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Lonestar777

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I did my first oil change today @ ~1200 miles. I installed the Ronin plug so I'm excited at how easy these should be from now on!
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buzpro

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Did my first oil change at about 1600 miles today. Installed the Ronin plug. - I got 6.5 quartz of oil out of the engine. I had the vehicle tilted towards the passenger side.

Replaced the oil with Full Synthetic NOT the Blend.
 

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Did my first oil change at about 1600 miles today. Installed the Ronin plug. - I got 6.5 quartz of oil out of the engine. I had the vehicle tilted towards the passenger side.

Replaced the oil with Full Synthetic NOT the Blend.
How much oil did you get back in it? 6 or 7 quarts?
 

buzpro

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How much oil did you get back in it? 6 or 7 quarts?
i got 6.5 qtz out so i put 6.5 qtz in .... ran the engine, checked the dip stick and it looks at a hair under max.

the only thing was the little o-ring that goes on the oil filter stem .... it seems like it's a little thinner in the o-ring wall and it had a little play in it and .... was a little looser than the factory o-ring .... I dont know if i stretched it too much when i put it on
 

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I appreciate all the comments. Good ideas.

My catch pan is a 5 gallon bucket cut in half. I have a couple cars that need me to lift the bucket up to the drain hole until the pressure lowers. Bucket makes it easy. Will probably keep Ford drain plug and use my catch bucket.
 

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CORRECTION to my last post and ALARMING

I guesstimated my initial oil withdrawn from the engine so this morning I decided to measure it the best I could ... I poured all of the oil i had extracted into an extraction pump i use for different things around my home.

look at these pictures and tell me if you're not fkng shocked.

Ford Bronco 2.7L Oil Change Tips + Replacement Drain Plugs IMG-8020


Ford Bronco 2.7L Oil Change Tips + Replacement Drain Plugs IMG-8021


there is more than 7.5 Liters of oil in there .... about 7.93 Quarts !!!!!

this means that either the Dealership or the Factory overfilled the OIL and I have been driving around for 1600 plus miles with ECXCESS ENGINE OIL !!!!

WTF!!!!
 
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Lake Tahoe Traveler

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On my original factory fill my oil was definitely overfilled too!!!

There is no way I would trust anyone/dealership to do this but me…. I guarantee they will overfill it too!!!

It’s hard to read the dip stick….

side note…Make sure you check your oil hot and after driving it give it plenty of time to drain back to the pan.

Yes… it takes nothing to overfill the oil on a 2.7… expect to drain some out as part of your oil change procedure.

As I recall it took around 6.3 qts to fill
No way could it ever take 7 qts!!

hope this helps
 
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Blueoval

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Did my first oil change at about 1600 miles today. Installed the Ronin plug. - I got 6.5 quartz of oil out of the engine. I had the vehicle tilted towards the passenger side.

Replaced the oil with Full Synthetic NOT the Blend.
I have 5 k on my engine and installed the ronin valve at 1k. My first change with the ronin at 4K was so easy on my 2.7 badlands.

I did not have to pull the skid plate or lift the vehicle. I am able to get the tool that threads in to open the ronin valve and attached a hose to it. I used a 6qt oil dispenser (https://www.jegs.com/i/Lisle-Tools/616/19732/10002/-1) to pour 6 quarts into. This way I was able to drain the oil straight into the empty oil containers. I got 6.5 out and the remainder went into my old oil change pan that was there as a backup the whole time. I did Jack up the vehicle while draining from the drivers side to get more oil out. I am not sure if that was needed or not.

The valve itself is expensive but very high quality. It made minor adjustments easy after I overfilled by a little less than half a quart.

results will vary with being able to get under the vehicle and reach the valve if you are a bigger person. Once I knew the angle I can reach in there with no problem, but I’m a reasonably fit person.
 

4wJive

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Updated 10/23: Now that I’ve fooled with this for the last few days I wanted to share some tips to hopefully save you the time that I’ve wasted changing the oil on my 2.7L for the first time. I thought I was prepared for everything but this engine is really different compared to others I’ve owned as far as the oil change and check procedure. If you’ve owned one before I’m sure this is obvious, but many of us are first time Ford owners so the eco boost is a new learning process.

First off reference this bulletin from right after the 2.7L came out in 2015:



The manual calls for 7 quarts. I was prepared to not use all of it due to previous reports. I bought 7 anyway just in case. I knew I needed to let it drain extra time and wait to check the oil level. But that still didn’t help me do it correctly.

First mistake: I didn’t open the filter housing before draining the oil. I made sure to wait for drainback prior to opening the plug, but apparently you need to do the filter first to allow the oil to drain from that area. Perhaps this contributed to my later issue.

Second mistake: After waiting 20-30 min for the pan to drain, I closed everything up and added 6 quarts. I waited 20 more min for the oil to reach the pan. (This is not a quick process when done correctly, more reason not to use a quick lane service.) I checked the dipstick and it was about halfway between the dots. Half quart low right? So I add a half quart. That’s a total of 6.5qts on a 7qt capacity engine. Figured I was safe and went about my business.

Fast forward a couple days and I check the level after it had been sitting in the parking lot at work all day. Had to check it about 3 times because the oil was still clean and the dipstick is different than I’m used to. It was definitely overfull. This is where I discovered the 2nd mistake that I didn’t realize I had made at the time. There is a crosshatched area on the dipstick and the normal “add” and ”full” dots. Well it turns out the top of the crosshatch is what you’re aiming for. The top dot is the “max” level.

