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Tex

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Unfortunately the ACC distance cannot be changed whether you redo the recalibration or not. It’s just a set value. I’m not happy about it either to be honest.

FDRS has a very few irrelevant programmable parameters unlike forscan where you can change a lot, so the zone lighting idea is out the door also.
Seems like a running Ford strategy...introduce a cool feature, then add a limitation to it that neuters its ability to be useful to the point where you'd almost rather not even have it, and then make it all but impossible to alter. I wish I had the tools and electronics to put the radar module on a test stand, decode the data stream it's pushing, and make an inline module that modifies it to whatever I want on the fly.

As for the zone lighting, I guess at this point the only option is to re-wire it and bypass the module responsible for turning it on and off. I've already considered hardwiring it to an upfitter switch, but I really just want the original buttons to work whenever I push them instead of using a separate switch. Any idea where I might find a wiring diagram for those lights?
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Ducati1098

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As for the zone lighting, I guess at this point the only option is to re-wire it and bypass the module responsible for turning it on and off. I've already considered hardwiring it to an upfitter switch, but I really just want the original buttons to work whenever I push them instead of using a separate switch. Any idea where I might find a wiring diagram for those lights?
I don’t think there is anyway to do that. The zone lighting is all controlled through the logic of the APIM. There is no actual “switch” so I’m not sure how you would hardwire them together to all work at once on one aux switch. The wiring for all the zone lights don’t just come together at one place that you can bypass.

Unless you’re talking about just the spot lights on the mirrors that you want to put on an aux switch. Those are just one part of zone lighting though.
 

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I don’t think there is anyway to do that. The zone lighting is all controlled through the logic of the APIM. There is no actual “switch” so I’m not sure how you would hardwire them together to all work at once on one aux switch. The wiring for all the zone lights don’t just come together at one place that you can bypass.

Unless you’re talking about just the spot lights on the mirrors that you want to put on an aux switch. Those are just one part of zone lighting though.
Well, actually, there is a possibility. Decrease the tire size until it is reading in kph what would normally be in mph. The switch the speedo to KPH, lol. That would extend the limit from 20-33 mph.

It would also increase your top speed from 107 to 177 mph. lol.

This assumes that FORSCAN will let you make the tire about 60.5% of the original size. It may not allow this.
 

Tex

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Unless you’re talking about just the spot lights on the mirrors that you want to put on an aux switch. Those are just one part of zone lighting though.
Yeah I just want the side mirror lights to work, I already have plenty of light front and rear through the upfitter switches. Was thinking that if I wired those switches direct and bypassed the APIM wiring, they'd work when I pushed the buttons. Though, I don't know if the switches are powered by the APIM and then go to the lights, or if the switches just complete a logic circuit and aren't even connected to the lights. In the first case, all I'd have to do is run a hot wire to the switch and they'd hopefully operate normally. In the second, well, I know enough to know that I don't know what to do LOL
 

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Yeah I just want the side mirror lights to work, I already have plenty of light front and rear through the upfitter switches. Was thinking that if I wired those switches direct and bypassed the APIM wiring, they'd work when I pushed the buttons. Though, I don't know if the switches are powered by the APIM and then go to the lights, or if the switches just complete a logic circuit and aren't even connected to the lights. In the first case, all I'd have to do is run a hot wire to the switch and they'd hopefully operate normally. In the second, well, I know enough to know that I don't know what to do LOL
Yeah it should be easy to do if you only want the mirror lights, because then you don’t need to worry about the APIM or the rest of the zone lights. Here is an explanation of how the circuit works and the wiring diagrams you’ll need. It won’t be quite as easy, because the lights are module controlled, not wired directly to the switch.
Ford Bronco 2021+ Bronco ForScan Thread 572F53C8-ABC5-48D8-A893-8940A0029E05
Ford Bronco 2021+ Bronco ForScan Thread 4861EA75-289B-4AFE-B75A-F4BB3CB0C891
Ford Bronco 2021+ Bronco ForScan Thread F7C3B90A-A811-4431-B565-5B064C885A94
Ford Bronco 2021+ Bronco ForScan Thread B274F38B-9FBA-450E-B637-EAAB94D60569
 
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Tex

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Hmm...okay, so it appears that the switches just provide a ground signal to the PDM where all the magic happens, at which point it either directly controls the passenger light or sends the command to the DDM so it can turn the driver light on. Seems like I might not be able to use those switches to directly control the lights without using a couple relays, as I doubt they're big enough to handle the added amperage of independently running those lights. It's that or figure out how to trick the PDM/DDM to see a false speed indication so I can use that instead, and I don't think I'm quite up to that task.
 

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I own a 2022 Bronco Badlands and would love to unlock sports mode but I would never attempt to do it myself.

Is their anyone in Florida offering this service? I would bring it to you. Please let me know and how much?

Alan
 

Tex

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I own a 2022 Bronco Badlands and would love to unlock sports mode but I would never attempt to do it myself.

Is their anyone in Florida offering this service? I would bring it to you. Please let me know and how much?

Alan
Might as well get a few other things done too while you've got someone poking around in your modules, like bambi mode, disabling ASS/double honk, etc. If all you did was pay someone to do this for you, you'd never be able to revert back to your original settings without them doing it, and they might not be around in a few years or whatever if you change your mind or want to sell it. It's really not that difficult to do yourself, the hard part is finding a tutorial that makes sense to you. If you find someone who's willing to meet up and knows this stuff, probably better to have them teach you how with your own equipment instead.
 

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Thank you for the advice. So far nobody has offered. Lol. I'm definitely not able to do it myself. Its not in my wheelhouse.
 

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Well first I am in the US but moving to Europe next year. Trying to be ahead of the game.

Second, the issue came up before, it is a digital analog cluster like in my Jeep. In the Jeep I can switch between kmph and mph just by pressing a button. So to me changing the whole cluster would seem like a big step when it is just a computer setting.
When you change the readout to Km/h the analog gauge still says MPH, but have you checked to see if it reports in km/h anyway?
 

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When you change the readout to Km/h the analog gauge still says MPH, but have you checked to see if it reports in km/h anyway?

No sure I understand what you mean. Report in km/h where?
 

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No sure I understand what you mean. Report in km/h where?
On the analog gauge. When you switch to km, maybe the needle reports in km even though the light on the gauge says mph.
 

Tex

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Thank you for the advice. So far nobody has offered. Lol. I'm definitely not able to do it myself. Its not in my wheelhouse.
Well, if you ever find yourself in Texas, I'll help you out no charge.
 

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Thank you Tex! I may take you up on that one day. I always wanted to drive thru Texas at some point.

Alan
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