Search results

Also earlier in this post string the videos are posted

received mine in two days

door will eventually dim out on timer and with car off all power is shut down except certain circuits after 90 seconds including the 12V power port in cargo area.

One more thing- the horn fuse is constant - you could piggyback off that fuse using the piggyback adapter from image below but if you want the aux switch to control you will have to disconnect it from the correct fuse in the fuse box, connect it to this piggyback, then choose the correct wire...

https://fuse-box.info/ford/ford-bronco-2021-fuses you can find out which open fuses are constant with a circuit tester probe with the car off and resting for more than 90 seconds

you would have to circumvent the prewired aux fuses in the fuse box (that is where the all auto off is programmed) and then move one of the aux wires from the existing aux fuse to an always live open fuse (I think there are some). You will risk draining your battery if the aux switch is left on.

after further consideration - I am doing this (flipping and running down A pillar to either visor circuit or glove box) - I will just turn them on and off with aux when necessary and wait for the rear dome light from IAG that will replace the existing dome and broadcast both into the cargo and...

I got my email later from IAG but apparently they dropped it here first I had checked watch/ receive notifications. Thats how I found out earlier

check out the sponsors tab at the top - especially IAG and Mabett and 4X4 truck LED - they get a lot of purchases and continue to release new aftermarket products cheaper than OEM

Great idea! I assume you are doing this just for extra lighting when needed - obviously this would be an aux switch configuration only and you would not have lights come on when door opens. Hmm - going to have to consider this option because the tapping into the fuse for the auto door opening...

there were concerns about this with the grab handles - lots of posts about it- the airbags fire downward and with a lot of force - the lights use the existing mounting screws - I would not be concerned

this shows the glove box circuit - I think I am finally there sorry for all the posts

Thanks for this - forgot about the non powered glove box circuit and updated amp chart, here is what I plan to do : at the wiring point in the engine bay (diver side near battery) connect one of the non powered glove box circuit B1 brown/white to a powered aux switch (2) green/brown wire...

we just need to know the amperage it draws at 12 V

Exactly and the switch will allow us to turn on the interior lights when someone drops something while driving and and needs light to find it. I have kids - happens all the time in the back seat cave. Want to make sure I do this correctly the IAG 12 V comment concerns me

One last dumb electrical question - you mention 12 V feed, if we are using aux switches, 1 and 2 are 30 and 15 amps respectively. Which switch would take that 12 V load and what gauge wire would you recommend since the switch harness butt stops near the circuit tap and we will have to run...

For those wondering - its to the left of the brake pedal here and has a zip tie around it This picture is someone is pushing a heavy gauge subwoofer amp wire (red) through - use a clothes hanger and some tape. Here it is coming through engine bay - the auxiliary wiring bundle is easily...

Perfect thank you!