Different feature, but I think TTA uses (one) of the e brakes to lock the inside rear.The electric brake system is needed to be able to use trail turn assist as far as I’m aware.
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Different feature, but I think TTA uses (one) of the e brakes to lock the inside rear.The electric brake system is needed to be able to use trail turn assist as far as I’m aware.
The link was for @Zeebo390 who seemed to know about the issues. The link, a search for 2.3 Carbon, is the result of direct injection. If you read the search items in that link you will come to understand the issues about direct injection on the 2.3 engine and its carbon buildup problems. Further reading will show you that an oil "catch can" is one solution.Your link is literally worthless
It’ll help knock out PCV oil carryover but it won’t do anything for EGR exhaust soot or condensation. I haven’t seen inside a DI-only + EGR engine before so no idea how much of a problem it can cause. Although I’ve been searching the Ranger forums and it doesn’t sound like they are seeing much...at least not yet.Do you think an oil catch can would be much help with this problem?
Maybe they are afraid you won't be smart enough to prevent a stall if you used in in good traction?Weird I wonder why TTA can’t be used with the manual then since the parking brake uses electric actuators on both.
For someone trying to help, you have a funny, entitled, way of showing appreciation. I spelled it out for you in my last post, no sentence or two can give you the details that are only available by reading the dozens of posts on the problem by those that have experienced it. The short version, direct injection can cause carbon build up in the 2.3 engine, an "oil catch can" is one possible solution. The 2.7 engine with port injection does not have this problem.Your link doesn't present any of that I formation at all. It's a link to this websites shitty search function in which the "most relevant" result is is literal the post you made with the link to the search results in it followed by a link to someone joking about looking for carbon build up at one of the dealer showings. After that it's mostly links going to posts talking about a color with the word "carbon" in it.
Again literally worthless
Yes, but it make adding supplemental brakes for flat towing harder, and more complicated, vacuum booster is a snap!The electric brake system is needed to be able to use trail turn assist as far as I’m aware.
If you use a portable system that sits on the driver's floor (BlueOx) with the brake pedal arm, or the tow bar unit with the cable thru the firewall (ReadyBrake) to the pedal you are good....., if tow mode activates the brake boost pump. I use the Roadmaster InvisiBrake system on a vacuum booster vehicle, which will not work on a electronic actuated boost system. I have an email in to roadmaster asking if they plan to make a plug in interface unit that will activate the electronic boost unit using the vacuum produced by my system. If not I will have to start from scratch which will suck.Interesting I never considered that.
What’s involved with normal systems that might be different with the electric booster?
I use the RVI system, love it. On vacuum systems you cycle 3 times to burn off vacuum. On electric systems you're good because booster does not run unless ignition is on.Appreciate the break down. It appears many vehicles are switching to electric boosters now.
I believe you’d be fine with pedal pushing systems as from what I’ve researched showed that you want absolutely zero vehicle assist on the brake systems because it could cause over braking. They’re supposedly strong enough to apply unassisted braking. Don’t know much more than what I was able to dig up in some videos and forums.
The RIB system uses proportional braking pressure so it can't over brake, my BlueOx portable used to lock up the cars brakes once in awhile at low speed, why I switched. I can set how much pressure is applied to the pedal, you want just enough braking to offset the toad's weight, no more. Best way to set it is to use an empty parking lot and measure normal stopping distance without the toad from say 30 mph, then adjust pedal pressure to stop in the same distance with the toad connected. This way the toad will not push or drag on your RV. I have towed a car for many thousands of miles and the Roadmaster system is the best, harder to install, but once installed hookup is just plugging in the tow lights. The roadmaster system is designed to power your booster so you have your power brakes working normally without undue pressure being applied, not sure if it can work without the vacuum line connected.I use the RVI system, love it. On vacuum systems you cycle 3 times to burn off vacuum. On electric systems you're good because booster does not run unless ignition is on.
So I have a 2011 F150 w/ the 3.5l 1st gen ecoboost (230k miles), and honestly, it hasn't had the valve caking problems that everyone seems to talk about. Perhaps it's because I flog it like a dead cat, but I wasn't worried about having the additional port injection. I suspect that this occurs more under light loads and high vacuum, which my truck doesn't see very often.I think its an issue of the 2.3 not being explicitly designed for turbo use, and the 2.7 is.
So the 2.3 already rolls off the line with a vacuum pump and the 2.7 doesn't.
Is this the height from the ground up and including the 35s for the sasquatch model too? Is this with the height with Hardtop?Click here for the PDF version - Thank you @kellyweiss for the PDF version!
Searchable PDF (download): https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/attachments/2021-ford-bronco-technical-specifications-pdf.119946/
I believe you’ll want to look at the Wildtrak height, as that will include the Sasquatch package standard. This would be to the top of the vehicle.Is this the height from the ground up and including the 35s for the sasquatch model too? Is this with the height with Hardtop?