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peta8368

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Hold it, what about the lights that were mounted to the cowl next to the sideview mirrors??? I’ve seen some prototypes sporting them, don’t tell me I have to drill another hole in my firewall
Cowl area is probably accessible from within the engine bay, and don't need to drill a hole in the firewall?

Peter
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gmannerino

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This is my exact build, just missing the MIC top and DAMN does this Base look good 🤗
 

Lilj4425

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Wow. Had no idea they had wire connection points for the Aux switches that went directly to different parts of the vehicle. Awesome work Ford. :)
 

BroncoBoy22

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I'm a very visual person - this is how I'm making sense of this:

*Disclaimer: Apologies to those who are pros at this! I just geeked out and decided to make these for me and whomever else is "newtothis"

IMG_9274.png

IMG_9275.png


There are 6 Aux Switches...each that run wire down in the engine area. These are all powered, but none of them are connected to anything.
In that same engine area are 5 loose wires that you can connect to any of the Aux Switches in any order you choose....so Aux 1 can supply power to grill, the back, the roof...wherever you want it to supply power to.

Example 1:

Let's say you want to power something that requires a decent amount of juice. Let's say that item is a high-powered light bar that would be mounted where the roof rack would mount to the front. You can connect the Aux 1 Wire (the wire with the most amperage) to the pre-made Circuit D (this connection happens in the engine bay). From here, circuit D is already running wire up towards the passenger-side visor (aka the roof). You can use the end of this wire to connect your light bar.

Now Aux 1 powers your light bar.

View attachment 95747


Example 2:

Same thing. Let's say that "high powered" item you want to be able to turn on/off is a mini-fridge in the back of your Bronco. This time you connect the Aux 1 Wire (the wire with the most amperage) to the pre-made Circuit E (this connection happens in the engine bay).
From here, circuit E is already running wire back towards the rear. You can use the end of this wire to connect your mini-fridge.

Now Aux 1 powers your mini-fridge (instead of your light bar as in Example 1).

View attachment 95748


Example 3:

This example is meant to illustrate why there are 6 total Aux Switches and "only" 5 total pre-made circuits. In this example you the Bronco owner is using every single Aux Switch available.

Aux 1 goes to the 1st passenger compartment (example: for pod lights)
Aux 2 goes to the front grill (example: for fog lights)
Aux 3 goes to the 2nd passenger compartment (example: for internal lighting)
Aux 4 goes to the roof (example: for roof mounted light bar)
Aux 5 goes to the rear (example: for a mini-fridge)

This leaves Aux 6. Aux 6 still has a wire leading from the switch inside to the engine bay. Sadly...it does not have a partner wire to dance with! This means you have to use your own wire and run it to wherever you want it to go in the Bronco.

View attachment 95750

Take home points:

1) You can literally mix and match any of these combinations (36 possible different combinations of where you can lead all your Aux switches)!

2) You have a choice as to which parts of the bronco get the most amperage (You can connect Aux 1 to whatever circuit you want....and so on down the line).

3) At first the fact that there were only 5 pre-made circuits did not make sense to me. Then when I figured it out, I thought it was inconvenient that they didn't just make a 6th pre-made circuit. Now that I've sat with the idea for a while...I really like that they left the 6th Aux switch a freebie...you're able to run wire to absolutely anywhere you want and not a pre-made destination!

4) Sorry if this is all horribly obvious to most of you...I just started geeking out and made all that haha
Thank you for this this post was amazingly helpful to me. It should be stickied!
 

MVP

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Hmm...I see your logic...but at that point why have B1 and B2 separate from E and D at all?
At that point you would only have 3 pre-made circuits (circuit C leading to the grill, circuit B1+D leading to the rear, circuit B2+E leading to the roof)...leaving 3 open Aux switches where you would have to run your own wire to wherever you choose?

I can see that.

I can also see running separate wire from each of those Aux switches to each respective circuit like my 2nd grade macaroni art level diagram showed lol

But alas...it seems I may be missing a bigger picture here! If the consensus is the diagram is wrong please let me know and I'll be sure to take it down!
Your diagram is wrong. It would be best to take it down not to confuse everyone.

the wiring from the engine bay to the glove box is not connected to the rear and roof so that it is customizable. Maybe you don’t want to run to the rear or roof maybe you want two things on the dash. Maybe you want the rear and roof on one switch and a CB radio on the dash on another switch.
The way they wired it is that you have 3 prerun switches. After that you have to wire yourself.

So On my Chevy Colorado I have one pair of flood lights on my front bumper and one pair spot lights on the bumper. The different pairs have their own switch. So two switches.

if I did the same thing on the Bronco I wouldn’t use any of their prerun wires. I would connect my own wire to the already made switch wires coming off of the distribution box since I don’t need the wires to go into the cab.

that way I could leave the wire to the grille in case I wanted to add a winch later.

so if I ran two separate sets of cube lights on the front, a winch, a light bar on the roof and a fridge in the back, the only wires I would have to run would be the two from the sets of cube lights and that would all be in the engine bay.

Edit: Just for clarity he changed his diagram after this post and it’s great now.
 
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Jersey2607

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Honestly, these wires look very small to be powering something such as an amplifier. Unless you are talking about a small amplifier 100w or less.

