Picked up a FP cover a few months back. At 5000 miles right now so will replace cover and fluid next few weeks.
Question for those of you with the FP cover; do you fill differential oil to low or high plug on the FP cover? Guessing it’s the lower one but want to be sure before tackling. Figured...
Pls do post. Most interested in “if it’s metal” or still plastic w/ drain…
lastly if metal how flat/solid is mounting flange. ie: no leaks!!
As you stated if it’s metal and $60 range can’t beat that!!!
Thx
Dunning Kruger, +1
back roads, side streets 21.5 and occasionally 22. Freeway at 70 mph +/- so I don’t get run over, 19-19.5 mpg. (All this is without winds; those can hurt the mpg pretty good as it’s already a brick!)
95% of “what mileage you’re attaining” is self inflected!! You can’t drive it like a drag racer, you can’t push it 75+ (it’s a brick), don’t drive to within 20 yds of stop lights and lay on brakes, etc.
No magic formula to mpg EXCEPT YOU…. Peoples posts about poor mpg reflect no common sense...
No rubbing on turning or articulation? I know Toyo makes a 37-11.50 and think Jendra has a 37-11.50 or 10.50 in the Klever. (A/T or R/T type)
thx again. Oh, any good numbers on mpg hit? 1/2? , 1? or more…..?
My 2 door had wind noise on both passenger and driver windows in back upper corners. Weren’t sitting in/against seals as should have been. Dealer did adjustments, 2 different times, and much better.
That said it’s a plastic top and the window design DOES NOT encompass an upper frame so it’s not...
Times have been “too good for way too long” …… people have lost touch with finances/purchasing and it’s with everything in our economy.
Vehicles, housing, food, entertainment; you name it!
Hate to think about when the correction starts, and if it doesn’t our economy and standard of living will...
Lots of posters have nailed it for you; speed moderation and gradual acceleration and aerodynamics…. I see best mileage at 63-65 mph on highway, winds kick your butt and not much else to control except gradual acceleration and light skinny pedal.
If mileage is your end game an economy...
$100 a wheel most likely “fair” to both parties. From there it s “ a willing buyer and willing seller” negotiation.
Non-OEM wheels can most likely be gotten for $200/$300 each depending on what they are.
2 year order/wait here… when arrived sticker was $7K higher than my order price; not to mention they were still wanting $5K of ADM still …. So my 23 BL was$12K under the “got to have it” price folks were paying. ( Happy I waited and PP was honored or I d of walked…. Apparently lots of folks...
If you ran 37-11.50-17 that extra 1/2” decrease on each side of wheel “might” get you close to no rub / or minimal at worse …
I ll let more knowledgeable guys or people who ve done that weigh in. Food for Thought anyway !!