2.3 EcoBoost Engine - The Details You Should Know

[Werkedperformance]

Idk, on my engines we just let it go to the air with old school crankcase vents. But we run up 50# of boost (PSIA) so there is no way to except turbo inlet and don’t it in an inner cooler.

what is IMAP on the 2.3 ?

20ish stock

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[L8apex]

Air intake -> Air box -> Air filter -> Turbo Compressor -> Intercooler -> Throttle body -> Intake manifold -> cylinders -> Turbine

I know in most conversations the turbo references both the turbine/compressor, but when discussing the air path on a car forum we can be pedantic.

Turbine takes work out of the fluid.
Compressor puts work into the fluid.

 

[nomnom]

I’ve owned cars with turbo direct injection engines, catch cans will save gunk build up by providing a place for blow by oils to be caught (catch can) before recirculating to be re-burned. Manufacturers have to do this to meet emission rules.

i will be installing a catch can as early as possible. Maintenance would be just having to empty the van every time you do an oil change, NBD.

 

[Moparguy]

I hate those 15 minutes videos! those are the reason why I am still on forums and not on YouTube, more and more threads here are becoming like this post, you go to read and you have to watch a 15 minutes video to get something that if was written, it will take you 2 minutes to read it.

 

[IXxMcCoyxXl]

Anyone put any thought into oil catch cans on the 2.3L since it is direct injection?

This will be the first engine that I've owned that doesn't spray fuel into the intake manifold. Worried about the PCV value shooting junk into my intake manifold/values that won't get naturally cleaned out by fuel.

putting one into mine if it ever decides to show up

 

[Hornet]

He mentioned something about taking care of the turbo.... Iis there information or video on that?

 

[ausherpharmd]

On combustion engines, some air pressure from the cylinder can get through the piston rings into the crankcase. This is known as blow-by, and some amount of blow-by is natural for an engine, especially a turbocharged engine.

There is a pressure stabilization component called the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) system, that regulates the air pressure in your crankcase. In short... this system routes excess pressure from the crankcase back into the intake manifold. That excess air can contain pollutants (primarily oil & other carbons) from your crankcase... and those pollutants simply get dumped into your intake manifold.

On vehicles that inject fuel into the intake manifold--which is most post-carberatur vehicles on the market--this usually isn't a huge deal because the fuel acts almost like a natural cleaning solvent to help keep the intake manifold & intake valves clean. But the 2.3L EcoBoost in the Bronco has direct fuel injection... fuel is injected directly into the cylinder instead of the intake manifold. So there is nothing there to clean the intake manifold and intake valves to ensure there isn't an excess of carbon build-up.

An oil catch can is an extra component that goes between the PCV and intake manifold to that is design to catch all of that extra pollutants before the air gets sent back into the intake manifold. Which, in theory, should keep your intake manifold/valves free of unnecessary carbon buildup.

Thanks for the explanation. I remember an older thread where there was a lot of disagreement. Lots of people thought it was completely unnecessary and ridiculous and then the other half thought it was a must. I think I'm going to do it.

 

[TiredOldMedic]

This guy knows his shit!

 

[Andy6GRealG]

Not saying this about soon to be or already Bronco owners but normally the reason catch cans aren’t installed from the factory on turbos with DPI is because most people aren’t very knowledgeable about cars and people would not take the time or understanding of the process of emptying a catch can. It would also be another part the builders would have to warranty. It sounds to me like most on the thread understand the concept and understanding of what role a catch can performs, however, there is still a debate to can or not to can. It sounds like personal preference at this point. I didn’t see it in the threads and I was skimming mostly, but with the 2.7 having a non dpi setup will that have the potential carbon buildup like the 2.3? Thanks for the info

 

[BrentC]

….

Also not exactly sure what one poster was talking about finding “crud” in his AOS the way the system works is it re-condenses oil vapor. So you aren’t going to find foreign debris in the system unless you have a serious mechanical issue.

That would be my comment, and I apologize for not being more precise. The crud would actually be an emulsion which forms predominantly in our cold winters due to water condensing in the cold lines. The contents of the can in the summer months is primarily fuel and oil.

The discussion has got me thinking about the break-in process of new engines. With my race motorcycles I do a hard break-in, where you repeatedly apply WOT followed by full throttle chop. The theory is that, because of the very tight manufacturing tolerances that can be achieved with modern manufacturing, the piston ring/cylinder wall gap is very small. With the hard alloys used in making these parts, the knurling on the rings is much lighter than in days past.

What this means is you have less time to properly seat the rings with the cylinder and therefore need to put strong pressure on both sides of the piston (hard acceleration/deceleration) in the early running minutes, before the knurling in the rings wears off or glazes, to push the rings into the cylinders and properly seat them.

Typically I do this technique for the first 40kms of run time, dump the oil to look for evidence of any issues, replace the oil and new filter and you’re ready to go.

I have done this with 4 brand-new motorcycles with very good results. Note that this is the exact opposite of the break-in procedure recommended from the manufacturers (Yamaha, Suzuki and Kawasaki) but endorsed by the racing community.

My knowledge of turbo engines is weaker than with bike engines so I’m curious what others in the know think of the hard vs. soft break-in procedure for the Bronco.

Thanks!

This is the procedure I’ve used, both on track and on street.

http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
(note the pictures of the pistons and rings at the bottom of the article)

 

[Bronco cat]

That would be my comment, and I apologize for not being more precise. The crud would actually be an emulsion which forms predominantly in our cold winters due to water condensing in the cold lines. The contents of the can in the summer months is primarily fuel and oil.

