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2021+ Bronco 6 speaker wiring diagram

pbryan

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Can someone give me a quick lesson on how to read this wiring schematic? I just want to try and understand the wiring before I move forward with installing some new speakers.
I'll take a stab at it.

Tall box on the left is the Audio Control Module (ACM) in the 6-speaker system this is the radio & amp.

The lines exiting the ACM are the speaker wires. The little numbers next to exit point are the pin numbers of the connector on the ACM. The connector number is at the top "C240A".

Using the Right Front (RF) Speaker as an example we can follow the wires from the ACM to the speakers.

RF- leaves the ACM on pin 2 of 'C240A'. It's a Green & Brown wire (GN-BN). It travels to connector 'C222' where it is pin 7. Then continues to the kick panel speaker at connector 'C2420' where it enters as pin 4. What isn't shown great here, is that pin 4 and pin 3 are jumpered together in that connector, so the circuit continues on to the dash speaker now on a Yellow-Gray (YL-GY) wire, passing back through 'C222' ultimately reaching the speaker connector 'C2357' on pin 3.

RF+ leaves the ACM on pin 3 of 'C240A'. It's Yellow & Orange (YE-OG), heads through 'C222' also, then to pin 1 at the kick panel speaker, and on to the dash speaker the same way as RF- but on a Violet & Gray (VT-GY) wire.

You can follow the other circuits similarly, all starting at the ACM and ending at a speaker.

The wire color codes are BU = Blue, BN = Brown, GR = Green, GY = Gray, OG = Orange, WH = White, VT = Violet, BK = Black, RD = Red.
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robster94gt

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Hi,
I've tapped into the outer wires on the kicker panel speaker connectors, to get a high level signal to my powered amp. The amp isn't 'triggering' on, when music is playing. There is power to the amp. The amp is supposed to turn on when it detects a high level signal on its input wires.
I thought I might have tapped into the wires incorrectly, buy from what I'm seeing in the diagram and descriptions here, it should be correct. Did I tap into the wrong 'place' in the wiring? any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Rob
 

MNNTHBX

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I need to steal full range signal for my amp. I'm assuming if the schematic is accurate, and the kick panels and dash share the same wires coming from the head unit, then the 6.5 kick speakers are getting full range signal, and aren't crossed over in any capacity?
 

pjmezz13

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The attached should help those planning to upgrade their base, 6 speaker systems, with or without an aftermarket amp. The goal here was to convert the schematic into something that you can visualize easier as you start your installation.

I've focused on the front signal, as that seems to be where most of the confusion is.

Page 1: Driver's side front speakers stock
Page 2: Passenger's side front speakers stock

Page 3: Driver's side front speaker only swap
Page 4: Passenger's side front speaker only swap

Page 5: Driver's side front passive 2-way crossover/component (no amp)
Page 6: Passenger's side front passive 2-way crossover/component (no amp)

Page 7: Driver's side front passive 2-way crossover/component (w/amp)
Page 8: Passenger's side front passive 2-way crossover/component (w/amp)

If you follow these diagrams, you can expand to the rear speakers by running new speaker wires from your amplifier to the rear speaker pods or subwoofer, where applicable. This assumes that your amp has signal summing capabilities.

Page 9: Comparison of front and rear factory head unit ELECTRICAL signal playing pink noise, visualized through the Audio Control DSP.

Page 10: Original schematic

Feedback welcome :)
 

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BBBronco

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I haven’t read this entire thread, but wondering if I reverse the 4” speaker wires, reversing the fader basically, I’ll have full range in rear and high only in the dash? The 6.5’s don’t matter, I have bass. Any insight appreciated 🍻
Ford Bronco 2021+ Bronco 6 speaker wiring diagram B6B58A26-1E67-4641-9273-FBCD0B297594
Ford Bronco 2021+ Bronco 6 speaker wiring diagram 7DD7A3F1-464B-43A8-92DA-4C17CB4EA59B
 

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I haven’t read this entire thread, but wondering if I reverse the 4” speaker wires, reversing the fader basically, I’ll have full range in rear and high only in the dash? The 6.5’s don’t matter, I have bass. Any insight appreciated 🍻
You could do that, but there are better ways to get a full range signal to the rear. A dealership can do the setup procedure for the JBL sound bar, and that would give full range to all four channels. Or, you can do it yourself with Forscan.

