A Ford Duratec engine is essentially a Mazda MZR engine which has a closed deck Al block, iron liners, forged steel crankshaft, powder metal rods.Laminar, you are exactly correct. The 2.3 EcoBoost and the 2.3 Duratec are virtually identical short blocks. The reason that the Duratec, as well as the "turbo Duratec" EcoBoost almost always spin rod #3 is that the oil galleys are incorrectly designed and tend not to properly lubricate the entire engine.
Thank you for providing a couple of examples of the problem you're referencing. The second one seems to be more than just the thrown bearing you were originally referencing. There seems to be discussion of a blown head gasket in addition to the possibly thrown bearing.You are correct; the burden of proof is on me. I can't be arsed to provide a ton of evidence, but here are a few examples of what I'm talking about..
Examples of low-mileage failures:
https://www.ecoboostmustang.org/forum/issues-problems/7729-spun-rod-bearing.html
https://www.ecoboostmustang.org/for...y-blew-head-gasket-my-15-eco-stang-31k-2.html
So here's where I'm going to admit that I'm not a car guy, so I'm hardly an expert on these things. I do know that there's a difference between bhp and whp (but not how much), and I'm kind of OK at Googling stuff. I found this article, which indicates that wheel horsepower is usually "around" 15% less than brake horsepower.Here's an example of the power discrepancy I mentioned -- keep in mind that this is measuring RWHP and Ford measures BHP which will account for some but not all of the discrepancy:
-- That's about 287BHP assuming the dyno is properly calibrated and the car is running a 6r80 transmission. 92% of rated HP, which is actually pretty impressively high compared to some that I've seen.
-- About 255BHP The uploader said his dyno "wasn't putting out the right numbers" but also said it was correct on everything else he ran that day. 82% of rated HP is a bit lower than usual. Most that I've seen dyno out somewhere between the two videos shown.
That's a perfectly legitimate filter to use for making personal decisions, but it's not necessarily a great filter to use for making broad statements.That's about all the evidence I can be bothered to provide and it's obviously anecdotal. Since I'm just here to have a conversation and not a debate, that's the extent of my interest in "proving" what I gave as personal observations. Since most of my opinions are formed based on my own experience doing mechanical work, my views will necessarily be filtered through that experience.
Again, thank you for providing some evidence to back up your claims. I was never looking to change your mind or anyone else's. I just wanted more information about a new-to-me problem of an engine I've considered getting, whether it's in a Bronco or a Ranger. I'm willing to let it go at this point.I have enjoyed our conversation to this point, but the employment of debate tactics, correct though they may be, has somewhat tempered my interest in continuing the conversation which I did not intend to be an argument. My desire to debate you further is approximately the same as my desire to rush out and buy a 2.3 EcoBoost. Heck, the ol' attention deficit is kicking in and I'm getting kinda bored of this topic altogether
Dynos are only a tool. Every dyno reads different and can be setup to read different by the operator. You should really only compare dyno readings from the same dyno on the same day. Temperature and humidity play a big part in how much power you can make. As well as if the car was heat soaked, or had cold air blowing in the intake. You'll make way more power at 0 ft elevation and cold outside than if you 5,000 ft up and it's 100.So here's where I'm going to admit that I'm not a car guy, so I'm hardly an expert on these things. I do know that there's a difference between bhp and whp (but not how much), and I'm kind of OK at Googling stuff. I found this article, which indicates that wheel horsepower is usually "around" 15% less than brake horsepower.
It seems to me that the 92% figure from the first video is excellent if the "15% less" from the article is a reliable figure, and the 82% figure from the second video, while disappointing, is not necessarily outside of the margin of error (the article doesn't give a margin of error, but 18% less is not that much more than 15% less, so I'm going with it).
The real disappointment to me, then, would be the large difference between two identical vehicles.
I've heard the opposite about the 10 speed transmissions. They're allegedly rock solid and reliable, at least according to the folks over on the Ranger5G forums, although I have seen complaints that they hunt for gears a lot.Im still on the fence as to the 2.3/2.7. I really want a manual so that means a 2.3 but I would also like the power of the 2.7 but my main issue is I heard the 10sp autos arent good transmissions. Clunky shifting etc. A guy that works with me has a 2019 F150 with it and it is honestly terrible to drive. If I had more confidence in the auto I would go that route and get the 2.7. Also curious what a tune and DP would do to the 2.3 power wise? Hmm....Ill probably go 2.3 and just get as much power as I can out of it.
Im more talking about shifting smoothly, gear hunting etc. Not so much about reliability. The guy I work with has it in his 2019 F150 but he has a V8 so maybe its different?I've heard the opposite about the 10 speed transmissions. They're allegedly rock solid and reliable, at least according to the folks over on the Ranger5G forums, although I have seen complaints that they hunt for gears a lot.
Like I said, I have heard that they hunt gears, but the guys over on the Ranger forum seem to like the 10-speed other than that. It's mated to a 2.3L EcoBoost in the Ranger, so maybe it's smoother there? Or maybe they just don't care that it shifts a little hard? I'm not sure.Im more talking about shifting smoothly, gear hunting etc. Not so much about reliability. The guy I work with has it in his 2019 F150 but he has a V8 so maybe its different?