They did reply. It is required as trailer lights can add different loads to the circuit, so the extra power is a must.
Got mine all set up. The biggest pain was my help dropped the bumper while removing it to install the hitch itself. When it dropped, it broke the park assist harness connector on one side (epoxied together for now, but it will be replaced once I can get replacement connectors. I am OCD like that).
[EDIT]
I also forgot to mention, I did a hack job. I am using the Curt kit to tap into the brake light connectors, but hacked on a Ford 4-pin pigtail so it fits into the hitch proper. Just looks better to me that way.
I think with the Ford hitch you have to drop the bumper 'cause bolts insert from the rear, Curt no because they go in from the front.
I used the Ford hitch which as others noted, the bumper has to come off (the nuts are welded on and bolts have to go in from the back).
I’m curious if this kit is LED specific. I installed it on my base and it does not work correctly. I’m getting nothing with left blinker, but right blinker activates both L and R(as if flashers were on) Let us know if your install works. If I were to do it again I’d test it before the full install. Btw I did run the constant power to batter.
Even with the factory tow package you still need the brake controller from ford accessories, it is plug and play with the bronco harness. I'm working on finding the wiring needed to run down the the hitch. Another guy already got the part number for the trailer control module. I have a guy that said he would check if his factory tow package has a part number tag on the harness, if not he is going to get me photos of where it routes and connectors so I can build my own harness.
checking to see if you found where the wires are to tie into. I have the hitch and brake controller installed waiting to find wires to put in the wiring harness and plug. Any help appreciated.
I built a harness but waiting for the rest of the pins to show up. The plugs are behind the driverside fender that you will need to run 6 wires from the front to back 5 wires go into the connector that has only 2 wires coming out of it and one goes to the big cluster if you want reverse lights. The ground I just grounded in back. I messed up my order for pins and ordered a few wrong so I currently only have reverse lights and tail lights at the plug haha oops. You will also need the trailer control module from ford to plug in that plugs in behind the panels on the driver side cargo area will either need forscan or a dealer will maybe turn those features un for you. You will need to pop the plugs out of the connectors like in the photos the the back side will need to be uncliped and slid up the wires so you can break the plugs out to beable to slide your new wires and sockets into the connector.
One more thing I do not have the trailer control module hooked up and I still get the reverse and tail lights at the plug. I will know for sure once the rest of the pins get here. So I think the only thing you will need this for right away is to make the brake control feature work with all the factory features.I built a harness but waiting for the rest of the pins to show up. The plugs are behind the driverside fender that you will need to run 6 wires from the front to back 5 wires go into the connector that has only 2 wires coming out of it and one goes to the big cluster if you want reverse lights. The ground I just grounded in back. I messed up my order for pins and ordered a few wrong so I currently only have reverse lights and tail lights at the plug haha oops. You will also need the trailer control module from ford to plug in that plugs in behind the panels on the driver side cargo area will either need forscan or a dealer will maybe turn those features un for you. You will need to pop the plugs out of the connectors like in the photos the the back side will need to be uncliped and slid up the wires so you can break the plugs out to beable to slide your new wires and sockets into the connector.
FOLLOWING FOR UPDATES, PLEASE!I built a harness but waiting for the rest of the pins to show up. The plugs are behind the driverside fender that you will need to run 6 wires from the front to back 5 wires go into the connector that has only 2 wires coming out of it and one goes to the big cluster if you want reverse lights. The ground I just grounded in back. I messed up my order for pins and ordered a few wrong so I currently only have reverse lights and tail lights at the plug haha oops. You will also need the trailer control module from ford to plug in that plugs in behind the panels on the driver side cargo area will either need forscan or a dealer will maybe turn those features un for you. You will need to pop the plugs out of the connectors like in the photos the the back side will need to be uncliped and slid up the wires so you can break the plugs out to beable to slide your new wires and sockets into the connector.
It will be a little bit before I get a chance to finish I do have the parts, just we have been in blizzard after blizzard in North Dakota 2nd weekend in a row. I am currently in a hotel as the first blizzard has made my house not usable until repaired waiting on insurance. Hopefully next weekend I can run it in to my works shop and finish. Sorry for this taking me so long.