I'm guessing you're trying to get adequate signal to an amp for those subs. Axxess makes a T harness that works great for this. If all you need is a sub signal, I'd get that T harness and an Epicenter Micro. Hook it up to the front channels and you're good to go. If you're going to want to amplify your mids and highs, they have an inexpensive DSP that plugs into that T harness and gives you 6 channels of output for your amp(s), remote turn-on lead, 15 band EQ, time alignment, crossovers, etc.
 

buzpro

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my sound system is almost complete .... VERY happy with my set up but i still need a woofer for solid crisp base. I am looking at powered subwoofers. Specifically this one:
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-DS6apaGx0nL/p_20646HS10/Kicker-46HS10.html

anyone have any experience with the sound quality on powered subs? is a 10 inch enough for the 4 dr cabin size or should i go with a 12 inch?

this is my final piece to the puzzle so, please share any info or thoughts you may have. Thx.
 

BBBronco

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You could do that, but there are better ways to get a full range signal to the rear. A dealership can do the setup procedure for the JBL sound bar, and that would give full range to all four channels. Or, you can do it yourself with Forscan.

I'm guessing you're trying to get adequate signal to an amp for those subs. Axxess makes a T harness that works great for this. If all you need is a sub signal, I'd get that T harness and an Epicenter Micro. Hook it up to the front channels and you're good to go. If you're going to want to amplify your mids and highs, they have an inexpensive DSP that plugs into that T harness and gives you 6 channels of output for your amp(s), remote turn-on lead, 15 band EQ, time alignment, crossovers, etc.
I had had my existing amp/sub box installed by a local shop. When I added a 2nd amp for rear full range, I discovered they had only tapped into left front for line out converter. My setup now is head unit faded full front with the “driver only” rather than “all passengers” setting, the roll bar speakers and 2 extra 6.5” rear speakers are powered, and a powered sub on the tailgate. Also using the Bluetooth connection rather than Car Play, I’m finally happy with it 👍🏻
 

Dadsquatch

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my sound system is almost complete .... VERY happy with my set up but i still need a woofer for solid crisp base. I am looking at powered subwoofers. Specifically this one:
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-DS6apaGx0nL/p_20646HS10/Kicker-46HS10.html

anyone have any experience with the sound quality on powered subs? is a 10 inch enough for the 4 dr cabin size or should i go with a 12 inch?

this is my final piece to the puzzle so, please share any info or thoughts you may have. Thx.
That Kicker 10” will be plenty for the 4-door.
 

Nick3

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NO. the plug from the wiring harness is a 4 position female molex connector with ZERO interaction between positions!! plug that female connector into the midbass driver, which has pins 1&2 bridged together for positive and pins 3&4 together for negative in the actual connector itself, then and only then will positive and negative signal go to the female positions 2 and 3 in the harness molex connector to go to the dash.

my diagram shows them unplugged for clarity. imagine inserting the harness plug (on top of diagram) with two wires from amp on pins 1&4 and two wires from dash speaker on pins 2&3 plugging into the connector (on Bottom of diagram) on the midbass. then and only then will signal go through the internal buss/bridge in the midbass connector to pins 2 and 3 to the dash speaker!!
This may help with wiring the kick panel speakers. I wanted to understand which wires were coupled together so that I could know which ones to solder together. Here is picture:
Hope this helps someone.

View attachment 438219
 
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fallguy

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Long store short, putting a sub on the tailgate. Amp under drivers seat. Would like to plug into the rear pods as I'm assuming they run along the B pillar down on the door sill. Very close to my Amp. Just not sure which wires out of the many they are I need to tap in.

Or do I need to tap into kick panel speakers to get full sound? Be much closes to rear pods as just a foot away.
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