I did my first oil change today @ ~1200 miles. I installed the Ronin plug so I'm excited at how easy these should be from now on!
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How much oil did you get back in it? 6 or 7 quarts?Did my first oil change at about 1600 miles today. Installed the Ronin plug. - I got 6.5 quartz of oil out of the engine. I had the vehicle tilted towards the passenger side.
Replaced the oil with Full Synthetic NOT the Blend.
i got 6.5 qtz out so i put 6.5 qtz in .... ran the engine, checked the dip stick and it looks at a hair under max.How much oil did you get back in it? 6 or 7 quarts?
I have 5 k on my engine and installed the ronin valve at 1k. My first change with the ronin at 4K was so easy on my 2.7 badlands.Did my first oil change at about 1600 miles today. Installed the Ronin plug. - I got 6.5 quartz of oil out of the engine. I had the vehicle tilted towards the passenger side.
Replaced the oil with Full Synthetic NOT the Blend.
Updated 10/23: Now that I’ve fooled with this for the last few days I wanted to share some tips to hopefully save you the time that I’ve wasted changing the oil on my 2.7L for the first time. I thought I was prepared for everything but this engine is really different compared to others I’ve owned as far as the oil change and check procedure. If you’ve owned one before I’m sure this is obvious, but many of us are first time Ford owners so the eco boost is a new learning process.
First off reference this bulletin from right after the 2.7L came out in 2015:
The manual calls for 7 quarts. I was prepared to not use all of it due to previous reports. I bought 7 anyway just in case. I knew I needed to let it drain extra time and wait to check the oil level. But that still didn’t help me do it correctly.
First mistake: I didn’t open the filter housing before draining the oil. I made sure to wait for drainback prior to opening the plug, but apparently you need to do the filter first to allow the oil to drain from that area. Perhaps this contributed to my later issue.
Second mistake: After waiting 20-30 min for the pan to drain, I closed everything up and added 6 quarts. I waited 20 more min for the oil to reach the pan. (This is not a quick process when done correctly, more reason not to use a quick lane service.) I checked the dipstick and it was about halfway between the dots. Half quart low right? So I add a half quart. That’s a total of 6.5qts on a 7qt capacity engine. Figured I was safe and went about my business.
Fast forward a couple days and I check the level after it had been sitting in the parking lot at work all day. Had to check it about 3 times because the oil was still clean and the dipstick is different than I’m used to. It was definitely overfull. This is where I discovered the 2nd mistake that I didn’t realize I had made at the time. There is a crosshatched area on the dipstick and the normal “add” and ”full” dots. Well it turns out the top of the crosshatch is what you’re aiming for. The top dot is the “max” level.
So when I thought I was a half quart short while filling, it was probably good or already over even though I added less than engine capacity.
As you can see here if you go much past the top dot and near the twist in the dipstick, you’re almost completely filling the pan. This could cause the oil to foam and cause PCV issues and push oil past places you don’t want it to go. Would it be fine? Maybe, but long term I wouldn’t want to deal with an engine overfilled on oil.
So I drained oil back out this evening until it reached proper level. I don’t have an extractor so I slowly did it from the crappy yellow plug. Would have been much easier with one of the below replacement plugs that I plan to swap out in 4700 more miles. Hope this helps.
Original post:
I've been looking for a replacement for the plastic drain plug on the 2.7L oil pan. Wanted to share my findings in case others are looking as well.
RONIN
https://roninfactory.com/products/ford-f150-raptor-oil-drain-ronin-factory
$80 - free shipping
Billet aluminum
Single o-ring
Magnet
Barbed for Drain Tube
UPR
https://www.uprproducts.com/upr-ford-easy-oil-drain-valve-for-mustang-f150-raptor-edge-explorer/
$60 + shipping
Billet aluminum
Double o-ring
Magnet
Barbed for Drain Tube
Also another version with no drain valve, just a replacement plug for $50
https://www.uprproducts.com/upr-ford-easy-oil-drain-plug-for-mustang-f150-raptor-edge-explorer/
FEMCO
https://www.femco.com/product/ford-oil-plug/
$50 + shipping
Plastic
Single O ring
Magnet
barbed for Drain Tube
FUMOTO
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...-drain-valve-for-fords-plastic-oil-pan.17923/
In Beta Testing - May be available next year
Unknown cost
Plastic
Single O ring
Multi-piece design allows you to drain at different angles
DORMAN
https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-133445-097-826hpcd.aspx
$10 + shipping on RockAuto
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=12646765&jsn=1481&jsn=1481
OEM replacement but features a downward drain hole that loosens with a flathead screwdriver
Plastic
Single O ring
No magn
If Ford had an aftermarket ‘accessory metal oil pan’, that would be my first upgrade!Updated with my findings after the fact. Has anyone managed to get 7 quarts out of their 2.7? Do you have to jack it u
Holy Crap, I never thought the subject of oil changing could be made so complicated. Ford, cant we just have a traditional metal oil pan and call it good? Does a aftermarket metal oil pan even exist? If they did it for weight saving reasons, it seems silly with the added weight of the wheels alone, and lights, and winch……………………etc, etc. they didn’t need the re-engineer the ‘oil pan’
No one‘s done it right yet, Oil change on the 2.7 second generation Nanu Nanu bronco engine is still a mystery when it comes to oil serviceBeen doing oil changes since a kid, never thought it would be this detailed and exact steps need to be followed to get it right. Nice write up OP. Looks like if you are willing and able, then do it yourself and get it done right.
So, for the Ronin plug, you remove the gold cap and thread in a drain nipple? Then the oil flows out? Did you bother to take the whole drain plug out to clean off the magnet? What ID tubing did you attach to the nipple?I have 5 k on my engine and installed the ronin valve at 1k. My first change with the ronin at 4K was so easy on my 2.7 badlands.
I did not have to pull the skid plate or lift the vehicle. I am able to get the tool that threads in to open the ronin valve and attached a hose to it. I used a 6qt oil dispenser (https://www.jegs.com/i/Lisle-Tools/616/19732/10002/-1) to pour 6 quarts into. This way I was able to drain the oil straight into the empty oil containers. I got 6.5 out and the remainder went into my old oil change pan that was there as a backup the whole time. I did Jack up the vehicle while draining from the drivers side to get more oil out. I am not sure if that was needed or not.
The valve itself is expensive but very high quality. It made minor adjustments easy after I overfilled by a little less than half a quart.
results will vary with being able to get under the vehicle and reach the valve if you are a bigger person. Once I knew the angle I can reach in there with no problem, but I’m a reasonably fit person.
The (static, non-friction) block may be non-ferrous aluminum, but the moving parts which rub, create friction and will produce metallic shards are generally steel. If an aluminum block starts falling, you’ll have bigger problems than the typical wear and tear of cranks and cams rubbing on bearings.couple of things i dont know:
1st - what do these magnets do? since the engine is made of Aluminum?
2nd- are these drain valves a one time install? don't you need to take them out and replace the O-rings on them?