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OJ_Loose

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Okay so here is my big question. I want to get my Bronco sooner rather than later. It is a 2-door, manual, Badlands. I am not getting the Sasquatch package.

1. I dont want to wait.
2. I was thinking once I use up the stock 33s, I'll get a set of aftermarket wheels and 35s.

What am I not getting by not opting for the SAS package in a 2 door badlands? Should I just wait?
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Philly

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Okay so here is my big question. I want to get my Bronco sooner rather than later. It is a 2-door, manual, Badlands. I am not getting the Sasquatch package.

1. I dont want to wait.
2. I was thinking once I use up the stock 33s, I'll get a set of aftermarket wheels and 35s.

What am I not getting by not opting for the SAS package in a 2 door badlands? Should I just wait?
Itā€™s believed there are minor suspension differences, but I wouldnā€™t worry about it too much. I think itā€™s something like like a 10mm increase in lift and decrease in articulation over stock Badlands.

You can always throw a leveling kit on a stock badlands and get more than that.
 

OJ_Loose

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Itā€™s believed there are minor suspension differences, but I wouldnā€™t worry about it too much. I think itā€™s something like like a 10mm increase in lift and decrease in articulation over stock Badlands.

You can always throw a leveling kit on a stock badlands and get more than that.
Any idea if I still get the "HOSS" suspension? Still confused by that
 

DUSTYcazOREGON

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After 6 months on this forum I can see that there are lots of potentially new off-road enthusiasts looking to get into Broncos! This is exciting and itā€™ll be great to see the 4x4 community grow in general.

I also see lots of ā€œwhatā€™s this doā€, ā€œdo I need this or thatā€ type questions, so I thought I would lend my 2 cents on my general philosophy after having been heavy into off-roading the last ~15 years or so. With my below suggestions, I will assume that you may someday want to do some serious trails - not just gravel roads and an occasional mud rut.
  1. The number one thing I want to tell you is that I believe it as FAR more advantageous to pony up as much money as possible to purchase the stoutest factory driveline that you can get in your rig - if you even remotely think you may wheel aggressively. Iā€™m talking about making sure you spend your money on things that ARENā€™T easy to change or add on in the aftermarket / used market world.
    • The prime example of this would be axles. If you think you will someday want to run 35ā€+ tires, do everything within your power to get the M210 axles. An example of this in the Jeep world would be the Dana 35 axles - which are a serious drawback when one wants to get serious about wheeling. Especially with lockers.
  2. Which brings me to my next point - lockers! The #1 single biggest improvement I made to my ā€˜79 Bronco was adding a rear Detroit-style locker. Itā€™s simply AMAZING what happens when you get all tires turning in all conditions. Therefore - I HIGHLY recommend putting down the cash for lockers. Lockers are both difficult and expensive to add aftermarket. Adding a front locker also takes you to a whole other level.
  3. Sway-bar disconnect. You NEED a sway-bar disconnect. You do NOT need the fancy-pants electronic disconnect Bronco offers as there will be aftermarket versions available cheap, but you cannot underestimate the value of this extra articulation. Adding an aftermarket version will likely be a nice intro to DIY vehicle modifications. Disconnects I think will be even more important with the Bronco due to the already lesser articulation compared to a solid front axle.
  4. MINIMIZE any lift that you add. Itā€™s amazing how much fun you can have on a small lift and 35ā€ tires. You likely do not need >2in of lift in this Bronco to keep you happy and entertained for a LONG time. Honestly, I would recommend stock Badlands height and no lift for as long as possible. The primary reason for this is keeping your center of gravity as low as possible. High CGs equate to bad off-road handling. Good driving skills overcome lack of lift in many situations.
  5. You do NOT NEED BEADLOCKS! I regularly run 12psi in the rear, and 15psi in the front. This is plenty low to get adequate deformation of the tire (see above picture). I have only had 1 problem with unseating a bead, which was due to winch operator error (I winched myself sideways when it wasn't necessary). Until you're doing expert level stuff, save your money for those lockers ;)
In summary - Iā€™m part of a Jeep Club and I CONSTANTLY see people buying expensive D44 crate axles, paying for lockers with install labor, etc., and generally speaking they always wish they would have just bought a Rubicon to begin with. It can eliminate a lot of headache if youā€™re think you might get serious. Starting with the best available hardware to begin with has a lot of advantages.

IMPORTANT CONTRIBUTIONS FROM OTHER MEMBERS (Paraphrased)
  1. Trail Etiquette @Ramble_Offroad
    1. Never go wheeling alone
    2. Stay on designated routes
    3. Always pick up your trash
    4. Tread lightly
    5. Don't be an asshole
    6. Pay it forward
    7. Leave it better than you found it
    8. https://staythetrail.org/
  2. Wheeling Advice @Ramble_Offroad @Bronco
    1. Too much throttle + hopping = broken shit
    2. Join a local club. They will have access to private wheeling ground you won't. Also a great deal of experienced people.
  3. Gear advice @Ramble_Offroad @Gr8Hortoni @Blksn955.o
    • You NEED a first aid kit. It can be simple.
    • Tire puncture repair kit & air compressor = gold
      • Great way to pick up 4x4 chicks err I mean friends
    • LOCKERS BEFORE LIGHTBARS!!!
      • When the rubber meats the road, ONLY functionality matters.
    • A blanket - girls love them and so do you
    • Roll of toilet paper. Definitely necessary - keep a full roll in a plastic bag. Leaves or a sacrificial sock are your alternative...
MIOBI (Make It Or Break It) - Knoxville, IA (private owned park)
IMG_4197.JPG


Strike Ravine - Moab, UT
StrikeRavine3.jpg


Iron Range - Gilbert, MN (Public DNR run park)
DSCN1073.JPG
Excellent information. Thank you.
 

