2” SVC perch lift vs. 2” Zone spacer

[RainbowStix]

Well, these replies are exactly what I expected. Some think the perch lift is better, some think spacers are great and some think a hybrid lift is better.
There probably is a definitive answer as to what 2" lift is best in all respects for a non-sas Badlands that will get used off-road a lot, but doubt I'd find it without trying all of them personally......I can't do that. I'm not spending thousands of $ to change out what is already a fabulous suspension to go new coilovers either.
Probably the best answer is to leave it stock since my choice in tires works quite well as is....but, I can't really leave anything stock!
Thanks for all the replies/suggestions......that's exactly what I asked for!
Have a great weekend!
n

haha, yeah there’s a lot of misinformation out there when it comes to suspension. People echoing what suspension companies tell them to push new coilovers, people knowing what they know about one platform and applying it to the rest, or people that simply don’t know what they’re talking about and are echoing others that equally don’t know what they’re talking about. It’s one thing to wrench on your truck, and actually understand what it is you’re doing to the truck. Most fall in the first category.
It’s up to you to decide who’s full of doodoo and who’s not

 

[AMTRV]

Absolutely nothing wrong with that. Just be ready for a slightly rougher ride but nothing crazy. Also I'd assume that the 33s will look small after the lift so you'll probably want to step things up.

I’ve Kenda RT 35/10.50 17s on it currently

 

[Raptor.Tremor.Bronco]

I’ve Kenda RT 35/10.50 17s on it currently

Oh ok then that'll be perfect

 

[SnowBronco]

I've got the 2.25" SVC perch collar lift on mine. 2" out back. Does ride slightly stiffer, but not bad or harsh at all. Still have the same amount of wheel travel I had before, but combined with 35x12.5x17" Toyos it gets me a bit over 3" more ground clearance. Looks way bigger to on my badlands! I love them so far. Still getting 19+ mpg too. Which I'm pleasently surprised about.

 

[Ford2201]

[QUOTEM="F OR D, post: 1490683, member: 19795"]
this? SVCOFFROAD 2021 Ford Bronco Coil Spacers – SVC Offroad

how do you,

this? SVCOFFROAD 2021 Ford Bronco Coil Spacers – SVC Offroad

how do you like it? looks great!

Thanks!
Yes that’s the kit. Installed in a few hours including beer breaks. The kit actually reduced brake dive by stiffing up the front end. No harsh ride, still as smooth as factory.

 

[Lurker B6G]

The zone lift will ruin your suspension geometry and performance while the svc or any perch collar for that matter will keep things in spec

Unfortunately this is not correct.

The geometry will be EXACTLY THE SAME if you use a spacer only, a spring preload only, or a combination of both to achieve the lift.

There are however a couple of important differences:

1) If you add spacers, you will then be susceptible to a final CV angle (maximum droop) that is higher than before the lift was added. If you added too much spacer lift this maximum droop could cause binding. If you look at the kits that are being sold, you will find that they are pushing this to the absolute limit. IMO standard suspensions can handle up to about 2.5", and Bilstein suspensions can handle up to about 1.3" of spacer lift.

2) If you add spring preloads you will stiffen the ride (which may be fine) and you will reduce the amount of downward travel available. Limiting the downward travel means that you will not be susceptible to the issues associated with the final CV angel, since the maximum angle will be the same as before the lift. For the standard suspension the net result will be just as stated above. For the Bilstein suspensions you will have the added issue of moving the resting (neutral) point downward towards the end stop control valve (ESCV) range. With a very small preload (1" or less) this may not be much of a concern. But with large preloads such as 2.25" the resting point is at the top of the ESCV range, and the shock will have significantly increased resistance to all downward travel. Most people have not been too worked up about this, but in fact it would be better not to have an ESCV shock if you intend to use a lot of spring preload on it.

(PLEASE NOTE: #2 should actually be to the right of #1 closer to the upper valve - which is the downward limiter - but the idea is the same. Upward shock travel is actually increased, but this is not generally useful since the tire has no where to go, and in fact an upwards limiter is needed to protect for this issue ).

While driving around all of the angles will be exactly the SAME no matter which lift style you use (exotics excluded). If a wheel becomes fully unloaded it will droop the amount of the spacer lift more than it could before the lift. But it will also will have less downward travel in the same amount as the preload lift (2.25" of less downward travel is not an insignificant loss).

For the standard suspensions, it will be very hard to go wrong either way without pushing to the extremes.

For the Bilstein suspensions, it will be very easy to go wrong. My current favorite (for the reasons above) is the Zone 1221 kit with 1.5 inches of spacer and 0.5 inches of spring preload.

The moral of the story is that there is no free lunch. In my opinion the hybrid kits are the better choice to avoid the pitfalls of either method alone. But keep thing reasonable, and all should be just fine.

 

[AMTRV]

Thanks Lurker! Although I have to admit that I don’t completely follow the reasoning, I certainly don’t doubt it.
I don’t actually need any lift to run the 35/10.50 17s and BD steelies on my non-SAS Badlands……I may not use the SVC 2.25 perch lift that I bought……we shall see.

 

[Big Diamond]

I put the SVC perches on my 2-door. Simple install and perfect amount of lift to add 285/75R17 on factory steelies

How is the ride quality been for you? I have the same size tires on Black Diamond steelies and haven't done anything with the suspension yet.

Edit: Read above that it's just a touch stiffer. I think I'm going to jump on this. I was worried the 285/75/17's would look a touch small with 2 inches of lift, but this looks perfect.

 

[Ford2201]

How is the ride quality been for you? I have the same size tires on Black Diamond steelies and haven't done anything with the suspension yet.

Edit: Read above that it's just a touch stiffer. I think I'm going to jump on this. I was worried the 285/75/17's would look a touch small with 2 inches of lift, but this looks perfect.

