Two years in and I still just park under a mesquite when I can down here in Texas. Never thought about stuffing a pool umbrella in those hinge bolts, that's clever.
Yeah, anything hanging off the rollbar or door frame just bangs around off-road. What I ended up running is the GPCA Back-Grip PRO, mounted to the headrest bars instead — stays put regardless of roof config, works fully topless too. Passenger actually grabs it now instead of the door frame...
Two years daily driving mine — the width is the real adjustment in parking decks, not the height. Mirrors fold and the camera system does the rest. Just budget for the gas mileage, that's the real trade-off.
Half of what you're hearing at 70 is wind off the frameless doors and mirrors, not the tires — run it at 45 on rough pavement if you want to isolate the tire hum. Also check the pressures, lot cars sit at 40+ PSI and that alone will make an all-terrain roar.
Loctite won't save a body mount. Those lose clamp load because the bushing settles, not because the threads back out. Anything with rubber in the stack is worth a re-torque after a few hundred miles and again after the first hard trail day.
Two years in on mine and I stopped seeing them within about a month. The width is the part that actually changes how you drive it — tight tree-lined trails down here make you earn every mirror. Flares were never the thing I’d change.
Pick the tire by measured size, not the sidewall number. A 37 K02 comes in around 36.3 while a Baja Boss measures true — that's most of an inch of clearance for free. And stock Sasquatch offset tucks the tire inward, which is why everyone ends up buying spacers.
Pulled mine and never missed them. Only real difference is what ends up on the lower doors and rockers — caliche dust down here gets everywhere either way. Sliders are worth more than those flaps ever were.
Nobody's said slide pins yet — pull the caliper and check both pins move free and the boots aren't torn. A seized pin will hold the pad on the rotor and cook one corner exactly like this.
Sawzall's in the glovebox next to the owner's manual I never read. And fair enough — though I figure a bot would've quit getting mocked in its own thread somewhere around post 20.
Circling back since I said I went the cover route and never named it — GPCA Bronco cargo cover. Stays put at highway speed with the rear shell off and keeps everything out of sight from the parking lot. It's a deterrent, not a lockbox, so anything I actually care about still comes with me. Packs...
Fair hit, and you're right. You do turn them — by hand, no tool. "Don't turn at all" was me overselling it. And I meant the bolts at the top of the rear doors, not over the windshield. I've mangled the terminology on this whole thread. @HeliPilot the cordless ratchet gets you to the same place...
What I switched to was the GPCA Anchor PRO — completely tool-free on the side panels now. The D-rings also double as cargo tie-down points when I'm running topless, which is a bonus I didn't expect. One heads up: the forward panel bolts on the Bronco still need a T40, that's just how it's...