Philly

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Any idea if I still get the "HOSS" suspension? Still confused by that
Yes. That's standard on Badlands, Wildtrak and First Edition Broncos, as well as all Sasquatch Package equipped Broncos.
 

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OJ_Loose

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Yes. That's standard on Badlands, Wildtrak and First Edition Broncos, as well as all Sasquatch Package equipped Broncos.
Great! Looks like I will be making my on SAS package down the road!
 

WillisCā€™onnors

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Great points!

Not sure if this was mentioned (havenā€™t read through this) but know the weather. A moderate trail can become a nearly impassable trail after even a few minutes of rain/snow.
 

BLTN

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More advice:
1. Don't let ego override skill set (or equipment capabilities). Be REALISTIC when facing an obstacle/trail that you are unsure of.
2. Don't let ANYONE goad you into violating Rule #1, no matter how cute they are.
 

etmccaus86

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JesseS

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I, like many here, have been off roading for many years (got hooked as a recovery specialist in the Army in the 60's) and I learned that one of the most important factors in getting where you want to go is the ability and experience of the driver.
You can have the fanciest rig on the trail but still break it or get it stuck without trail knowledge, like the guy who got his jeep stuck on a ridge top. Most of the people here will never do serious rock crawling, and that is fine. I have seen many drivers get in very dangerous situations simply due to bad decisions.
I live next to the Rubicon and you would not believe the number of times I have pulled rigs out of spots they should not have been in in the first place. By all means join a club, this is where you will get some great advice and experience. Everything the OP posted is great advice, and if followed will go a long way in making your off road time fun and exciting. Stay Safe....
 

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eddyarnold

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Thank you for this post! As a noob there is a lot of great advice, maybe some more advice on builds?

I know I'm not going to start out doing anything extreme in a $50k vehicle but it will be my daily and weekend toy and hope to keep for a long time... so I'm thinking the lowest I would go (4door, family) would be BD/2.3/stick/mid but the highest I would go would be BL/2.7/mid.

I get a really bad case of scope creep on my lowest BD "just adding one more thing" (M190 ugh) and going from ~$43k to ~$52k (top BL) doesn't seem too crazy of a jump for all the stuff you get.... but I am always asking myself it's really worth it.

So let me hear some opinions! and thanks again!

EDIT: here's another question I asked on another thread that never got answered - if I end up going BD non Sas is it possible or make sense that a ratchet style locker could be added to the front if I ever get to the point I think they are needed? or does having rear electronic lockers make that not even an option in the future?
 

WillisCā€™onnors

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Thank you for this post! As a noob there is a lot of great advice, maybe some more advice on builds?

I know I'm not going to start out doing anything extreme in a $50k vehicle but it will be my daily and weekend toy and hope to keep for a long time... so I'm thinking the lowest I would go (4door, family) would be BD/2.3/stick/mid but the highest I would go would be BL/2.7/mid.

I get a really bad case of scope creep on my lowest BD "just adding one more thing" (M190 ugh) and going from ~$43k to ~$52k (top BL) doesn't seem too crazy of a jump for all the stuff you get.... but I am always asking myself it's really worth it.

So let me hear some opinions! and thanks again!

EDIT: here's another question I asked on another thread that never got answered - if I end up going BD non Sas is it possible or make sense that a ratchet style locker could be added to the front if I ever get to the point I think they are needed? or does having rear electronic lockers make that not even an option in the future?
Traditional 4x4 system and a rear locker will get you pretty far into the boonies (BD). Depends on what you want to do. Over-landing, exploring and camping, basic black Diamond should be plenty*. With a skilled driver, could be a decent crawler too.
 

jaruss01

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@vrewald14 Do you think the stock axles will suffice on an OBX with 57 lb 33" tires? Assuming i get the lower gearing option at 4.27.
 

srotier

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BD/2.3/stick/mid but the highest I would go would be BL/2.7/mid.
I fell in lust with the capability of the BD when it was released. I'm new to the off-roading community as well and felt that rear lockers only could get me well past the places I actually want to go.

Then B&P came out and my hopes and dreams were crushed when I found out that if I wanted the MT, that meant I couldn't also have the Mid package. So I did just what Ford wanted me to do and moved up to the BL trim. Not complaining about the change, I just had to re-evaluate things that I owned and started selling stuff I never really use anymore anyway.

That started an account where I squirrel away any and every extra penny I come across. A non-Sas BL MT with Mid was my dream rig from the start, I was willing to sacrifice some capability for a lower cost at first. Now I'm comfortable with knowing I will have every ounce of capability I will ever need and not have any feelings of "I wish I had this or that" when I finally get the keys!
 
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vrewald14

vrewald14

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@vrewald14 Do you think the stock axles will suffice on an OBX with 57 lb 33" tires? Assuming i get the lower gearing option at 4.27.
Yes! Especially while not having lockers. The stock axles on any of these Broncos will handle 33s quite nicely while unlocked.

If adding lockers slightly more caution should be used but with good driving technique should not be a concern.

You also raise a good point about gearing. Lower gears = better offroad. If highest MPG and cruising RPM are not super critical to you, I highly recommend lower gearing.
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