UPDATED AGAIN: Blackstone Laboratories Oil Report - 2.3L Engine @ 2500, 5000, 10,000 and 15,000 miles (now using Motul 5w30)

[KyleQ]

Which OEM do you work for? What test data are you basing this on?

Rarely do I blindly appeal to authority, but in this case the manufacturer knows EVERYTHING about the engine's metallurgy and construction, they have tens or even hundreds of thousands of hours of real-world testing and data, and they are the absolutely on the hook for the engine's condition through the warranty period.

The only people I see saying "yeah beat on it to break it in" are the people that are just repeating some BS they read on the internet or they're like "bro I've built 5 engines and I beat on them and they're all great" with absolutely no data on longevity through 60,000+ miles. And I'm sure you can find some racing engine builders that recommend a harsh break in cycle but again, they're not on the hook for 60,000 miles of warranty - the engines they build live a much different life with far fewer miles and hours of life than a manufactured, oem-spec, warrantied, emission-controlled passenger vehicle engine.

I don't work for an OEM and I don't need test data to know that the manufactures beak in procedure is soft and is rarely followed to a T. You do you, I'll do me - babying an engine after the first few heat cycles is a waste of time with a roller valvetrain IMHO. Our fuel is junk, the emissions systems actively try to kill the engine and the manufactures are on the hook for everything until the date/mileages is passed; of course they are going to want you to drive the thing like a grandma.

I DID wait until 1k miles before I towed with my 19' 6.7 SuperDuty, so there is that. I'm not totally nuts. it's my wife's truck, but I'll be driving it too. I'll do my best to get a blackstone report @1k and we'll compare.

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[Efthreeoh]

Fuel in the oil is from the rings not seating and the engine not getting hot enough to vaporize the fuel. A can isn’t going to do anything for either of those conditions.

Rings not yet seated.

 

[jlj4660]

Oil analysis are viewed with trends in mind. The first oil analysis does you very little good unless you have a catastrophic failure. If you continue to do oil analysis the future ones will help to follow trends and look for changes

 

[Efthreeoh]

I've never once done a Blackstone analysis. Modern oils in modern engines do not need Jiffy Lube oil change schedules. Automotive engineers and manufacturers do not have a conspiracy against their customers and make up service schedules that shorten the life of a new car.

Just a pet peeve...

 

[BroBronco]

Thanks for sharing this data.

It appears best to change oil every 2-3K miles based on the report. Standard. I usually change mine every 1-2K miles not bc im OCD but bc I base my oil changes more on time vs distance. On average it takes me about half a year or more to add 2K miles on my rig and outside temps here range from 30s-40s in winter (not bad) on up to between 100-125+ for 4-6 months straight in Spring/Summer. Just my pref and its kept all my engines running perfect over 20 years. *Along with proper break in period and quality fuel that burns better/cleaner.

I usually change first oil around 1K miles mainly to clear out the factory oil and tiny metal deposits released during break in. My dealer said 5K miles and in my head I still heard 1K miles for first oil change lol. Until gas powered cars go away I will not bend haha.

Its always smart to do 2 things when breaking in your new engine. Go easy for the first 1000 miles AND drive it like you normally would in shorter bursts for first 1K miles + Briefly give it hell every other ride but no red line!

Make sure that engines knows in the beginning whats it job will be moving forward or otherwise it will own you lol. This will fix all your seating problems etc.

Only other thing to keep engine healthy, unreleated to this post, is a catch can. Btw "can" another member pls post link where I can buy a catch can for my 2.3? Again, I know it wont fix the break in chemistry, just want to add it to my bronco bin of aftermarket parts.

 

[AK SNO RIDER]

I find this whole thing very interesting. I did not know this was an available service, and the price seems great. More data and much cheaper than testing well water in my experience.

I’ve had a GTI with a failed motor at 38,000 miles and a Land Rover than would “make oil” intermittently. I wonder if having this info longitudinally would have given hints of issues developing. May try this myself, wonder if there is an option in the PNW.

You can use Blackstone nationwide. I live in Alaska and use them regularly. You request sample kits online and they send them to you for free. You hang on to them until you pull a sample, then pop it in the mail in its pre-paid container. You can even have a credit card on file with them so you don't have to send payment each time.

 

[pakrat]

Check on the Ranger forums if you want detailed wear info on the 2.3 oil analysis. The more engines sampled through varying amounts of use give Blackstone the averages to accurately comment on a specific engine.

I've sampled all of my vehicles (Fords, GMCs and Toyotas) through the years with Blackstone and its helped me steer away from certain products and use others. For example, I won't ever use a K&N air filter again based on the contaminants found in the analysis. On two different vehicles the high level of several contaminants disappeared when I replaced the K&N for a good ol Napa Gold or similar. Same oil, same oil change intervals, same everything except the K&N air filter.

 

[josedirte]

Don't think that oil evaluation on factory break in oil is a fair assessment of engine function especially after 2500 miles. Personally would have run hard for 5000 miles on break in oil before first oil change. Always been a tough luv kinda guy.

 

[DEC]

Personally, this is way too early for a test like this. It wont do much other than putting your head in a tail spin about nothing.
They are cool tests and I use them too, but again, too early IMO.

 

[Sparkherd]

Some of the comments here are pretty useless.

Ahyep!

 

[Laminar]

I don't work for an OEM and I don't need test data

Thanks, that's what I was looking for!

 

[bytheway]

2.7L catch can kit:

https://juggernautpower.com/collections/bronco-catch-cans

Mishimoto just posted a blog yesterday about testing their catch cans on the 2.7L
https://www.mishimoto.com/engineering/2021/09/2021-ford-bronco-27-catch-can-prototype/

 

[Lazarus327]

You guys take OCD to a new level

This seems to be a common trait for B6G members... (except for me of course! )

 

[Beachin 74]

I've found that ecoboost motors are usually a little high in fuel dilution numbers anyway.
The one thing I would keep an eye on (especially if your dealer uses "bulk oil") is the viscosity number. The dealer where I bought my F-150 3.5 eco couldn't get 5w-30 in there no matter how many times they tried.
And no it is never too early to send out a sample, That why it's called a "Baseline".

 

[redone17]

I find this whole thing very interesting. I did not know this was an available service, and the price seems great. More data and much cheaper than testing well water in my experience.

I’ve had a GTI with a failed motor at 38,000 miles and a Land Rover than would “make oil” intermittently. I wonder if having this info longitudinally would have given hints of issues developing. May try this myself, wonder if there is an option in the PNW.

They offer the kits for free. You mail it in via USPS.

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