You could just get a 2-way component set and only use the woofer. But if you go that route, the tweeter will be miles better than the stock 4" speaker so you might as well use that also. You will need more power to get any real performance from a 6.5" driver in the kick panel. And good, clean...
I think the question is do you want them to cut the factory wiring harness? Any decent shop could do that install but you should ask about that if it matter to you.
Get an amp. Even something as cheap as the Kicker Key will do wonders. You can get a little better with better speakers. You can get multiple times better with an amp and sub.
I can't remember exactly. I pulled the rear pods off and then I was able to feed the wire through. I might have used the wire puller, not sure. I remember it being a pain to work around the upper portion and getting the wires routed. I just left the stock wires in place.
That will give you the best potential outcome, mid-bass drivers low and highs in the dash. It depends on if your goal is to just sound better than stock or to get the most out of your setup.
If you go with what you describe, you will need to manage the frequencies with crossovers. Maybe...
I did not remove the seat or seat belt clip. The signal wires from the head unit go down the passenger side. Really just one wire - the speed wire for all speaker signals.
If you want to have a decent amount of power, you will need to run a dedicated power line to the battery. It really depends on what you are trying to achieve.
I have heard lots of people say that they don't need to rattle the windows, have people hear them coming down the street, etc...
Agree with @Brian_B, I would go like this:
1 - sub and sub amp
2 - speaker amp
3 - DSP
4 - Kick Panel Speakers
5 - sound deadening (don't go crazy, it's a Bronco so it's going to be noisy inside)
6 - rear speakers
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...-dsp-speakers-and-sub-lots-of-pictures.43856/
1. Would this fit/work ???
2. Has anyone done anything similar ??
3. Do I need any special harness for plug in n Play ??
My understanding is that the amps are a bit of an over kill!?
1. Should fit and work fine, look like good choices
2. I don't think I have seen this particular setup, but...
I ran a wire to the driver side, interior fuse box. Local car auto store had the correct add-a-circuit part. I can't remember which fuse I used for switched power.
I have the base system, so it does not have the built-in processing that your B&O has. So yes, it does give me a full range signal to wherever I tell it to. However, the need for a full range signal to the rear that people seem so obsessed over on this forum is not that big a deal. 4"...
I have found the 2 easiest to start with are Audio Control and JL Audio. You can get standalone DSP or integrated into an amplifier. I went with Audio Control:
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...-dsp-speakers-and-sub-lots-of-pictures.43856/
Makes sense, but my experience is that you won't be missing anything. I have built several car audio systems and have always gone with component speakers for my front stage. You won't be missing anything. As long as you power your speakers appropriately and tune it well, you will get a full...
Not to throw a monkey wrench into your plans, but you could use the convertible function of the MS62 and have those be your only front speakers. Mount the woofers in the kick panel as normal and mount the tweeters somewhere in/on the dash or a-pillar. That is the direction I went, but with...
Yes. Great fun! BTW, I am also running a mix of active and passive crossovers:
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...-dsp-speakers-and-sub-lots-of-pictures.43856/
That would be what I would do. I ran an older version of the Hertz component speakers in a previous car and giving them more power will show what they can really do. No comment on bridging the Kicker Key to a 2-channel, it looks like it may not be possible. You could try running it in bi-amp...