum to break loose without breaking stuff
• Synthetic clevises - don't own any personally but a nice lightweight alternative to steel shackles

MIOBI (Make It Or Break It) - Knoxville, IA (private owned park)

Strike Ravine - Moab, UT

Iron Range - Gilbert, MN (Public DNR run park)

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[RG7]

[*]Sway-bar disconnect. You NEED a sway-bar disconnect. You do NOT need the fancy-pants electronic disconnect Bronco offers as there will be aftermarket versions available cheap, but you cannot underestimate the value of this extra articulation. Adding an aftermarket version will likely be a nice intro to DIY vehicle modifications. Disconnects I think will be even more important with the Bronco due to the already lesser articulation compared to a solid front axle.

All great points but I wanted to quote this one just for the visibility. Lots of folks getting themselves twisted up about the badlands SBD and basing their purchasing decision on that. It’s a convenience feature, not an extra capability. Aftermarket QD’s will be plentiful.

 

[Ramble_Offroad]

My recommendation for beginners.

Never go wheeling alone
Stay on designated routes
Always pick up your trash.
Lots of Throttle plus hopping = broken things.
Tire puncture repair kit & a compressor = gold
Don’t be an asshole.

https://staythetrail.org/

 

[Broncodave]

That first picture doesn't even look real!

 

[Gr8Hortoni]

Words to live by..... “Lockers before Lights”.

if you’re going to off road, worry about function, not flashy accessories.

otherwise, OP, you’re on point. ??

 

[TNcoupe]

My recommendation for beginners.

Never go wheeling alone
Stay on designated routes
Always pick up your trash.
Lots of Throttle plus hopping = broken things.
Tire puncture repair kit & a compressor = gold
Don’t be an asshole.

https://staythetrail.org/

These are the most important things about off roading.

 

[tlubull]

How do you feel about 100% stock 2d badlands? Need 35s?

 

[talbot]

Thanks for taking the time to write up this intro
I’m one of the newbs, reading lots here and looking forward to starting on light trails and going from there
it will be a while till get there, but totally looking forward to it

 

[HoosierDaddy]

How do you feel about 100% stock 2d badlands? Need 35s?

My constant qoute here is always( if you're new to offroading)....you'd be amazed how far 33's and open diffs can take you.

A Badlands on 33's would be probably the consumate "work and play" rig. The driveline is fantastic, but I have issues with the rest of the amenities vs price. My favorite rig right now ....FOR ME .... is the BaseSquatch. The value is awesome for what you're getting.

 

[tlubull]

My constant qoute here is always( if you're new to offroading)....you'd be amazed how far 33's and open diffs can take you.

A Badlands on 33's would be probably the consumate "work and play" rig. The driveline is fantastic, but I have issues with the rest of the amenities vs price. My favorite rig right now ....FOR ME .... is the BaseSquatch. The value is awesome for what you're getting.

I just want the washdown AND 210s. Which is cheaper in the BL. If I could get a rubber floor in the base, I'd choose that most days. (In fact I did yesterday)...

 

[vrewald14]

That first picture doesn't even look real!

*Some modification necessary

 

[Silver&Black_Bronco]

My constant qoute here is always( if you're new to offroading)....you'd be amazed how far 33's and open diffs can take you.

A Badlands on 33's would be probably the consumate "work and play" rig. The driveline is fantastic, but I have issues with the rest of the amenities vs price. My favorite rig right now ....FOR ME .... is the BaseSquatch. The value is awesome for what you're getting.

Could not have said it better myself!

HoosierDaddy, you complete me.

 

[tlubull]

This is the hard part as the unsquatched BD is right in the middle of basesquatch and BL. But it has the lower end driveline which annoys me greatly. I cant get 210s without at least a 6k investment.

 

[vrewald14]

How do you feel about 100% stock 2d badlands? Need 35s?

A stock 2-door Badlands does not need 35s. It is WAY capable the way it is. You will be AMAZED what you can do with it if you've never wheeled before. Once you wear out / outgrow the 33s, easy pain-free upgrade to 35s is likely.

I would take the Badlands discussion 1 step further with a discussion on the value of this trim. I view this from 2 different perspectives:

• Wheeler who values style and creature comforts = YOU NEED A BADLANDS!
  • PERFECT rig. BEST hardware. BEST interior & exterior feature availability
• Wheeler who doesn't care so much about style and features = FORGET Badlands
  • OVER RATED - you can get approximately equivalent hardware on the BaseSquatch/BlackSquatch for less
  • IMO - a standard Badlands and a BaseSquatch have almost identical offroad capability. You will be able to go almost exactly the same places. The real world advantages of 35" tires and slight lift with Squatch will be nearly negligible on an identical trail with an experienced driver.

If you can guess my build by now:

Standard 4-door Badlands. I value creature comforts, features, and style BUT DEMAND the BEST fundamental hardware. I'm a 4-door because I'm a family man I do not care for 35s because I know I don't need them - for now. The rest of Squatch is nearly worthless to me.

 

[Gr8Hortoni]

How do you feel about 100% stock 2d badlands? Need 35s?

Like it’s a hell of a place to start. That’s the route I’m going. I plan on going up 1 size to 285/75r17, just my personal preference, but other than that I’m gonna wheel it just like that, and I’m out trail riding every other weekend. It checks all the boxes when it comes to the extras you want in an off roader - taller gears, lockers, clearance, tires, articulation and body armor. BD is a great starting point, but if you can afford that little bit more, Badlands is where it’s at.

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