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My solution: Rear seat delete + Wicked Relics Packhorse slide out tray (with pre-drilled holes for the plate) + Wicked Relics Anti Skid Cargo Liners (custom cut into 3 pieces, so I have a 3rd piece to put over the plate if needed). I use the XL Toolbox with the Crate on top; the slide out tray...

As a 2-door owner with them removed entirely for a slide out tray (so this doesn't have any relevance), that seems like a really bad idea and could potentially (worse case) open you up to litigation in case of an accident where the seats fail and there are long-term injuries. I'm extremely risk...

Another way to look at it is a safety expense of ~$1,000 plus service. Some people prefer to have tools to get them out of trouble (winch/recovery boards/straps etc.) and some people would just like to call AAA. Yeah, not as cool as telling your buddies you got into and then out of trouble by...

Need? No Want? Yes

Rockworkx thumb fasteners and straps (great for getting reusable grocery bags off the floor and to keep them from sliding in the back), they also add some color/flair to the back. Mabett hooks also work well (appear to be in the pic above). I also have the Course Motorsports plate and fire...

Combining the above posts, you can attach Packout mounts to the Wicked Relics tray - in this pic the large boxes in the back are mounted to the plate and the Milwaukee toolbox's vertical bars are useful to attach straps with for other items.

Looks like https://www.wickedrelicsoffroad.com/ - highly recommend and relatively close to you.

Tool chest drawer liner which you can buy by the roll? Definitely tacky enough, though not sure how well it holds up to heat inside a car.

100% Agree - I added the Havoc Molle panel to the interior tailgate a few weeks ago, have a small Packout bracket arriving today for the Havoc, and going to see if I can fit a M18 Milwaukee light (pictured below) for power outages, emergencies and rear lighting.

I have driver's seat mounts for my other (track-sorta) cars, but use this for my Bronco (not cheap, about $650 with the good extinguisher and the cam lock, but rattle free compared with the standard/red thin mounts and mostly out of sight when used with a black extinguisher and tinted windows)...

Just installed mine - not difficult, though a third hand would be helpful for about 2 minutes. Very well made, a little heavier than I expected. Depending on what else you have on the inside and outside of the tail, it might be a consideration. It sits away from the tailgate with the exception...

Agreed, this looks like a $200K+ Sprinter build like your cross-town neighbors Outside Van

Nice - rough idea of the (highly skilled) labor hours?

Just ordered

Not your use case specifically, but here's my setup that allows access to everything (without the wear and tear of sliding equipment across the floor) and more flexibility, from: https://www.wickedrelicsoffroad.com/ They will also sell you the brackets to place your DIY module on top if you...

I just installed mine this weekend, but haven't had a chance to see how best to utilize it. It seems to me the use case for this is easy access to a flat floor. I had considered other rear-seat delete systems like Goose Gear, but I didn't want to have to worry about cargo (like dog crates)...

I would check with them. When I ordered, I got the grab handle mount (which was not listed as pre order), their tailgate Molle panel, and their cam-lock fire extinguisher (which are assembled to order) and it probably took a little over a week or so (they are on the east coast and I'm on the...

If she needs the handhold, there's this version which does the same thing but blocks some of the storage and controls: https://coursemotorsports.com/collections/bronco/products/direct-fit-phone-mount-ford-bronco-2021

If you don't want/need anything in your line of sight, this works great: https://coursemotorsports.com/collections/bronco/products/direct-fit-phone-mount-ford-bronco-2022

In the OP version and the Lonewolf versions, there aren't any end grommets - do these simply fit under the screws (doesn't seem like there is much to hold onto) or do you attach eyelets to the roof and then the cord to the eyelets?