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North7

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Secondly, I would have assumed the addition of the tow package might have changed the rear height numbers.
A while ago @LEGEND posted that there was some observed on the floor, although he had strong feelings about using that specific term. Unfortunately he hasn't elaborated since then. It's looking more and more like there isn't any, which I suppose shouldn't be too surprised given the max tongue weight of 350lbs. Like all things, we'll see in the end once they start rolling.
Great point, the data was there for the High Ride, I've updated Table 5 with "Rake", to show that the Bronco rear is 0.16" higher than the front, again, this is for the High Ride but it may be the same with lower trims. This is why I had to calculate a mid-point average for lift due to this difference, again, shown in Table 5.
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DebbieEF

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We can finally answer the ongoing Bronco question, "how much lift" does each model have compared to the others?

Now that we have the Ford General Specifications document, Bilstein Coilover Information and Ford Part Number information we can finally get a clear and complete picture on what the stock Bronco lift dimensions are and what is possible to lift each trim level. In this discussion the goal is always to maintain maximum functionality of your Bronco for off-road use. If you want to do something for looks only, you may be able to bend the rules a little and do a budget lift, but you want to be cautious of tire rub, binding, CV joints and steering component damage or other unintended consequences.

Vaughn Gittin Jr. said something to the effect in his Hells Revenge interview video, to put 37" tires on the Sasquatch you need to go up 2 inches and out 2 inches. Going out 2 inches most likely will require new control arms. On the other hand, Ryan of 4WP, only recommended new control arms when doing a lift 3 inches or higher. Further, he prefers a +35 wheel offset to maintain the ideal scrub radius to minimize wear on components. While this thread cannot possibly address every variable, these are general guidelines that each manufacture will handle differently, depending on the lift kits they offer.

Each of the below tables can be read separately to understand the information or points made within that table. Some data is repeated in other tables to provide clarity or present the information in a different way to make it understandable to the most number of people. This thread is intended to help newbies and experienced alike, with those more knowledgeable forum members helping others learn the ropes of suspension modifications and lift. Please post any corrections or clarifications you feel are needed.

Thank you to @ZackDanger, @Razorbak86 for their knowledge shared and for some of our unnamed friends of the forum.

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Fantastic information! Thank you @North7, @ZackDanger, @Razorbak86!
 

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ZackDanger

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Really good info. Trying to figure out best way to upgrade a Black Diamond and Outer Banks to 33”s.
IMHO:

Cheapest and easiest? - Budget Boost / Spacers / Pucks (whatever you want to call it)

Most capable but budget friendly? - Someone's BL takeoffs.
 
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North7

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Really good info. Trying to figure out best way to upgrade a Black Diamond and Outer Banks to 33”s.
You will need a minimum spacer lift of 0.67", most likely the aftermarket companies will have 3/4" or 1" spacers available that will work.

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North7

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KING KONG ?????
I wondered how long it would take for someone to catch that. It's author's privilege to name the Bronco on 37" tires as King Kong since its never been addressed before. I'm sure there will be many creative badges available. :p
 

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I’m potentially interested in 37s on a SAS Badlands… but won’t be in a rush until my stock 35s are done.

I think it will likely take some time anyway for the ideal approach to surface on how to fit 37s. Wheel offsets and particular tire selection can dictate what lift is required which will potentially impact shocks, control arms, and CV joints. It’s not very straight-forward and will require some trial and error even by the experts.

Bottom line is this whole thread underscores how fortunate we are to have 35s as a factory option.
 

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Really good info. Trying to figure out best way to upgrade a Black Diamond and Outer Banks to 33”s.
The path I would take would be to look hard for Sasquatch take-offs. You would get a great suspension with enough lift for 35s if you ever decide to go that route. You can probably get a great deal as I would think they will be readily available as guys build their Broncos for 37s....
 

swooshdave

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I learned a ton about IFS and Ryan from 4WP, in both his video(s) and his conversations here, really opened my eyes to some things.

I come from the jeep side where a "budget lift" is a regular and appropriate things.... with a budget lift you basically just put some spacers on top of the suspension to give you some quick increased clearance for larger tires.

The problem is that with an IFS, when you add lift in that way, without taking other things into account, you reach the limits of the front axles and CV joint angles.

The weird thing is that you can "safely" budget lift the lower trims but not the upper trims...

Ford Bronco The Definitive Guide to 2021+ Bronco Ride & Lift Heights with Wheel & Tire Sizes tgy6


Ryan was able to shed some light on something that didn't make intuitive sense to me at first but it an important point:

On the Base-OB the shocks themselves don't have a very large range of motion. On the yellow bilsteins (BL and Sas), the travel is so much greater and you're already lifted, that they basically already allow for near maximum droop as far as the CVs are concerned.

What that means is that counterintuitively, it's easier to "cheaply" lift a lower trim Bronco than an upper trim....

The lower trim shocks don't allow the wheels to drop enough to create a problem if you add some spacers to raise the vehicle, so you can get a base up to squatch height pretty easy with a budget boost. On the upper trims if you add more lift with spacers the wheels can drop so far that you bind the axles and can create serious problems.

Ryan's point was that if you want to eventually get to a 3" lift for 37s... even if it's only a small increase over your BL or Sas height, you're already at the end of the CV capability. Starting with Sas doesn't mean you get to save money by just adding cheap spacers for the 37" clearance, you have to swap out coilovers and UCA anyway... So, if your plan is 37s, it may make more sense to *not* sas from the factory since you're going to have to replace those components anyway.

Granted, the Bilsteins, with their longer range of travel mean better articulation off road, but if your goal is to just lift your Bronco fast and cheap, it could potentially make more sense to go with a lower trim and add spacers.

(Of course, if you want to lift your BL or Sas, and aren't worried about damage that may occur if you were to hang one of your front wheels in the air... a spacer may be worth it to you... or if you're worried about damage but don't mind limiting droop, you could put limiter straps in or something... I'm sure we'll see plenty of different solutions once Broncos become more prolific.)

The more I think about this more clear (I think) things become to me.

Basically, here's the breakdown as I see it:

- If all you want is lift to clear 35" on the street, it's almost certainly cheaper to get a Base-OB and add a budget boost.
- If you want maximum off-road capability for 33-35" it's probably cheaper to Sas.
- If you want maximum off-road capability for 37" it's cheaper to go base and upgrade coilovers and UCA.


And here's the link to the video where Ryan very quickly talks about how a "level lift" (budget boost / spacer) wont work because of CV angles on the "Yellow Bilstein" (BL, SAS) equipped Broncos:

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...-37”-tires-on-2021-bronco-4wp-explains.16623/
What you aren't taking into account is the gearing you get with the Squatch. Do you want to try to turn 37" tires with a base gearing? I mean you can, but do you want to?
 

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What you aren't taking into account is the gearing you get with the Squatch. Do you want to try to turn 37" tires with a base gearing? I mean you can, but do you want to?
I'm also not taking into account the heavier duty front diff, or the wider fender flares, or the fact that you'd have to buy wheels and tires, or or or or.

I'm just addressing the topic of this thread. Many words have been spilled over whether the Sasquatch package is "worth it" in general.
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