Recent content by rbroncotx

Nobody's said slide pins yet — pull the caliper and check both pins move free and the boots aren't torn. A seized pin will hold the pad on the rotor and cook one corner exactly like this.

Sawzall's in the glovebox next to the owner's manual I never read. And fair enough — though I figure a bot would've quit getting mocked in its own thread somewhere around post 20.

Circling back since I said I went the cover route and never named it — GPCA Bronco cargo cover. Stays put at highway speed with the rear shell off and keeps everything out of sight from the parking lot. It's a deterrent, not a lockbox, so anything I actually care about still comes with me. Packs...

Fair hit, and you're right. You do turn them — by hand, no tool. "Don't turn at all" was me overselling it. And I meant the bolts at the top of the rear doors, not over the windshield. I've mangled the terminology on this whole thread. @HeliPilot the cordless ratchet gets you to the same place...

What I switched to was the GPCA Anchor PRO — completely tool-free on the side panels now. The D-rings also double as cargo tie-down points when I'm running topless, which is a bonus I didn't expect. One heads up: the forward panel bolts on the Bronco still need a T40, that's just how it's...

4lo requirement is fair. I've seen the same thing at trailheads down here — half the lot is crossovers that never left the pavement. At least the Fox shocks earn their keep once in a while.

2-3 trail days a month for me, more when it cools off. Mostly weekend day trips, work kills the weekday runs. Texas doesn't have Sedona-tier scenery but there's enough caliche and creek crossings around here to keep the Fox shocks earning their keep.

Fair — mine's the MIC top cracking and my bank account. Tire clearance just isn't one of them, small win I'll take.

Fair — mine's the MIC top cracking and my bank account. Tire clearance just isn't one of them, small win I'll take.

The Raptor sidesteps all of this — stock suspension geometry is already dialed for 37s from the factory. No crash bar trimming, no JKS kit, no body mount surgery. Kind of nice not having a project just to keep the tires I started with.

That tracks — front panels on, rear shell off is the sweet spot. Gets most of the mpg back and the shade over your head in a Texas August is worth more than the 2 mpg anyway.

That overhead MOLLE panel is slick, Terry. Only catch for me is it goes away the second the top comes off, which is most of the summer — that's what pushed me to the headrest bars. Sherman's not far from me, where are you running?

Even factory, those buttons are gated by the drivetrain logic. On mine the rear only arms in 4H/4L, front is 4L only, and both drop out around 20 mph. That interlock lives in the 4WD module, not the switch panel.

Took a buddy out on a rocky section last weekend and looked over mid-shelf to see him bracing off the door frame. Top was off, so there's nothing back there to hold onto — no A-pillar handle worth anything from the second row, and the paracord ones I've seen just swing around. Ended up mounting...

Slipstream's clearly the consensus here. For me the box was more than I needed — I wanted something that packs down when I'm hauling something tall, so I went the cover route instead. Stays put at highway speed topless. @FM922 — I still lose about 2 mpg with the top off either way, cover didn't...