12/13 UPDATE - Updated control arms not just for Sasquatch 33s fitting OBX - 33.2x11.2 (275/70r18) close to max size after Ranger testing

[jaruss01]

I must be missing something....every time I do BL build it adds $1595 (or so) to the price. How is it basically free on the BL. I do understand that its built into the price on the OBX, as it is on the Base 4DR and hope that there is a 2.7 price "correction" also on these particular trims.

2.7L auto upgrade is 1895 (auto tranny and engine) for all trims. It should either be more for non OBX trims, or less for the OBX trim. Since they confirmed 1,895 is accurate at last weeks event that means they may acknowledge the 1,895 should be less on the OBX in the upgrade B&P. As it was on the survey. The OBX base price already includes the cost of an auto. There are a few threads that go on at length about this.

People thought the 1895 was the cost of the engine only and they would add the cost of the tranny. The survey had a 3500 upgrade for the BL and 1600 for the OBX. Then the B&P just cut everything down the middle and made it 1895. BL guys thought they were basically getting a free tranny. And OBX guys were pissed because their upgrade cost was the same yet the base OBX price included an auto tranny on the 2.3. This is why the OBX feels overpriced and that is apparent when you build up an OBX compared to a BL.l.Ford may correct this. But for now it is what it is

Don’t want to side track this thread. There are other threads if you want more detail

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[timhood]

Interestingly enough my OBX build is a couple hundred MORE than my Badlands build after factoring in tires...both 2.7 lux

high gearing (800) leather (2200) vs MGV on BL, steel bumpers (825) aux switch (195), and the auto isn’t free on OBX like a BL...and tires....and boom, OBX build slightly exceeds a BL. I’m basically exchanging a BL lift, front lockers and a disco bar for painted exterior parts, power seats, and what else, rear cup holders, carpeted interior, and a more preferred grille.

Problem is, for my OBX build, If the tires end up rubbing...and/or if the car is too low for my taste (I have no idea since I can’t see it in person) and I need a lift I’m really going to be kicking myself. Because now I’m be spending $ on an aftermarket lift and spending thousands more than a BL. But to play devils advocate, if I got a BL I’d eventually spend 2k+ getting paintable parts, painting them, and swapping the grille and rails for tube steps. So both options come with another 2k potential spend.

unfortunately I just can’t bring myself to pair AMB with badlands. It’s a high polished look applied to a rugged trim.I’d have to swap grille and figure out everything else. If anything the Wildtrak is the safest pick since I get the body colored handles, and black grille.

im going to probably stick to my gut and get the OBX with big tires and a slight lift from the tires. That should slot the ride height halfway to a badlands (given tires are 1” bigger than stock OBX and half inch bigger than stock BL). I think anything taller than that, including the badlands, and my wife won’t be able to ever drive the car when need be. She is 5-2. She actually had to stop in the middle of test driving a grand Cherokee because she was nervous with the ride height. Go figure. Kind of wish she could see these vehicles in person. If she can’t drive even a slightly lifted OBX, then I might as well have gotten a Sasquatch for myself. But I just won’t know before I need to order. Argh

Definitely a dilemma, brought mostly because we are pre-ordering our vehicles and don't really have a chance to see things in person. I've worried about ride height as well, though my wife has a good height advantage over yours, taking a 2-foot step up to get in may not be what she is imagining. If I go BL, I will be relying partly on there being a stirrup option (a good way to spend those Ford points they're giving us), or at least an after-market solution. Since we're getting a two-door, the full length running boards seem really unnecessary, not to mention, I'm not overly-enthusiastic about the flat style. In the end, whatever we pick, I know we'll be happy with it as long as it's as reliable as our other Ford vehicles have been.

 

[Rebel Bronc]

I just read the last update again. My question has to do with 17” wheels. If I’m going to upgrade from oem tires, I want bigger than 285/70/17. What I’m interested in, is a 285/75/17.

So I need wheels with more offset. But I don’t want it to stick out and look goofy. If I ordered a Black Diamond I would replace the steelies anyway. How do I know how much more offset I need without it being excessive?

 

[Rebel Bronc]

Here is the difference between Black Diamond oem tires and what I would like:

 

[jaruss01]

Likely will need to mod crash bars. May be okay with stock offset. No telling for sure though

 

[Rebel Bronc]

I should probably just leave this to the professionals and just Sasquatch.

 

[jaruss01]

I should probably just leave this to the professionals and just Sasquatch.

Probably. Im not the answer man. Far from a suspension professional, just a finance guy with a past life as an architect. So I know numbers and have the software skills but the buck ends there I’m not Jesus to tell you what will and won’t fit. Just running what numbers are in front of me and sharing so people could make more informed decisions.

33.8 is pushing it without seeing all the limitations in person

 

[Rebel Bronc]

Well, with the latest bait and switch in the Build and Price, OBX with 285/70/18 rubber is looking like a more viable option. But the tire market seems pretty low on that size tire right now.

