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Any low cost option is a win. The base model would make for a great DD/local fleet. They've also apparently designed it for AWD, also. It would be crazy not to. The big asterisk is the price. So, so, so many manufacturers have promised, or "targeted", a certain price and proceed to sell for...

I got it working with the relay this morning. I'll check resistance when I can. Either way, glad to have it working, and will keep an eye on any heated wiring while engaged.

Hope you don't mind me continuing to hijack your thread. I put in a 30 amp fuse just to test it before installing a relay, and it's still blowing immediately. Can anyone point me towards some troubleshooting to find the source of this issue. Some simple multimeter checks seem good. Continuity...

So it was just overloading the 10 fuse? Weird. I know at least one person has installed straight through that without issue.

Did you ever work out the issue? I just installed a takeoff rear locker on my Base, and just have a few burnt fuses to show for it.

Yeah. Black diamond take-off m220. There's not much other option for the base.

Installed an ELD rear axle into the Base. I now have everything I wanted from the factory. Well, I will when I can hook up the ELD after FedEx delivered the pigtail to the wrong #&*@ing house! My only picture is the moment when I was reconsidering my choices.

I numbered my tires with chalk before my last appointment. I noted the appointment with 5-tire rotation, and double-checked at drop-off that it'd be all 5. When my Bronco was ready after a 2hr oil change and rotation, #5 was still hanging on the tailgate. Got it done in the end, but I'd suggest...

I use a hitch carrier for a dirtbike (~250lbs). The Ford Hitch is a Class 2, rated for 350lb tongue weight. A Tenere is over 450. That seems dangerous.

Finished a cargo platform today. Thanks to the initial design by @Trigger . Split for 3-person seating, added rope handles, and the center support folds into an armrest.

A 20% difference is very hard to ignore, if you're cross-shopping.

I'm most interested in the Hand brake! Gimme!

What're the chances for Rev-Match on manuals?

I don't understand the point of responding to this thread with "have you considered NOT using rev match?". The question is whether there's some way to get rev match without the tune. Now that it's not even available there, the question is more valid for anyone that wants to have it.

And now, it looks like you can't even get Rev Match in the ProCal tune. Apparently for CARB certification. I'm also one that just wants the rev match for a bit of QOL bonus. I have no need for a power boost, especially with a premium gas requirement.

No more rev matching, per EPA? That's the scuttlebutt.

You can DIY these generic ones on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002NIJS0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Resilient, floppy, and CHEAP! Just rubber and fiber in the general shape of a mudflap. I grabbed a couple feet of flat metal rod from the hw store, covered...

I don't quite remember, but you may be right on the gear they were using. I do always put it in C or R. I would do that either way. I just feel like a handbrake would be a significant QOL improvement over the switch; especially as it's placed. Of course I'd prefer a reliable, simple, tactile...

These arguments are generally pretty subjective. Safety and consistency are a faith argument that shows cracks on any electronic vs mechanical comparison (and this recall). Convenience might be a wash, if it was located in the center console. That seems to be the big enabler for their argument...

The recall proves that Ford can make an unreliable electronic e-brake system (surprise). Also, in the manual, you don't have the backup protection of the transmission being in Park. The 2.3 doesn't have a whole lot of compression to overcome gravity. There was a post here some time back of...