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2 door I4 Big Bend non-sasquatch here as well; the OEM rear bar really makes the bronco feel a lot more neutral without feeling like the rear is going to slide, and (this surprised me) making the feeling of brake dive on initial brake application much less. It has been a meaningful upgrade in...

I would guess that the engine side of traction control is disabled in 4L, but the brake side is still active (i.e. to help if you don't have lockers where/when you really want them).

Likely changes shift points (if automatic transmission), throttle pedal vs. torque mapping, and maybe traction and stability control thresholds for control.

Would it work: likely yes. But it would also ruin the TPMS sensor and make a hell of a mess out of the tire machine of the poor SOB who eventually dismounts the tire. A full size spare and/or plug kit and compressor is a better option.

Historically, it is usually hard to pull a bead off at 25 or higher PSI - but that isn't always low enough for deep sand... so my personal rule of thumb is 20-25 psi you don't have to worry much as long as you are not doing doughnuts in wet sand or sliding sideways into rocks. 15-20 psi you...

The plastic type is probably molded into the back side of the plastic (for recycling purposes) - this goes for most plastic used in the automotive industry.

Which engine and transmission (2.3l auto here)?

Modern ABS systems should recognize a failed circuit in the event of a hydraulic leak. Also, in the case of a fault like a failed circuit the electric e-brake will still clamp mechanically, and the ABS module has the ability to apply and release it repeatedly to act much like ABS if one of the...

That is all that has to be done (cut slots for the OE recovery points/loops). All bolt holes line up.

And now we get to what people actually use the rear facing lights for; fighting back.

Not quite the same, but we went from the 17" Big Bend tire (same make and model, but different size vs. OuterBanks) to the Badlands KO2, and everything got better except fuel economy. Tire feels stiffer, but also better damped - in all directions. Fuel economy went down 2-4 MPG though.

I would guess that you will end up having to demonstrate this to the service advisor and/or Ford field service engineer while they are recording CAN data in order to determine what is happening. It will likely be a long and frustrating path between now and then though. Keep telling them that...

Plasma cutter, then cleaned up with a die grinder (could have all been done with a drill, sawzall/hacksaw, and cleaned up with a file if I didn't have the plasma cutter already sitting in the garage).

We are likely heading out that direction next weekend, though I don't see how we could fit 5 wheel & tire assemblies in a 2 door...

Rallyarmor

You could probably get a set of 5 take-off 16" base steel wheels (with tires and TPMS installed) for less than half that. Hell, I would sell you a set of 5 Big Bend take off wheels (with TPMS sensors and 13k mile tires) for $400 OBO. Located in Toledo. Edited to add link to my for sale...

Usually what will clear those faults is to turn the vehicle off, restart, then drive without sliding either end of the vehicle or spinning the tires until the faults clear. Cycling the ignition might not be needed in some cases - as you experienced when getting back on to the pavement (no...

In GOAT modes there are changes to: throttle, ESC/ABS/TC, transmission (auto only), and probably AWD (4A only) calibrations. Some vehicles also change steering calibration based on GOAT/Drive Mode setting - not sure if the Bronco does that or not.

Probably a signal plausibility fault (my guess would be steering wheel angle or yaw rate sensor). Once back on the road, everything matches back up and the fault can clear itself.

I might be willing to give you $100 for the rest of the top (to cut up and use to mount the front panels with the back open) rather than throwing it away.