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2.7l and 10 speed reliabilty, turbos shot at 40k

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Funkdoobiest

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Ecoboosts are hard on oil. 7500-10K is WAY too long even with a good synthetic. Used oil analysis on these engines show 5W-30 shearing to 15W or lower after longer oil change intervals. For peace of mind, I strongly recommend using a full synthetic 5W-30 and changing it every 5K miles with a Motorcraft or other quality filter (hint, don’t ever run a Fram on these or anything you care about).

I’m personally going to run Pennzoil Ultra Euro 5W-40 in my 2.3 Bronco and change the oil/filter every 6K. Rotate the tires every 3K. Easy to remember. Same oil that’s going to be in my JL Rubicon Ecodiesel as well. Same oil change interval/tire rotation schedule planned for that vehicle too. Fresh air filters are also important to keep grit from going through the turbos. Change the air filter every 25-30K tops if it’s your daily driver and change them more frequently if you’re in dusty conditions a lot. Spark plugs every 30K is wise as well.

The Focus RS 2.3 owner’s manual specs 5W-30 for daily driving and 15W-50 for track use. I’m going to be driving my Bronco in a...spirited manner regularly so I figure 5W-40 is a good compromise.
Good info on the focus. Any concern though about the Euro spec oil in the 2.3l, considering the direct injection and propensity for valve deposits? Not saying I would, I just don't know much about Euro spec oil and if there has been any issues with it.
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MSparks909

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Good info on the focus. Any concern though about the Euro spec oil in the 2.3l, considering the direct injection and propensity for valve deposits? Not saying I would, I just don't know much about Euro spec oil and if there has been any issues with it.
I know a lot of gas euro cars spec it and they’re direct injection so I’m sure it’s fine. It’s a low ash formula that’s supposed to help prevent DPF clogs on the new Ecodiesel. I think any 0W-40 or 5W-40 synthetic would be fine, I’m just using this specific oil so I can stock 1 type of oil for both vehicles. 5W-30 synthetic is fine too but I personally would stick to 5K oil change intervals with that weight oil. IGNORE the oil life monitor and when it tells you to change it! More frequent changes on a turbo engine is cheap insurance.

As far as valve deposits go, I’m planning on a catch can from day 1, good quality 93 octane gas, full synthetic oil and I’ll check the valves for deposits around ~50K. I can always have the valves walnut blasted if need be to clean them up
 
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I would love to have the twin turbo, but I plan on keeping my bronco long term. For all my mechanic brothers we know what it takes to replace those turbos. But it’ll definitely be a hell of a lot of fun before they go out. Just drove a Ford F-150 2.7 and my god it had me almost forking out the money for a bronco 2.7.
My old boss had a 2.7 f150 and that's why I went for the 2.7 on my bronco it's nowhere near as quick as my dad's 5.7 tundra but it's plenty quick for me
 

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I would never recommend Pennsoil in a turbo application.
 
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At temperature, it thins out to a water consistency. I've never seen any other oil do it. Lubricity properties are still there, but those bearings are spinning at 120,000+ rpm. On my RC jet engines (use same shaft/ compressor wheels and bearings), if you used an oil with a viscosity that low, it will void the warranty immediately. There's no margin of error when the oils start to break down. Its like less than zero weigh oil, but without the premium additives that make it work.
 

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Quite disheartening news for potential Bronco owners.I hope they have worked out the bugs prior to this new vehicle delivery. The capital riot will be pale in comparison to one on Ford ,if this problem goes south. Maybe they just got a bad batch of turbos.
 

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This has been covered before, but I would suggest whatever oil you choose, make sure it meets the newest standards that include DI specific features if you run the 2.3L. 2.7 uses both DI and Port, so probably not as critical. The Mobil One batch I bought last had it, prior did not, so be mindful of whatever you buy. This is from API
The improved performance gains from licensed ILSAC GF-6A, ILSAC GF-6B and API SP with Resource Conserving oils will help vehicles meet fuel economy standards. These motor oils under the new standard will also provide greater turbocharger protection to benefit current and future engines, including engines designed to operate on ethanol-containing fuels up to E85. API SP oils are also designed to provide protection against low-speed pre-ignition (LSPI), a phenomenon common to gasoline direct injection (GDI) turbocharged engines.

