Search results

Haven't really done much with this as it seems like a lot of effort to switch between the two. What's your thinking on going back and forth?

I don’t have personal experience with the Kilmat, but have heard good things. You can also buy the fore version and stick it on. I think Kilmat is higher quality.

Good catch on your fitting. I'll check mine next time the rear is off (too cold here now!).

I've actually thought about using some of the weather stripping for this... haven't done it yet- Amazon.com: Duck Brand Self Adhesive Foam Weatherstrip Seal for Extra Large Gaps, 3/4-In x 1/2-In x 10-Ft, 1 Roll, 284426 -Ben

Thanks for bringing that to the group's attention! I did an Amazon search, and found this: Amazon.com: AUTOXBERT 4M/13ft Z Shape Car Window Door Rubber Seal Strip Edge Trim Guards Hollow Weatherstrip for Car Window Door Engine Cover : Automotive

On the mid panel, I only did the curved section as no where else seemed to need it. In the rear- I did 4, 3, 1, 3 in that order from front to back. I simply goes straight up and down more or less as a filler. You can use 3 or other material there too. 3 seemed to work better as it was slightly...

That’s odd. Appears to be a mfg defect?

It's like a golf score... better to be lower... I love hearing the "1.5" !!

This is fantastic and sounds like you and I should go into business. Well done! I look forward to making some readings as well once my top goes back on.

I'll do some decibel readings soon.... I took my top off as the weather is great here right now. Feel free to send any pictures of the panels that are not flush. Mine are completely flush.

Based on what I can roughly see- wondering if you can get it tucked "behind" the window vs overlapping- maybe the wind caught it? I also was wondering if it would come off. Mine, though, is "behind" the middle piece so wind doesn't catch it.

I'll do this- should have done it pre and post... oh well. I was at the dealer today, and they were a bit surprised to see how seamless everything now appears.

Hope that helps! You can also experiment with the other seal if it’s better. I was thinking of trying one of the softer seals to see if it fit less snug.

Basically, you're looking for it to form a seal between the panels- shouldn't really get stuck on top of the other panel. It's not actually applied on the two bumps- it's on the perpendicular surface that comes vertical from the bumps.

this doesn’t look correct. There shouldn’t be any raising of the panels. Make sure it’s only on the indented parts of the roof and not the raised sections.

Bestill my heart! Lol. Well done. Agreed on the rear seal. I also think #2 is the way to go there. Regarding latches- mine are no harder now. Then again- these are the tight mfg specs, right?! ;)

I think the top side insulation (rubber pipe seal), the rear Z strip and rubber insulation Completely agree... I'm in a 4 dr as mentioned... rear cap made a big difference. The side foam pipe was the simplest thing to do (by far), and maybe made the most instant difference. As a side note, I'm...

FWIW- there is nothing in any drain channel except the channel on top of the windshield. I have not seen a drop of water in there after 3 rains and 3 carwashes.

Sorry to hear- I've wondered how easily those might break.

Agreed here. There is no inner seal or channel that the rubber blocks. It’s literally an interior gap in the cabin.