2" lift kit for a sasquatch?

[Pkrpro19]

What notch did you set them to? I've had similar experiences with 5100's at their top notch in my Nissan Xterra, Chevy Silverado 1500 and Toyota Tacomas. You might think the issue is the preload but believe it's more of an issue with the down travel you have with those at max since is little next to nothing so when the strut/co has to extend down the shaft is literally as its max and tops out harder than normal. They're not extended travel and everybody always go for them at max. If you lower them 2-3 clips and use a little 0.5" top spacer life is much better.

Either that or use anything that's extended travel so if you go a little higher on the preload your shock shaft still have some room to extend and if the rebound valving is correct the valving stack has enough time to slow down the shaft from opening too fast and you won't feel them top out hard at all. King, Fox, Icon, Radflo etc make really good COs for your F150. If you want to save some Falcon makes a set of performance struts that are similar to the 5100's and you'll reuse your springs. Not as cheap as 5100's but are extended travel and will handle roads and dirt roads a lot better than 5100's

I’d have to disagree a bit on that. I used Bilstein’s lift struts on my F-150 and it rode like a damn horse and buggy. I got tired of that and bought a 2” spacer for my truck, lowered the same struts down to the 3/4” lift setting and couldn’t be happier. The struts were just preloaded too much and had no give. The key with spacers is understanding their limitations and buying one from a REALLY solid company… no chimesium crap. I absolutely agree that at higher lift heights you HAVE to go all-out because the taller height will destroy your cv’s and screw up all of your geometry; but for those who simply want just a bit more room between the flares and the tires; there is nothing wrong with a spacer kit. I’m considering a 1.5” in the front and maybe an inch in the back. I also learned that if you add upper control arms to your Bronco, you void your warranty, so those 3.5” kits are out. With everything in the driveline being built like it is, I’ll ride my warranty all day long. I have a great dealership and we walked through all of this step by step, but anything under 2” or so is fine. I would never go more than 2” with a spacer on a Sasquatch… I’d do less honestly, you're just pushing things too far.

Changing the control arms 100% does not void the warranty.

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[psbrew]

Here you go. Got these and they look solid. First thing I'm going to do after my Bronco is shipped.

https://www.cjponyparts.com/zone-of...dxCvGBz8NO0aWBr1VlFOKhPPzy-KAwThoCq_QQAvD_BwE

 

[Kameronatm]

Here you go. Got these and they look solid. First thing I'm going to do after my Bronco is shipped.

https://www.cjponyparts.com/zone-of...dxCvGBz8NO0aWBr1VlFOKhPPzy-KAwThoCq_QQAvD_BwE

I've got this and the UCA's going on a non sas badlands hopefully this week or next.

 

[JDC351]

What notch did you set them to? I've had similar experiences with 5100's at their top notch in my Nissan Xterra, Chevy Silverado 1500 and Toyota Tacomas. You might think the issue is the preload but believe it's more of an issue with the down travel you have with those at max since is little next to nothing so when the strut/co has to extend down the shaft is literally as its max and tops out harder than normal. They're not extended travel and everybody always go for them at max. If you lower them 2-3 clips and use a little 0.5" top spacer life is much better.

Either that or use anything that's extended travel so if you go a little higher on the preload your shock shaft still have some room to extend and if the rebound valving is correct the valving stack has enough time to slow down the shaft from opening too fast and you won't feel them top out hard at all. King, Fox, Icon, Radflo etc make really good COs for your F150. If you want to save some Falcon makes a set of performance struts that are similar to the 5100's and you'll reuse your springs. Not as cheap as 5100's but are extended travel and will handle roads and dirt roads a lot better than 5100's

Yeah. It definitely has to do some with the down travel, but the bilsteins are also position-sensitive, so at the 2.25” setting I had them at, they were extremely stiff because they were maxed out. I jacked it up one time and had plenty of down-travel… it was really irritating actually!!! Maxed out the jack but my tire wasn’t off the ground. I called bilstein’s tech line and they explained that due to the valving, they naturally were going to be stiffer at the max position. I was really surprised at how much change it made going down to the 3/4” position.

 

[RBF 1401]

@BAUS67 have you already chimed in yet?

 

[JDC351]

Yeah… the UCA’s help with alignment and angles, but the bigger issue is with the cv angles. You’re maxing out your CV’s at higher lifts and if you’ve priced maxed out CV’s… I’ll pass. Plus, if you look at the geometry, the lower control arms being at a steeper angle also affects ride quality and suspension compliance. I'm looking at more trail time than high speed, so having the lowers at more of a level position contributes to better flex. The fox stuff is great don’t get me wrong, but it works better if the LCA ‘s are lowered. I have Learned a lot of this from racing and have CAD mapped profiles; but it’s really just simple geometry.

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