The discussion has got me thinking about the break-in process of new engines. With my race motorcycles I do a hard break-in, where you repeatedly apply WOT followed by full throttle chop. The theory is that, because of the very tight manufacturing tolerances that can be achieved with modern manufacturing, the piston ring/cylinder wall gap is very small. With the hard alloys used in making these parts, the knurling on the rings is much lighter than in days past.

What this means is you have less time to properly seat the rings with the cylinder and therefore need to put strong pressure on both sides of the piston (hard acceleration/deceleration) in the early running minutes, before the knurling in the rings wears off or glazes, to push the rings into the cylinders and properly seat them.

Typically I do this technique for the first 40kms of run time, dump the oil to look for evidence of any issues, replace the oil and new filter and you’re ready to go.

I have done this with 4 brand-new motorcycles with very good results. Note that this is the exact opposite of the break-in procedure recommended from the manufacturers (Yamaha, Suzuki and Kawasaki) but endorsed by the racing community.

My knowledge of turbo engines is weaker than with bike engines so I’m curious what others in the know think of the hard vs. soft break-in procedure for the Bronco.

Thanks!

This is the procedure I’ve used, both on track and on street.

http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
(note the pictures of the pistons and rings at the bottom of the article)

I would totally agree with everything you are saying and I’ve always had good luck using a similar break in on my cars. I’ve always seen reduced or no oil consumption compared to other vehicles and also increased fuel mileage and the vehicles just generally run better.

 

[Mr. Nice]

Modern direct injection engines are designed with full knowledge of expected crankcase pressures. The Ford DI engines have two systems that cope with this crankcase over pressures. one operates at lower power and the other operates when the turbo is spooled up. Catch cans are generally attached to the low speed PCV system (which has an included air/oil separator) and thus are only valved in during the low speed engine operation when the blowby to the crankcase is least and so provide no benefit during boost. These engines have another system built-in to deal with crankcase over-pressures during the boost regime obviates the need for an after market catch can.

I have to disagree here. First off I have a can/box in both my sports cars, one turbo and the other is a NA non-direct inject.
You would not believe the gunk that come out of the can on the turbo car. The NA car only catches a small amount of oil.

You definitely don't want ANY of what I catch running back into your intake system. Why would you? Are you forgetting about the performance benefits of not retarding the timing due to detonation? Or limiting the possibilities from engine damage from detonation?

Seeing is believing...

From Summit Racing
Engine Detonation

Definition & Description
Detonation is spontaneous combustion inside the cylinder AFTER the spark plug fires. It is similar to Pre-Ignition, but it is different.
During normal ignition, the spark plug fires just before the piston reaches TDC. The flame travels across the combustion chamber igniting the Air/Fuel Mixture. This causes a steady increase in cylinder pressure and forces the piston down on the Power Stroke.
When detonation happens, some of the air/fuel ignites before the normal burn can get to it. This causes a brief, but intense, spike in cylinder pressure.
Detonation is also called an "Engine Knock", "Knocking", or "Pinging" because of the sound it makes.
How is it indicated?
Knocking or pinging sound
Drop in Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT)
Broken piston rings and/or spark plugs
Damage to the piston and/or valves
What causes it?
Detonation can be caused by several factors. A few common causes are:
Over-Advanced Ignition Timing
If Ignition Timing is too far advanced, the spark plug fires too soon. This causes the flame to end early. The remaining fuel can detonate.
Lean Air/Fuel Mixture
A rich Air/Fuel Mixture runs cooler than a lean mixture. A lean mixture can get too hot and detonate.
Too Much Compression
Compression causes heat. If the air/fuel mixture is compressed too much, it can detonate.
Engine Overheating
Low coolant or a bad water pump can cause the engine to overheat. Too much heat can cause the air/fuel in the chamber to detonate.
Low Octane Fuel
Octane Rating is a measure of "knock resistance". Switching to higher grade fuel can help a knocking engine.
How does it affect performance?
An engine is designed to work in a specific way. Because detonation interrupts that design, it robs the engine of power.
Most engines can handle some minor detonation. Modern, fuel injected engines can sense a knock and adjust the Air/Fuel Ratio and Ignition Timing. However, if the detonation is not fixed, it will damage the engine. Just one major detonation event could cause significant damage.

 

[Tricky Dick]

That would be my comment, and I apologize for not being more precise. The crud would actually be an emulsion which forms predominantly in our cold winters due to water condensing in the cold lines. The contents of the can in the summer months is primarily fuel and oil.

The discussion has got me thinking about the break-in process of new engines. With my race motorcycles I do a hard break-in, where you repeatedly apply WOT followed by full throttle chop. The theory is that, because of the very tight manufacturing tolerances that can be achieved with modern manufacturing, the piston ring/cylinder wall gap is very small. With the hard alloys used in making these parts, the knurling on the rings is much lighter than in days past.

What this means is you have less time to properly seat the rings with the cylinder and therefore need to put strong pressure on both sides of the piston (hard acceleration/deceleration) in the early running minutes, before the knurling in the rings wears off or glazes, to push the rings into the cylinders and properly seat them.

Typically I do this technique for the first 40kms of run time, dump the oil to look for evidence of any issues, replace the oil and new filter and you’re ready to go.

I have done this with 4 brand-new motorcycles with very good results. Note that this is the exact opposite of the break-in procedure recommended from the manufacturers (Yamaha, Suzuki and Kawasaki) but endorsed by the racing community.

My knowledge of turbo engines is weaker than with bike engines so I’m curious what others in the know think of the hard vs. soft break-in procedure for the Bronco.

Thanks!

This is the procedure I’ve used, both on track and on street.

http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
(note the pictures of the pistons and rings at the bottom of the article)

I've also broken in a motorcycle that way for that reason. It seemed to work well. I think I'm going to stay closer to the recommendation this time, I've mellowed out a bit from those days.

 

[VelocityBrew]

CAVitation

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