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Sounds like you've never done blue collar work if you think there is no stress, better hours and higher billable hours. Double the first 2 if you are running your own small business.

Not unless you've made sure it's in your policy. Most basic policies don't cover mechanical breakdown loaners. Loaners for accidents are more common. Always review your policies. Insurance companies a NOT your friends.

This post gave me a Hmmm? moment. I've seen quite a number of posts by ford Motor Company requesting VINs but I don't recall ever seeing anyone post a follow up stating doing this was helpful. Maybe it's all behind the scenes magic but it seems to me it would be really good PR if FMC or the OP...

If that uses petroleum as a base I'd avoid using it on door seals. From what I read I saw no recommendation to use it on soft seals of any kind..

Hood flutter could simply be the gap between the hood stops and the hood. Too big a gap on one or both sides can allow some lift at speed. Mine were a little uneven when new.

All such things only prove that the quick click, social media, turd soup we're fed every day works. $billions are made using this technique. It will not go away in my lifetime.

Kinda crap that it appears to be twice as expensive as the 4 door https://ford.oempartsonline.com/oem-parts/ford-window-switch-m2dz14529bb?c=bD0yJm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHMmYT1mb3JkJm89YnJvbmNvJnk9MjAyMyZ0PWJpZy1iZW5kJmU9Mi0zbC1sNC1nYXM=

Well aren't you just the life of the party?:rolleyes:

Lower air dam or shutters? Either way there's plastic and a cheap actuator involved. Misalignment and or fasteners not done correctly would be my initial suspiscion.

I know. That's why I said "need to get a defect" aka a throw away unit. I certainly wouldn't suggest this for a warantable component.

Personally I'd tape off the window as water tight as possible and then jet water at the seam where the top and side meet. Some of those water spots look like drops from a height and not leaks at the window seal. Those would generally follow the wind contours and puddle at the bottom. Not...

Makes you wonder what they do with all the defects. Need to get a defect, coat that thing with Line-X and see how it holds up.

I don't know the schematics but I'm sure someone here does but it should be fairly simple to have a relay for the aux fan that cuts on the same time the factory fan does. Just a thought

I know right. The burden of having a conscience and ethics. ;)

I have had 2 Land Rovers from the owned by Ford generation. Does that create some vortex of negative energy that could be life threatening? Or is Ford + JLR how to summon beelzebub? Kidding of course. Except about the Rovers. That part is for real.

Rail dust is a blanket statement. You have thousands of miles of rail and everything is steel so that's the biggest chunk, there's also dust from the ballast between the ties and probably all kinds of particulates in an industrial environment. It all gets lumped in as rail dust. On a side note I...

It's not just Ford. Waiting for it to warm up so I can clay bar ours. This is why buying the Lifetime Protection from the dealer is ignorant. No way they clay bar the vehicle before sealing in all the rail dust.

If I recall it's the Borla Type S rebadged.

Yep. Owned 3 Square Body Chevys. My 73 cost me $3100. Rubber floor mats and a vinyl bench seat. I'd buy the same thing today if a stripped down build like that was available.

Base GT is 43K. Was looking to get one. Bought the Bronco instead.