Thanks, it rides great. The brake dip in the front end is stiffer and more controlled. Before the lift it would dip pretty easily. Rides same as stock in turns.
I was also concerned with the 33’s. I didn’t want/need the Sasquatch package but I like the larger tire. This is the perfect compromise and combo for my needs. Bigger that stock. Aggressive enough for off-road and beach driving. Keeping the steelies keeps the outer part of the tire under the flare so no road wash on the side of the truck. I’m not a fan of the poke look. 2” is the perfect stance for the 33’s. Go for it. You won’t be disappointed

 

[Big Diamond]

Thanks, it rides great. The brake dip in the front end is stiffer and more controlled. Before the lift it would dip pretty easily. Rides same as stock in turns.
I was also concerned with the 33’s. I didn’t want/need the Sasquatch package but I like the larger tire. This is the perfect compromise and combo for my needs. Bigger that stock. Aggressive enough for off-road and beach driving. Keeping the steelies keeps the outer part of the tire under the flare so no road wash on the side of the truck. I’m not a fan of the poke look. 2” is the perfect stance for the 33’s. Go for it. You won’t be disappointed

Thanks for confirming. I'm going for it!

Our tire size is closer to a 34 (33.8)
The stock Sasquatch tire is 34.6 so we're less than an inch smaller than that one.

I'll post some pics here when I get it done.

 

[cpmartin1999]

Unfortunately this is not correct.

The geometry will be EXACTLY THE SAME if you use a spacer only, a spring preload only, or a combination of both to achieve the lift.

There are however a couple of important differences:

1) If you add spacers, you will then be susceptible to a final CV angle (maximum droop) that is higher than before the lift was added. If you added too much spacer lift this maximum droop could cause binding. If you look at the kits that are being sold, you will find that they are pushing this to the absolute limit. IMO standard suspensions can handle up to about 2.5", and Bilstein suspensions can handle up to about 1.3" of spacer lift.

2) If you add spring preloads you will stiffen the ride (which may be fine) and you will reduce the amount of downward travel available. Limiting the downward travel means that you will not be susceptible to the issues associated with the final CV angel, since the maximum angle will be the same as before the lift. For the standard suspension the net result will be just as stated above. For the Bilstein suspensions you will have the added issue of moving the resting (neutral) point downward towards the end stop control valve (ESCV) range. With a very small preload (1" or less) this may not be much of a concern. But with large preloads such as 2.25" the resting point is at the top of the ESCV range, and the shock will have significantly increased resistance to all downward travel. Most people have not been too worked up about this, but in fact it would be better not to have an ESCV shock if you intend to use a lot of spring preload on it.

(PLEASE NOTE: #2 should actually be to the right of #1 closer to the upper valve - which is the downward limiter - but the idea is the same. Upward shock travel is actually increased, but this is not generally useful since the tire has no where to go, and in fact an upwards limiter is needed to protect for this issue ).

While driving around all of the angles will be exactly the SAME no matter which lift style you use (exotics excluded). If a wheel becomes fully unloaded it will droop the amount of the spacer lift more than it could before the lift. But it will also will have less downward travel in the same amount as the preload lift (2.25" of less downward travel is not an insignificant loss).

For the standard suspensions, it will be very hard to go wrong either way without pushing to the extremes.

For the Bilstein suspensions, it will be very easy to go wrong. My current favorite (for the reasons above) is the Zone 1221 kit with 1.5 inches of spacer and 0.5 inches of spring preload.

The moral of the story is that there is no free lunch. In my opinion the hybrid kits are the better choice to avoid the pitfalls of either method alone. But keep thing reasonable, and all should be just fine.

Im not finding this exact lift? do you have a link or more specific way to find the exact lift?

 

[Lurker B6G]

Im not finding this exact lift? do you have a link or more specific way to find the exact lift?

Search for ZONF1221

 

[texasmark04]

Search for ZONF1221

I'm running this exact lift on my 22' OBX Sas 4-door. I even upgraded to 37" Mickey Thompson's with new wheels with +1 offset. Love the new setup, have driven highway over 80mph, no problems: Picture below of new setup.

 

[acetdeucy]

I didn't realize the zone kit also had perch collars. It doesn't really make sense to do it that way instead of simply gaining all the height by preload besides the slightly negative effect on ride quality. If you don't think adding a spacer changed geometry you are a fool, that's exactly what the spacer does. I work on trucks all the time with spacers and it's a nightmare because everything is bound up and colliding. I don't know whether or not the zone kit will do this but if it's like the other 99% of spacer kits it'll bind. If it's a street driven vehicle, spacers are ok but of its going offroad they shouldn't even be a consideration since there are alternatives at similar price point that do the same thing much better. High performance offroad suspension is my specialty so it kinda triggers me when someone takes a nice suspension setup with some good shocks and messes it all up with a cheapo lift. It's like putting high heels on an Olympic runner.

OK... here's some more truth about these two common types of lift...

1. The PERCH style lift will leave you with a stiffer suspension; and
2. The Zone 2-1 hybrid lift and level, will have you chasing a fix for the geometry that's being altered (I picked the Zone):

I've already chased the geometry issue, and I just posted a copy of the problem... and my fix... this morning. SEE BELOW:

MODS... BOTH PRICEY AND LESS PRICEY... INSTALLER IN SD | Bronco6G - 2021+ Ford Bronco & Bronco Raptor Forum, News, Blog & Owners Community

 

[colonelburke]

Now I will throw an alternative in here. What about the Hoss 3.0? do you level it? Can you level it? Should you level it? I do not like the front rake on trucks so I have leveled all of my trucks. I was thinking of ordering this suspension when I order my Bronco in January. Trying to get my ducks in a row. Thanks.

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