Fuel and fuel quality has nothing to do with carbon buildup on DI engines (2.3L), other than it never crosses the valves to matter, which ironically, is the problem with DI. Octane rating also has nothing to do with engine deposits, but better quality fuel can potentially have additives that keep your engine cleaner. Multiple actual tests fail to show much difference. I prefer very high volume stations, built recently. Water in fuel is the biggest problem for engines these days and the higher the ethanol content, the more likely the problem. YMMV

https://www.api.org/news-policy-and...-oil-standards-good-for-consumers-environment
 

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sooo for someone who doesn't know anything about this - what do I tell them to give me at Valvoline and how often do I go? 2.7L
 

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whatever oil you choose, make sure it meets the newest standards that include DI specific features
How does Ford's Bronco spec oil stack up? Motorcraft SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Blend Motor Oil
 

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At temperature, it thins out to a water consistency. I've never seen any other oil do it. Lubricity properties are still there, but those bearings are spinning at 120,000+ rpm. On my RC jet engines (use same shaft/ compressor wheels and bearings), if you used an oil with a viscosity that low, it will void the warranty immediately. There's no margin of error when the oils start to break down. Its like less than zero weigh oil, but without the premium additives that make it work.
Viscosity is viscosity. It's a measurement against spec and doesn't differ between brands. Now some brands hold up better against heat and wear due to additive packages but it sounds to me like you're talking out your butt.
 

azbittel

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On my second turbo on my Chevy Trax. less than 30,000. More complicated = More problems. Give me a big block all day, every day. Luckily, I don't live in Cali where there will be no oil burners in a few years while they can't even keep the lights on...
If you want a big block NA engine, why re you driving a shitty chevy trax? Thats about as far as you can get from a truck with a V8...
 

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How does Ford's Bronco spec oil stack up? Motorcraft SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Blend Motor Oil
Last I heard, the 5-30 blend packaged in 1 and 5qt retail was GF5 not GF6. The bulk was starting to come through with the GF6 spec. The Motorcraft website still list the 5w-30 at GF5. Seems odd to me, I would look at the listing on the retail package. It’s an important rating and Inwould try and use something compliant (as long as it meets all other Ford requirements, which Inwould assume and GF6 compliant oil would). It has been my go to for years and never had an oil related failure. Once I had the turbo engines, I went Mobil 1 (and verified GF6 prior to use in my sons 2.3l Ranger). Mostly because of the price and availability is universal, not a Mobil 1 fanboy per se.
 

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If you want a big block NA engine, why re you driving a shitty chevy trax? Thats about as far as you can get from a truck with a V8...
Have one in my Sierra. Trax is for the commute and wife to drive.
 

Rick Astley

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A lot of talk about turbo failures (which are shockingly common on the 2.7, considering it's usage), and oil, but I am having a hard time finding anyone differentiating "synthetic" oils by their characteristics. Simply as one giant bucket where somehow all synthetics are approximately identical.

Zinc has been a significant component to the overall health of a turbo for many years.

Some basic info from Amsoil regarding DI and turbocharged applications here: https://blog.amsoil.com/how-turbochargers-and-direct-injection-are-changing-the-industry/

Forced Performance, out of Plano TX, (where they do all their design, build and testing) has been recommending high-zinc synthetic motor oils for almost a decade now.

Their article from 2010 still holds weight to this day, especially regarding bearing failure on turbocharged applications:

Zinc has also been a factor in reducing metal wear on 60's higher-tolerance motors for some time now, with engine builders making more power and reducing engine wear.

Bob Is The Oil Guy is a fantastic resource for observing others who get their oil tested. I've had the last few oil changes on our '19 Ranger tested with Blackstone Labs and am using Amsoil High-Zinc formula oil and having good wear characteristics with it at a 7,500 change interval. In my '61 Thunderbird with built Ford-Edsel 390 I run Kendall Liquid Titanium GT-1 high-zinc in 20w50 (standard oil weight for these motors but seems outlandish to those who only know modern motors)

Amsoil's recommendation for boosted, direct injection engines that containes higher zinc content:

https://www.amsoil.com/p/xl-5w-30-synthetic-motor-oil-xlf/
Ford Bronco 2.7l and 10 speed reliabilty, turbos shot at 40k OIL-005-600x600[1]


The Kendall offering for my 60's car.

Note that I removed the oil filter and lines from my '51 Fleetline, so it's a non-filtered engine setup and I do a change every year regardless of mileage and absolutely will NOT use a synthetic oil on that generation of engine as they are too slick and you'll cause leaks/wear all over the place (typically less than 5K miles as she's a fickle mistress)
Ford Bronco 2.7l and 10 speed reliabilty, turbos shot at 40k 1074969[1]


Anyway, time for somebody to chime in that they only buy oil at Walmart and will only use 1998-spec Mobil-1 cheap-synthetic......
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