Hello All!
Good news! my self installed factory tow package is installed, and it works flawlessly!
Parts I ordered:
C201 Pigtail: WPT-1607
Trailer tow module: M2DZ-19H332-A
Nuts for trailer module: W520101-S442 x4(4 come in one bag, don't order 4 bags!)
Ford trailer connector pigtail: WPT-1659
Ford trailer 7/4 pin plug with bracket: M2DZ-14A666-B
20 ft of trailer 6 wire cable from auto parts store
wire eyelet connector for the ground at the back
Hitch assembly: MB3Z-19D520-A
Trailer Brake accessory kit: VM2DZ-2C006-A
Remove the front drivers tire and fender liner. Connector 201 and connector 105 are right there. The top connector is 201, bottom 105.
You will need to disconnect the battery in your bronco for this!
Disconnect c201 and c105. Disassemble c201 and remove the plastic weather proofing pins from the gray backing piece for pins 15, 16, 17, 18, and 19. Remove the corresponding pins from the new pigtail WPT-1607. I broke the white piece in the front of the existing connector, so be careful! Luckily the new pigtail one came out without breaking and I was able to replace it. The starting and ending pins are labeled on the back of the connectors to help you install in the proper locations.
You will need to also disassemble c105 and complete the same process as above to install a new pin pigtail into pin 40 for reverse lights(if you want them, and I did).
Once the new wires were in place and the connectors reassembled I used the factory crimps and heat shrink that comes with the connector to attach the new black group of 6 wires to these wires. Keep in mind that not all of the wires will match the factory colors. I matched the color of the factory as much as I could, then I documented which colors I had to switch the other wires to for installation of the 7 pin trailer connector in the rear.
Stick your head in the wheel well area to look for the boot that the harness for C201 goes into the firewall. There is an accessory blank above it that I used to run the new wires. I used a razor blade to cut the face of it off completely. My trailer wire harness insulated in black was big enough to seal around it (get some dielectric grease for ease pulling this through)
I then removed the trim along the drivers side kick panel from the front to the back. BE PATIENT(take your time) the trim will come off with out breaking if you're careful! There are 2 nuts under the foot rest to the left of the brake pedal. The speaker grill hinges with two clips from the front of the vehicle to the back. The rest will pop loose with some non marking trim clip tools, and some heaving from your manly fingers! Mine are pretty sore from it
I ran the new wires under as many of the zip ties that I could. If you break one don't fret go get a bag of ties that are the same size and you can pop the black wire tray off the floor with you non marking trim tools to replace the ties.
Once the wires were above the drivers rear wheel well I installed the module with ordered nuts and plugged it in.
Get a new wire in the color of your choice and crimp, solder, and heat shrink an eyelet onto it and attach it to the ground right above the tow module mounting location.
Remove the drivers side rear taillight(mine is the LED package) to get mine out you will have to remove the drivers rear fender flare, small painted trim panel below the taillight and a black plastic/rubber trim between the taillight and the opening for the swing gate.
I cut a small x in the boot for the taillight and ran the 6 wire harness and the single ground wire down below the taillight to the hitch connection location. I then referenced my wiring colors used, and a break down of the trailer connector to crimp/solder/heat shrink the wires to their proper location.
Now if you're superstitious like me you don't reassemble anything until you verify that it works!
Don't be alarmed if your battery charging wire shows 0.0 volts on your multi-meter after install. It needs to see a battery, and certain conditions have to be met for it to charge such as trailer brake application with the foot pedal etc. Your trailer brake wire will put out a few volts. Don't be alarmed by this, it's normal.
I used forscan and the obdlinkex connector to turn on the trailer options in the APIM, BCM, and IPC etc. I tried to turn on the trailer light check, and factory TBC, but I turned them back off because they didn't work.
The only dtc that is in the TRM module U2100 initial module configuration not complete. Everything works just fine with this code present, and it doesn't turn any lights on, so I just let it be.
I reassembled the vehicle, and cleaned everything up. Make sure to install the tbc accessory during this time. Don't forget the hitch as well!
Thanks to @flip and previous posters, I utilized your images of the wiring diagrams and part numbers to get this started!!!
