I believe I bought them on Amazon. I think they were 10 gauge but they worked.
XHF 12-10 AWG 500 Pcs Female Spade Disconnect Connectors Terminals Nylon Fully Insulated Quick Crimp Wire Connectors Yellow https://a.co/d/fZHpDr1
The brown wire is connected to the wrapped 4 AWG wire which runs to the engine bay where itās connected via a fuse and a shut-off to the battery. The connector is not visible in the photo you were looking at. Here is a view from the engine.
Yes, itās the 35L Dometic. Iāve looked at the latch on the Goose Gear door and I think it can be removed so that the door just sits on the opening. I decided not to try it since I feel like Iāll have ample power at 54Ah.
This is great @cr117 and similar to what I did (youāll go a bit beyond me with the solar hookup and additional DC / USB ports). Two learnings that may be helpful. I installed the Goose Gear floor and pull-out tray for the fridge. I ended up removing one of the 18Ah batteries to allow the Goose...
Youāre correct. I ran four 18 Ah batteries in parallel to give me 72 Ah. I also did buy their 60 Amp fuse kit. Iād need to look to confirm when I get back in town but I have one 60 Amp fuse in the engine bay at the cut off, another 60 Amp fuse in the cargo area, and a smaller fuse that was built...
Here is ine
here is one on removing trim panels. The pics are for the 2 door but it worked for me.
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/anyone-have-service-manuals-to-remove-rear-cargo-trim-panels-for-2-door.32722/
See my reply to @DangerMTBBronco for a parts list and what else I had to buy. Also, Justin McBride has a YouTube video on it that helped me. There were some other posts that I looked at that Iāll find for you.
I bought everything on your list plus the Dometic wiring kit. There were some additional things I needed including 8 AWG wire to place the batteries in parallel, a bus bar, a sleeve for the wire, and 8 AWG spades to connect to the battery terminals (I may be forgetting something; Iām sitting on...
I have a Goal Zero, which Iāve used for the purposes you described. It got me through an 8-day overlanding trip in Colorado last year and several overnights here in the Southeast. One problem was that the 12V plugs (either the Goal Zero into the truck or the fridge into the Goal Zero) would pop...
This is what I used:
https://www.amazon.com/Insulated-Disconnect-Electrical-Connector-Terminal/dp/B0844VWS35/ref=sr_1_1?qid=1679181690&refinements=p_n_feature_four_browse-bin%3A18945766011&s=industrial&sr=1-1
We were able to make it fit. I cut a slot in the rubber grommet and passed it through the firewall. Pulled up the doorframe trim and ran it through there. The hardest part was getting from the front doorframe panel to the back. We used a coat hanger to pull it through. There was some conduit...
Iām going to keep an eye on the temps until I learn how it plays out. I did use the 40 amp REDARC, so it will be charging the batteries faster than if I used the 25. Iāve seen others on this thread who have had this setup installed for a few months now without issue. I was tempted to use smaller...
The REDARC mount wouldnāt fit so I didnāt use it. I think the MASS system will solve your problem. The battery holder fit well. Itās the wires that are pushing up the floor for me.
Here is where I ended up. I ran 4 AWG wire from the Blue Sea cut-off switch in the engine bay to the REDARC charger under the cargo floor. Then used 8 AWG wire to run four Dakota Lithium batteries in parallel using a bus bar. Ran that behind the driverās side panel to the Dometic hardwiring kit...