Which model do you have? Based on that you can determine amperage/wattage required for the inverter. Their base single compressor model is 32a (420W) which would mean you would need a minimum of a 600W inverter (using the 80% rule). That is their smallest unit, they all go up from there.
IMHO...
Your insurance will cover the damage, you will have to pay your deductible, but it is a non-surchargable claim, so at least your rates won't go up.
As for deterrents. Mouse Blocker Pro works awesome. I have them in all 3 of my classic cars as well as a larger unit in the garage where they are...
Drivers weight of 160#'s is included in the payload ratings. Load the camper sensibly and balanced. You can shift "some" to behind the campers axles to lighten the hitch weight, but keep it around 15% of the total load. You'll be fine! Enjoy your camper....... being sent from my camper in NH!
Have your repair shop do 2 separate bills, 1 for the fronts, 1 for the backs. If they combine them it gives Ford even more ammo to gripe about. Keep it clean and simple.
You would be amazed how fast 500#'s is added to a camper with simple everyday stuff. It's not just clothes and food. Battery, sewer lines and fittings, hoses, electrical cords, pots/pans, toiletries, towels, cleaning products, this list goes on and on.
That all said, I think you'd be fine with...
Is she hitting the frame of the door, or the bottom of the door? If the bottom I'd be looking for a way to retract the garage door a bit more. Some door openers have adjustment settings.
Sorry, but this is very incorrect. All windshields in the US are laminated, meaning the membrane is embedded. All side windows and rear glass are tempered, meaning they break in to a gazzilion pieces. Adding tint keeps those gazzilion pieces together.
Invest in a lithium jump pack, much safer. Way too many electronics in vehicles these days. NOCO is my "go to" for them. Have one in every vehicle.
Use your positive distribution block for the jump point.