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Lol. Ok. Feel better?

it’s starting…

everything has it's good and bad angles. just have to see them in person. That's kind of what the aftermarket and paint shop are for. I wouldn't worry about it too much.

Think it’s just the flares throwing off the proportions. looks good!

There are going to be A LOT of people feeling this way. it’s not so much that it won’t be a good vehicle. There are just soooooo many people putting it on a pedestal. It’s just a car.

I understand that you guys feel that the sticker is sufficient but unless you replace the stock tires on you vehicle with the same tire or a tire with very similar load numbers (weight @ psi) the sticker is no longer the go to. Had you done the math, chalk test or both, you may have found those...

Yep. I get it. Most people don’t even think about this stuff. Not know where to even start looking for the info. But those people will go leave bad tire review.

Really comes down to construction of the tire. Each tire is constructed differently. A Toyo m/t will be different than a Bfg a/t which is different than a Goodyear whatever. my old tires were 35s and max inflation was @ 65psi (don’t recall weight). These are 37s and max inflation is 75psi...

Since this came up yesterday, I thought it would be a good thing to share. Most people assume the tire shop knows (or cares) what PSI you should run in your aftermarket tires. Most shops fill according to the door sticker or close to the max of the tire. For example, I just got BFG KM3s on my...

Probably not. Frame, suspension, and tires are the main limiting factors.

I think the best option would be to weld some bolts/studs to a plate on the bottom side of the A-arm and nut it from the top. I wouldn't want to hammer studs into those arms and expect that material to hold them.

HAHA. Understand that. I don't mind doing the work to pull them. My guy is just cheap enough that I've never felt compelled to dive in.

That’s 100% right. Having the confidence to try is 50% of the job, the right tools is 25%. You can bumble through the rest. You can watch all the YouTube videos you want but the only way to learn is to get your hands dirty. Edit: With the exception of an automatic transmissions. That shit is...

Something to consider is with open diffs, a 4wd doesn’t actually put power to all 4 corners (1 front 1 rear). At least with a locker, you’d have 3 wheel drive. Without a locker, the tire(s) with power is usually the one that doesn’t need it.

Yep. In reality, the majority of the people who buy these vehicle won't NEED any of the buttons on the dashboard other than hazards. Rear diff and traction control will help you through most dirt trails. Front/rear diff and traction for mud and deep sand. Disconnect is good for when you...

Lol. You’re right. I don’t know shit and haven’t seen shit. Carry on with your ignorant bliss.

Yep. I’ve done that to MTRs, KM2s, TSLs and red label Krawlers. Reds wear more evenly since they are so soft. buddies have done the same to every tire they’ve run on their rock crawlers. KMTs, KR2s, KM3s, trepadors, and creepy crawlers, swampers etc. None of that is to say the Goodyear’s are...

If those are wheeled everyday, they look normal to me.

AND…. Keep you’re arms and hands inside at all times. The roll bar is NOT a handle. Don’t touch it. It seems obvious but when you go over, the natural reaction is to hang on to what you got. If you’re holding a tube get ready to say bye bye to your fingers. Best thing to do is grab the bottoms...

Man. This started off as a great topic and got hijacked almost immediately. Thanks for your initial contributions OP and a few others. I know I’m way late to the conversation but couple other things I think should be added. You should almost never be walking around a vehicle while it’s on a...