I don't see how a thin wire like that can pull 25 amp... (aux 1)

Peter

edit: here's some reference charts. 25A requires 12 AWG. and 12 AWG has wire thickness of 0.08 inch (just over 5/64), or 2.05mm in metric. I may be way off eyeballing the wires in the video, but it doesn't look anywhere near thick enough.


1615004433822.png
They bend too easily. I'm guessing 16AWG
 

De Brus

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Honestly, these wires look very small to be powering something such as an amplifier. Unless you are talking about a small amplifier 100w or less.

I don't see how a thin wire like that can pull 25 amp... (aux 1)

Peter

edit: here's some reference charts. 25A requires 12 AWG. and 12 AWG has wire thickness of 0.08 inch (just over 5/64), or 2.05mm in metric. I may be way off eyeballing the wires in the video, but it doesn't look anywhere near thick enough.


1615004433822.png
I presume they're taking about remote turn on, although I don't know why you wouldn't just hook up to ignition power. Regardless, you'd still need to run a heavy Guage wire for constant power.
 

Bronco4

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I believe Since 2017 all Fords built on Truck Frames have had this option. Awesome option for the Bronco.
 

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Portapot

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Honestly, these wires look very small to be powering something such as an amplifier. Unless you are talking about a small amplifier 100w or less.

I don't see how a thin wire like that can pull 25 amp... (aux 1)

Peter

edit: here's some reference charts. 25A requires 12 AWG. and 12 AWG has wire thickness of 0.08 inch (just over 5/64), or 2.05mm in metric. I may be way off eyeballing the wires in the video, but it doesn't look anywhere near thick enough.


1615004433822.png
that's a really good point that I did not consider. Thanks!
 

hellahella

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The ones in the glove box made no sense
The glove box is a perfect starting point for accessories inside. But its too perfect that I'm planning on keeping a CB inside.
 

Woodwalker

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The glove box is a perfect starting point for accessories inside. But its too perfect that I'm planning on keeping a CB inside.
If the ones in the glove box need to be spliced together then they should come that way
 

Bronc-O

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I'm a very visual person - this is how I'm making sense of this:

*Disclaimer: Apologies to those who are pros at this! I just geeked out and decided to make these for me and whomever else is "newtothis"

IMG_9274.png

IMG_9275.png


There are 6 Aux Switches...each that run wire down in the engine area. These are all powered, but none of them are connected to anything.
In that same engine area are 5 loose wires that you can connect to any of the Aux Switches in any order you choose....so Aux 1 can supply power to grill, the back, the roof...wherever you want it to supply power to.

Example 1:

Let's say you want to power something that requires a decent amount of juice. Let's say that item is a high-powered light bar that would be mounted where the roof rack would mount to the front. You can connect the Aux 1 Wire (the wire with the most amperage) to the pre-made Circuit D (this connection happens in the engine bay). From here, circuit D is already running wire up towards the passenger-side visor (aka the roof). You can use the end of this wire to connect your light bar.

Now Aux 1 powers your light bar.

View attachment 95747


Example 2:

Same thing. Let's say that "high powered" item you want to be able to turn on/off is a mini-fridge in the back of your Bronco. This time you connect the Aux 1 Wire (the wire with the most amperage) to the pre-made Circuit E (this connection happens in the engine bay).
From here, circuit E is already running wire back towards the rear. You can use the end of this wire to connect your mini-fridge.

Now Aux 1 powers your mini-fridge (instead of your light bar as in Example 1).

View attachment 95748


Example 3:

This example is meant to illustrate why there are 6 total Aux Switches and "only" 5 total pre-made circuits. In this example you the Bronco owner is using every single Aux Switch available.

Aux 1 goes to the 1st passenger compartment (example: for pod lights)
Aux 2 goes to the front grill (example: for fog lights)
Aux 3 goes to the 2nd passenger compartment (example: for internal lighting)
Aux 4 goes to the roof (example: for roof mounted light bar)
Aux 5 goes to the rear (example: for a mini-fridge)

This leaves Aux 6. Aux 6 still has a wire leading from the switch inside to the engine bay. Sadly...it does not have a partner wire to dance with! This means you have to use your own wire and run it to wherever you want it to go in the Bronco.

View attachment 95750

Take home points:

1) You can literally mix and match any of these combinations (36 possible different combinations of where you can lead all your Aux switches)!

2) You have a choice as to which parts of the bronco get the most amperage (You can connect Aux 1 to whatever circuit you want....and so on down the line).

3) At first the fact that there were only 5 pre-made circuits did not make sense to me. Then when I figured it out, I thought it was inconvenient that they didn't just make a 6th pre-made circuit. Now that I've sat with the idea for a while...I really like that they left the 6th Aux switch a freebie...you're able to run wire to absolutely anywhere you want and not a pre-made destination!

4) Sorry if this is all horribly obvious to most of y
If the ones in the glove box need to be spliced together then they should come that way
They only need to be connected if you intend to use them. Since there are 4 different amp ratings for the switches, how does Ford decide which one to connect to?
 

Woodwalker

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They only need to be connected if you intend to use them. Since there are 4 different amp ratings for the switches, how does Ford decide which one to connect to?
Thats better. The video to me didn't cover that. The diagram is much better
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