DC8F1336-94D3-4020-80E7-A33202C450C8.jpeg


So when I thought I was a half quart short while filling, it was probably good or already over even though I added less than engine capacity.

As you can see here if you go much past the top dot and near the twist in the dipstick, you’re almost completely filling the pan. This could cause the oil to foam and cause PCV issues and push oil past places you don’t want it to go. Would it be fine? Maybe, but long term I wouldn’t want to deal with an engine overfilled on oil.

A9DCC6BD-1664-4375-B7B3-4A2F68395639.png


So I drained oil back out this evening until it reached proper level. I don’t have an extractor so I slowly did it from the crappy yellow plug. Would have been much easier with one of the below replacement plugs that I plan to swap out in 4700 more miles. Hope this helps.

Original post:
I've been looking for a replacement for the plastic drain plug on the 2.7L oil pan. Wanted to share my findings in case others are looking as well.

RONIN
1634306246666.png


https://roninfactory.com/products/ford-f150-raptor-oil-drain-ronin-factory
$80 - free shipping
Billet aluminum
Single o-ring
Magnet
Barbed for Drain Tube

UPR
1634306279033.png

https://www.uprproducts.com/upr-ford-easy-oil-drain-valve-for-mustang-f150-raptor-edge-explorer/
$60 + shipping
Billet aluminum
Double o-ring
Magnet
Barbed for Drain Tube

Also another version with no drain valve, just a replacement plug for $50
https://www.uprproducts.com/upr-ford-easy-oil-drain-plug-for-mustang-f150-raptor-edge-explorer/
1634306444167.png


FEMCO
1634306526544.png


https://www.femco.com/product/ford-oil-plug/
$50 + shipping
Plastic
Single O ring
Magnet
barbed for Drain Tube

FUMOTO
1634306800008.png


https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...-drain-valve-for-fords-plastic-oil-pan.17923/
In Beta Testing - May be available next year
Unknown cost
Plastic
Single O ring
Multi-piece design allows you to drain at different angles

DORMAN
1634308369982.png


https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-133445-097-826hpcd.aspx
$10 + shipping on RockAuto
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=12646765&jsn=1481&jsn=1481
OEM replacement but features a downward drain hole that loosens with a flathead screwdriver
Plastic
Single O ring
No magn
Updated with my findings after the fact. Has anyone managed to get 7 quarts out of their 2.7? Do you have to jack it u


Holy Crap, I never thought the subject of oil changing could be made so complicated. Ford, cant we just have a traditional metal oil pan and call it good? Does a aftermarket metal oil pan even exist? If they did it for weight saving reasons, it seems silly with the added weight of the wheels alone, and lights, and winch……………………etc, etc. they didn’t need the re-engineer the ‘oil pan’😖
If Ford had an aftermarket ‘accessory metal oil pan’, that would be my first upgrade!
 

Toecutter

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i am due for my first oil change in 100 miles, after seeing how the plug is on thes 2.7 eoboost engines and knowing it will overflow my oil drain pan or just splash right out of it all over the floor i purchased one of the ronin plugs a week ago, it looks to be very high quality i wanted to go for one with no plastic components, its all aluminum
 

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Been doing oil changes since a kid, never thought it would be this detailed and exact steps need to be followed to get it right. Nice write up OP. Looks like if you are willing and able, then do it yourself and get it done right.
No one‘s done it right yet, Oil change on the 2.7 second generation Nanu Nanu bronco engine is still a mystery when it comes to oil service
 

Razorback

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For those that are interested, Ronin is on Amazon Prime. Free same day delivery plus 5% cash back using Prime Rewards Visa. I noticed on Ronin's website, ordering directly has an 11/24 delivery time frame....
 

Dom

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I have 5 k on my engine and installed the ronin valve at 1k. My first change with the ronin at 4K was so easy on my 2.7 badlands.

I did not have to pull the skid plate or lift the vehicle. I am able to get the tool that threads in to open the ronin valve and attached a hose to it. I used a 6qt oil dispenser (https://www.jegs.com/i/Lisle-Tools/616/19732/10002/-1) to pour 6 quarts into. This way I was able to drain the oil straight into the empty oil containers. I got 6.5 out and the remainder went into my old oil change pan that was there as a backup the whole time. I did Jack up the vehicle while draining from the drivers side to get more oil out. I am not sure if that was needed or not.

The valve itself is expensive but very high quality. It made minor adjustments easy after I overfilled by a little less than half a quart.

results will vary with being able to get under the vehicle and reach the valve if you are a bigger person. Once I knew the angle I can reach in there with no problem, but I’m a reasonably fit person.
So, for the Ronin plug, you remove the gold cap and thread in a drain nipple? Then the oil flows out? Did you bother to take the whole drain plug out to clean off the magnet? What ID tubing did you attach to the nipple?
 
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couple of things i dont know:

1st - what do these magnets do? since the engine is made of Aluminum?

2nd- are these drain valves a one time install? don't you need to take them out and replace the O-rings on them?
The (static, non-friction) block may be non-ferrous aluminum, but the moving parts which rub, create friction and will produce metallic shards are generally steel. If an aluminum block starts falling, you’ll have bigger problems than the typical wear and tear of cranks and cams rubbing on bearings.
 

broncoepic

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I recently performed an oil change on my 2.7L and managed to take out/drain close to 6 and 3/4 quarts of oil. The oil level readings on my dipstick has always been consistently in the nominal mark ("B") so I do not believe it was overfilled from factory. I put ~6 and 3/4 of quarts back in and the dipstick indicates that my oil level is nominal.
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