2 Door Hardtop lift / storage DIY with just (4) eye hooks and (4) cam straps

[Fly2Win]

Same concept but ran them from front to back. Easy peasy.

FYI - Those hooks aren’t a mattress. You can take the tags off .

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[Altitude]

Is each eye hook in a stud or joist? I have seen other posts where once it is up they put a 2x4 on the bottom with eye hooks to support the roof.
Like the 7-minute mark of this video:

I would do this, but with 2x6s laying flat (horizontal).

 

[KompressorV12]

Same concept but ran them from front to back. Easy peasy.

FYI - Those hooks aren’t a mattress. You can take the tags off .

I suspect a “my top leaks” post this winter incoming

 

[darinhouston]

Finally someone who understands lifting from the roof rack points in the opposite direction as intended is a bad idea. 🫡

Why do you think so? Roof racks are designed specifically to support static weight and upward forces from windage as well as the moment loads from unequal balancing everywhere in between. A simple kayak has a significant upward force. Otherwise, why tie it down?

I've also wondered if they might use these in manufacturing/assembly to move the tops around and do the install. I can't find a photo of assembly however. But, I don't believe in co-incidences and it would not surprise me that the center of mass is at this back slot for just that reason (especially since the factory roof rack doesn't use them).

As I have stated numerous times here (and is why I have been trying so hard to find a shelf-solution for my garage), lifting (static loads) and storage (bending/creep over time) are two different things. I wouldn't use point loads anywhere that create flex of any sort for long term storage, but lifting seems pretty straightforward - these things aren't that heavy.

 

[Valhalla]

I believe the poster is using this as storage. So flex over time is my only concern.

 

[Danh63]

I believe I over did it but I built a wood frame to hold the top and instead of straps to the ceiling I did them to a frame I built for the top that hooks to my electric hoist. I did notice that before I ran straps across the sides that it would tip easy from front to back.
I originally was going to do what OP did. When I added reinforcement to the back and center braces I threw off my sweet spot and no matter where I put the hook it wouldn't balance. Had to add a couple of brake disks until I figure something else out

 

[Rwhite692]

Its funny to see the various ways that people have addressed lifting and storing tops for jeeps, broncos, etc over the years. And amazing how many people make it unnecessarily difficult by not using any form of mechanical advantage.

 

[Singleshot]

I have yet to put my ceiling hoist together, but back in the day I used a boat trailer crank winch, 5 block's and nylon rope attached to 2X4's to lift my canopy off the truck. Once you get the rope length correct, you're good to go.

 

[lakesinai]

Project took about an hour and cost me maybe $30 in materials. Ive seen some attach a 2x4 board to the rear straps then rest the hardtop on the board, But is there a reason NOT not just hook the top from the bottom with the hooks attached to the cam straps (like I did)?I did not find any FMC specific documentation/warnings about this

Personally, I'm not concerned about the top flexing or its strength, its stronger than people are giving it credit for! I do have concern that the 4 attachment points are too small and could lead to chipping or scratching the laminate at that small point. Maybe a fatter, or padded hook? I'm thinking that the ideal place to lift the rear cap is the four roof-rack attachment points. I'd consider using my roof rack (half-rack) to hook onto to lift with, if I was removing it.

 

[swaing]

I would add another set of straps and loop around the bottom of the top and attach them to the same eye bolts. You are currently putting a lot of weight on 4 very small sections of the top, stressing those points. Another strap can relieve that weight and also act as a safety.

I agree. My concern with the 4 hooks is that it puts direct pressure at those locations. Two boards with eyelets at the corners of each board will redistribute the load better as the top would essentially be resting on the boards vs having the hooks pulling on a very small surface area. Just my humble opinion.

 

[brianbrn]

I've got the harken hoister setup. It was made for Jeeps. I used it for lifting my RTT and now I use it for my 4 door hard top. It works great and I can raise and lower it very easily by pulling one rope.

harken hoister

 

[straycat]

I've got the harken hoister setup. It was made for Jeeps. I used it for lifting my RTT and now I use it for my 4 door hard top. It works great and I can raise and lower it very easily by pulling one rope.

harken hoister

You think something like this can be modified to lift the soft top?

 

[brianbrn]

I don’t know anything about the soft top. If it just lifts off then there would be a way to attach the straps to it and pull it up. I just haven’t seen the soft top or know enough about it to know how that would work.

 

[Rwhite692]

+1 for the Harken hoist. The Cam Lock for the pull rope, and the 3:1 mechanical advantage, are what differentiate it. Also, Harken makes quality, marine-grade gear.

The ~70 pound top lifts with only about 23 pounds of pull force.

Stored 12 feet up, in my case.

 

[Gnomad]

Its funny to see the various ways that people have addressed lifting and storing tops for jeeps, broncos, etc over the years. And amazing how many people make it unnecessarily difficult by not using any form of mechanical advantage.

This is pretty much what I did. Found a boat winch at the ReStore for $10, a pulley at lowes for $8, a couple of ratchet straps I had laying around and my top is stored in the *not very tall inside* garage with room to park it under. Pro tip-if your sense of spatial awareness is as useless as mine, split some pool noodles and cover the edges of the top so they don't ding your head.

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