Another good option, softop closes over it and easily removable when you want/need
https://www.smsparts.com/product-page/2021-ford-bronco-4dr-soft-top-clk-roof-racks
Sounds like clipping, did you tune the DSP without the subs when you ran it? Definitely exclude the subs when you tune, shouldn't have to adjust the gain much - should be pretty close factory (dialed ot the far left)
Yes, you'll need a resistor or Line Out Converter. I went with:
KIT 12-1 KICKER KEY HARNESS ONLY WITH PAC LPA-1.2 SUB CONVERTER
You can get the resistor only in
KIT 11-2 KICKER KEY 200.4 WITH HARNESS WITH 17FT CORD & LOAD RESISTOR FOR HIGH LEVEL INPUT FOR POWERED SUB / AMP $525
Try manually fading front and back. You'll definitly hear them back there. They are tiny ass speakers though. Might consider bigger speakers back there - check this thread:
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/mabett-rear-speaker-pods-totally-worth-it.70520/page-5#post-2000538
Think sound mode defaults to Driver, adjust to all and you'll get more sound out of the back
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/audio-defaults-to-driver-mode.67750/
Mentioned this back in February, but welcome to all the new folks trying to get their tunes dialed in.
Depends what problem you're trying to solve. Speakers are basic physics, drivers move cones. Better drivers, better cones, typically better sound. IMHO, LOVE those Memphis in the kick...
Another good solution, these go under the soft top. Can leave them in full time, or click in/out so you can leave the roof wide open.
https://www.smsparts.com/product-page/2021-ford-bronco-4dr-soft-top-clk-roof-racks
Unless you did the FORSCAN mod of course. Common sense, if you opened up the power to the back or amplified the back then you'll need base blockers on a 4" speaker or it's gonna be toast fast. Most of those 4" speakers are rated for less than 50W RMS and have range in the 60-20,000Hz area...
Pop back to this conversation - couple good thoughts in a row there.
This thread is getting pretty long, but in a nutshell most people have the gain all the way down. Seems the Kicker Key 200.4 if pretty well matched to the signal from the head unit. As you turn it up you notice clipping at...
You get some lower response from the Memphis MJP6 (frequency range: 50-10, 000 Hz)
If you wanna get down for bass you're gonna need not only a larger cone, but a lower response. Super hard to do that in the tiny kick panels in this truck. Your best best is the Kicker CSC65 (offered in a couple...
Agree, I have the Infinity Reference. Lots of discussion on these early in this thread. Crisp and clear, IMHO they are great (with the amp) for cymbals, electric guitars, vocals (rock/pop). They FILL the high end the way I like it filled. Get your mid and bass in the other components, I...
I did the same, I suggest the 12-1 kit. You'll for sure need a resistor to run the sub, so you could get away with the 11-2; however, the 12-1 comes with the PAC LPA-1.2 which is RCA ready and has some cool features to help make the powered sub a plug and play event.
Couple things, plug and play kit and Key200 should run your dash/kick panel/pods. You'll need a resistor or LOC from there to run the sub.
The RCA should run from the LOC to the Key500. The idea is that LOC bypasses the key200 and goes straight to the next amp. You don't want to amp an...
Connect with a cable rather than BT. Select input source, select your device, press play on your device. Let the track play then use the Key remote to start the tuning process.
Totally agree, simply swapping out the four 4" cleans things up immensely. Which specific speakers did you go with?
I did the Infinity Reference REF-4032cfx, great speaker IMHO, but if you plan to run with the roof/windows down the amp is a good move (I have mine waiting to go in). Volume...