2.7L Oil Change Question

Desert_6G

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I changed the oil the other day and today was the first time I drive it since. It was a short trip like 7 miles. I noticed a oil leak on the asphalt. Looked underneath and it was coming from the oil plug. It was clipped or clicked in place like it should so it wasn't going anywhere. But there is enough side to side movement that it was letting oil slowly leak out. I drained the oil and tried to reposition it but whatever I it still wiggles slightly. Anyone else have this issue or know of a fix? I was talking a trip tomorrow and this really messes it up if I can't find a fix today.


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DoUSquatch

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Are you using the same yellow plug and did you replace the rubber O ring seals around the oil plug with new ones?

I suggest going after market and getting a metal oil plug w/ the built in drain cap/lever. Also, I've noticed the plug twists into place securely but you have to twist it further to tighten the seal.

Address that issue before driving the Bronc again, a loose oil plug can throw off the oil pressure and cause internal damage if not replaced properly. Good luck!
 
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Desert_6G

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I concur on the after market ....Wiggling is bad!!
I know right. Once it's clicked in you can screw it on any further. Is anyone else's plug a little loosey goosey?
 

DoUSquatch

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I know right. Once it's clicked in you can screw it on any further. Is anyone else's plug a little loosey goosey?

No wiggling after I changed my oil.. but I also went aftermarket for the oil plug. It was a PIA to unscrew the old yellow and screw a new oil plug back in, I'd suggest going A.M. getting the oil plug with the drain cap.

*** Side note: gingerly twist past the initial locking of the plug, don't use a huge amount of force but do twist further, the fitment of the plug screwed into the oil pan feels like a 2 step engagement process, if that makes sense.

Worst case scenario, threads within the oil pan are damaged and you'll need to replace the oil pan itself.
Good luck.
 

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Tarheel_Wes

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No wiggling after I changed my oil.. but I also went aftermarket for the oil plug. It was a PIA to unscrew the old yellow and screw a new oil plug back in, I'd suggest going A.M. getting the oil plug with the drain cap.

*** Side note: gingerly twist past the initial locking of the plug, don't use a huge amount of force but do twist further, the fitment of the plug screwed into the oil pan feels like a 2 step engagement process, if that makes sense.

Worst case scenario, threads within the oil pan are damaged and you'll need to replace the oil pan itself.
Good luck.
Which aftermarket plug did you go with?
 

DogHauler

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Did you spill oil anywhere when you did the oil change?

I'm on my 8th oil change on my 5.0 and never changed the drain plug or o-rings, still dry.

Those aftermarket metal drain plugs look like a disaster waiting to happen if something hits it considering the plastic oil pan.
 

DoUSquatch

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Did you spill oil anywhere when you did the oil change?

I'm on my 8th oil change on my 5.0 and never changed the drain plug or o-rings, still dry.

Those aftermarket metal drain plugs look like a disaster waiting to happen if something hits it considering the plastic oil pan.

IIRC there's a metal plate covering the oil pan & plug itself, so the plug isn't exposed.

I was forewarned that the oil flies out, I bought an oversized pan to catch the oil.
 

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DoUSquatch

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What was wrong with the oil drain plug that was good for 80 years ? Is this progress.

I found it's easier for me to drain the oil out with this plug. Unscrew the plug's cap and it will drain. I don't need to replace the plug and o-rings each time with the current setup.



Update:


The plug worked without any leaks, the skid plate had no oil on it (skid plate can be seen by driver tire).

Super simple and easy oil change.

Popped hood and removed oil filter, slid under front of truck, removed skid plate and unplugged drain valve and Very controlled and predictable stream of oil released to bucket (15 qt). Waited close to 1.5 hours because oil stopped draining for a few moments, then oil started draining again at a decent rate. Eventually stopped, sealed release valve with plug, refilled crankcase with new oil , new filter and new filter o rings, tightened, primed engine (accessory mode on, fully depress brake and gas pedal simultaneously, THEN, press start button) and it was good to go!

The video is over an *hour* after initial drain plug removal. Very clean oil change.

Engine's happy and sounds like it's enjoying the new oil, I'm happy.

20220314_180143.jpg


 
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Does Ronin make a plug for the Bronco? I use one on my F150 2.7. It's a great alternative to the yellow factory plug.
 

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The yellow drain plugs are very good. No need to replace the o ring on it unless it is damaged. I do oil changes at work, since the drain plugs came out, we have never had an issue with them. The oil drains very fast and absolutely no tools needed for removal. I do one 2.7 f150 with 200k on it and its on the stock plug and o ring.

To the OP, unless your o ring is damaged, i bet the oil u see is oil u did not clean up the first time around. I could be wrong though. O'reileys sells them if u need one.

To anyone else listening. I would never install something like a "fumoto" drain valve into a pan unless there was some kind of damage with the threads. These are last resort fixes. The locking device falls out, and then the lever can be hit by a reed or stick and drain the pan. Twice i have had to go out to a field where they were farming and put a real drain plug and fill it with oil because the "fumoto" dumped the oil. Just my personal experience, y'all do what y'all want.
 

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I have used fumoto on a dozen cars over 15+ years with no issues.

fumoto does not make one for the 2.7 yet.



The yellow drain plugs are very good. No need to replace the o ring on it unless it is damaged. I do oil changes at work, since the drain plugs came out, we have never had an issue with them. The oil drains very fast and absolutely no tools needed for removal. I do one 2.7 f150 with 200k on it and its on the stock plug and o ring.

To the OP, unless your o ring is damaged, i bet the oil u see is oil u did not clean up the first time around. I could be wrong though. O'reileys sells them if u need one.

To anyone else listening. I would never install something like a "fumoto" drain valve into a pan unless there was some kind of damage with the threads. These are last resort fixes. The locking device falls out, and then the lever can be hit by a reed or stick and drain the pan. Twice i have had to go out to a field where they were farming and put a real drain plug and fill it with oil because the "fumoto" dumped the oil. Just my personal experience, y'all do what y'all want.
 

 
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