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My Kicker Solobaric 12 (shallow) is 300W RMS per coil, 600W RMS total. The KEY500 is a great match. I do wish I had (2) 12s at times but that's in part because I have (2) Kicker CompR 12s in my Edge ST running on 1000W RMS at 2ohm in a slot ported box. Totally different animal but also a B&O...

I disconnected it in my 22 and in my wife's 23. Although the 23 had less rattle because of the revised panel clips, it still got tinny depending on what we listen too. In mine I keep the bass at the middle anyway or one notch below, sometimes 2. I have the gain on the KEY500 a little higher...

My sub box is sitting in the middle of the cargo area as close to the seats as I could get it. The box is shallow enough that I can lift the floor storage door without moving the box at all.

The B&O sub is 7.75". Some 8" will fit with less modification to the stock enclosure while others may require more. Ragnarkon has a video showing this. Ksjrb03's thread shows that a Kicker CompR 8 fits with less modification than what Ranarkon went with.

Thank you for that info on the repurpose of the speed sensitive setting. That is awesome. I plan to leave an access cable anyway but that feature gives me fingertip changes. I never used all 10 presets with the Sony products. We set up maybe 6 different presets and I only used 2 or 3. Most...

You will still need to run a minimum 8awg wire from the battery to the cargo area, and then a short ground which you can use the factory ground near the stock sub enclosure, if upgrading the B&O sub. If you do a separate sub box, then you want that ground to be as close as possible. If you put...

Go with that Kit 24, his price on the amp and harness is $20 ish less than buying the amp somewhere else. Either do the mods to add the 8" kicker sub, or an external. This is compact and sounds amazing considering: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20646TL122/Kicker-46TL7T122.html You may be...

In my 4 door B&O, I have not added any killmat anywhere. I have an external 12" Kicker Solo-baric powered by the Kicker KEY500 in a downfiring config. I have to go above 20 to here any rattle anywhere. I have the stock sub disconnected. My suggestion would be do the Kicker CompR 8 in the...

@gward6of8 IMO, replace the stock speakers, leave the stock amp / dsp. Add an external sub and amp, or at least replace stock sub and add the 500KEY amp. Either way use the plugnplaykits $70 wire harness to bypass the B&O sub amp. Mine sounds way better than stock. And I can compare it daily...

I can't wait to get the Mobridge Bronco kit with this amp. My separates are all done and I too have a Kicker Key500.1 already installed with an external sub. I want the control of the DSP for the separates and to upgrade my rears to 6.5/6.75. Only thing holding me back is the $$$$ 😆

@Hossfire I do believe it was a T20. I used a T20 driver as I couldn't get a T20 socket down in there. That accessory piece was a pain in the ass to pop out. Then the grill was a pain due to the underpinning of the dash pad and the length of the USB port housing. Once I got the whole thing...

I have a AudioControl LC2i Pro in my Edge. It took some time to get the AccuBass set right but it was worth it. That's feeding a JBL mono amp. I wish I had more crossover control for those subs but it's 2 12s in a slot ported box. I'm using AudioControls bass level knob on the LC2i Pro for...

I'm guessing you had the base audio system? I've never tuned at 2/3 volume. A friend of mine would do something similar but it always seems like the system ran out of headroom. He would typically have the gains maybe 5% lower than I liked. So I would add a little gain at a time at lower...

What did you go with? My first test drive was with 4 windows down. Clarity is way better and at say 18 on volume wind noise doesn't totally diminish sound. It does a little on the mid range but highs are still clear and my external sub performs. I also drove 4 windows down / front tops out...

If you have B&O (Lux) you'll need a pre A2B DSP like the moBridge DA-G2.Pro ahead of the DM-608. I've eyeballed the DM-608 for a couple years personally. But to deal with B&O DSP, you need an A2B specific processor first. The moBridge will then connect to your DM-608 via toslink / digital...

Start reading in this forum. Like pages deep. Many many posts about this. You will probably not get 'audiophile top of the line' without a separate sub box. But this one is a hell of a build so far. https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/stereo-overhaul-mild-documentation.70799/ You have...

I did do the KEY set up sweep after gain matching. I'm also taking my input signal pre-dsp/amp, not at the stock sub outputs.

@Ksjrb03 I want to thank you for your write-up and the numerous others here on B6G. I tackled my B&O system this weekend and I'm pretty happy with it. I've been studying for months and finally got everything together. I went with the JL C1 4" in the dash corners, PRV 4" in the center, JL C2...

We had a 4 door scheduled for 3/27. Never saw another email from Ford. It was delivered to the dealer on 4/4. After the schedule email on 2/2 I got a photo from our salesman that it arrived. 😆

(2) Moar doors here. One bought as a soft top (couldn't wait any longer), the second one order came in with a hard top. Swapped tops cause she likes the ease of the soft top. I drive mine a little more and wanted the hard top from day one. As was said before, now she has a convertible and...