Mine has been taking a lot of taps with my pocket knife in order to get it online again, I think whatever connection I'm making by tapping it is getting worse. It's inop more than not these days. Thinking about getting a new one and seeing if I can disassemble this one to see where the issue lies.
It's not a software issue, nor is it a connector issue, it's something within the physical camera itself. Probably a loose PCB or solder joint, I haven't taken one apart to diagnose it. A new camera will resolve the issue, though it's a relatively expensive fix just to get an identical camera...
Interested to see what you come up with. I've been meaning to do something like this since the first time I crawled underneath it and looked, never got around to it. It seems like it would be simple enough to make a near bolt-on kit for it. My idea was to use the existing swaybar mounting...
There's plenty of room to add flush crossmember bracing under there to replace the ridiculous boat anchors they slapped on for the V6. If you used a skidplate as a stressed skin connecting the flush crossmembers and frame together, you'd end up with something considerably more rigid than what...
Lithium batteries do not contain metallic lithium and therefore do not oxidize with water, a common misunderstanding but a misunderstanding nonetheless. These batteries contain lithium salts, and the lithium contained within is already oxidized, which makes them oxidizers in and of themselves...
Maybe, and hear me out because it's a stretch....maybe the point of such a small wire wasn't to use it to run current, but rather to use it as a fishing tool to run appropriately sized wire through the same route. Just butt splice the proper gauge wire to it and pull it through, then cut the...
It's based on testing battery cell performance at the factory. If you're not aware of what C rating is in reference to a lipo pack, then I suggest you read up on lithium chemistry batteries and get up to speed, because there's a lot of info on the subject that you're probably not aware of. It's...
Show me the reason why Ohm's law prevents it, then explain your variables. It won't push the burst current while starting a vehicle, but there's no reason to doubt the claim that it's capable of that when the variables are there to support it. I said as much in my post.
Oh, I went down this rabbit hole a while back. Seems like there's a whole lot of conflicting info on the efficacy of siping. Most manufacturers and tire dealerships don't agree with it while some guys swear by it. But shaping/shaving tires for a specific purpose absolutely has its place...
I use a NOCO GB251 24V pack to start my PT6A-34, and it works every bit as well as my old Aero Specialties 4800A GPU that cost several thousand and needed to be wheeled out on its own cart. Voltage levels during startup remain in the same threshold and spool up time is identical with either...
Nice, that's where my relay lived for a while as well. Not too many other places available for it, but I did figure out that I could just barely fit it between the negative battery terminal and the fuse box to free up a little space.
Take a look at the two rectangular spots below where the VIN text should be on the background sticker. They appear to be cutouts in the transparent VIN overlay sticker. Both the OP and JR's have those cutouts visible, OP's to a somewhat lesser degree but I can just make out a transparent edge...