 

[jaruss01]

Yup. Already researching leveling kits. There's more room to "play" on the OBX compared to new BL pricing. I'd rather get an OBX interior with painted exterior bits, power seats, steel bumper, 33.2s etc plus maybe a levelling kit. $ for $ to a badlands. My gut reaction after the BL price jump was to get an OBX sas, but frankly, i dont even think i have the width to navigate around my house/driveway. i.e. i dont think I could fit my lawnmower between the house and the car to get access to my front yard. It's 7" wider than my outback. I have almost ~$2,500 to build up an OBX with aftermarket stuff if I dont go BL.

 

[stampede1]

Interestingly enough my OBX build is a couple hundred MORE than my Badlands build after factoring in tires...both 2.7 lux

high gearing (800) leather (2200) vs MGV on BL, steel bumpers (825) aux switch (195), and the auto isn’t free on OBX like a BL...and tires....and boom, OBX build slightly exceeds a BL. I’m basically exchanging a BL lift, front lockers and a disco bar for painted exterior parts, power seats, and what else, rear cup holders, carpeted interior, and a more preferred grille.

Problem is, for my OBX build, If the tires end up rubbing...and/or if the car is too low for my taste (I have no idea since I can’t see it in person) and I need a lift I’m really going to be kicking myself. Because now I’m be spending $ on an aftermarket lift and spending thousands more than a BL. But to play devils advocate, if I got a BL I’d eventually spend 2k+ getting paintable parts, painting them, and swapping the grille and rails for tube steps. So both options come with another 2k potential spend.

unfortunately I just can’t bring myself to pair AMB with badlands. It’s a high polished look applied to a rugged trim.I’d have to swap grille and figure out everything else. If anything the Wildtrak is the safest pick since I get the body colored handles, and black grille.

im going to probably stick to my gut and get the OBX with big tires and a slight lift from the tires. That should slot the ride height halfway to a badlands (given tires are 1” bigger than stock OBX and half inch bigger than stock BL). I think anything taller than that, including the badlands, and my wife won’t be able to ever drive the car when need be. She is 5-2. She actually had to stop in the middle of test driving a grand Cherokee because she was nervous with the ride height. Go figure. Kind of wish she could see these vehicles in person. If she can’t drive even a slightly lifted OBX, then I might as well have gotten a Sasquatch for myself. But I just won’t know before I need to order. Argh

Now that the mod tops are back in play, are you going with one of them or sticking to the mic?

 

[jaruss01]

Now that the mod tops are back in play, are you going with one of them or sticking to the mic?

I have a Day 1 reservation, with a lease exp. end of August, so probably not messing around with that stuff. Maybe if we know more before March then I'll do it.

 

[stampede1]

I have a Day 1 reservation, with a lease exp. end of August, so probably not messing around with that stuff. Maybe if we know more before March then I'll do it.

I am still leaning heavily to AMB and the body color top replacing the mic eliminates all but one contrast (fenders on the SASQ). I think if the black mod top on there with AMB it will detract from the body color. It already looks black pretty often. decisions, decisions...

 

[jaruss01]

I LOVE the look of the MIC top and big sas fenders, with everything else painted AMB. I hate the idea of matching the BL grille with all the other silver/unpainted pieces. OBX non-sas with MIC top only leaves the cowl and mirror stems to match the MIC, so it's not horrible. I am also coming to my senses that an AMB or black mod top (while preferred to the MIC) is probably a really bad idea when it comes to upkeep, scratches. I dont want the fear of scratching a black top to factor into my decision to regularly take the tops off. I like the idea of quickly removing a mic front panels and tossing it in the trunk with a towel.

 

[jaruss01]

Think of it this way - if 75% of your driving is 5 miles to run to the store, etc. At least it is for me. Will you carefully take off the front painted panels and lay them down with all the proper coverage? Probably not. But with a MIC top, chances are much higher. I dont want to find myself not wanting to take off the front panels 75% of the time.

 

[drive21bronco]

12/13 update. Ford updated upper control arms on sas have been identified on big bend! They are not carried over from ranger and protrude less. Ranger guys have fitment issues due to this and it looks like Ford has improved on this. They shaved off what looks like almost 1/4” from the lip of the control arm



Does this mean that the Base Bronco share the control arm with the Ranger? And what does that mean for people going with a Base? Harder to fit bigger tires? Does the different control arm on Big Bend through FE give the truck a higher stance in the front or just better tire clearance? From photos I have seen the Big Bend looks to sit higher in the Front and more level then the base. I know it has 32" tires but is that really changing the look that much? And like I said it just seems more level where the base seems to really dip in the front. Maybe its just the photos playing tricks on me.

Sorry if this was addressed in this thread I have read most of it but cannot find this answer.

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