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OuterBankSquatch

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Are folks thinking the sub/bass level is too high only after installing replacement 4” speakers front/rear? If so I’m wondering if that is bc the speakers are less efficient and requiring a higher volume setting than before to get to a desired loudness, where the sub ends up being too loud at that setting.

If this is the issue and no bass control then I might suggest either more efficient replacement speakers or a less efficient replacement subwoofer to match better with the replacement speakers.

Should have my Bronco in May and really appreciate everyone’s posts here, definitely planning some simple upgrades like those described, thanks all!
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Bronccat

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"There is no setting to adjust the bass level in the Bronco standard audio?"

Yes, but that affects all speakers (that don't have a bass blocker). Sometimes I want more sub only or less sub only - if that makes sense.

I guess I could put an aftermarket level control back there. Maybe a BT one exists...
 

Bronccat

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BTW, I want to thank @JimV for his information in this thread. If I've missed others (especially re the Kenwood #) thanks to you as well.
 

350vudu

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I did the install today (Focus amp and 6.75" kicker) and it was Gravy. Plug and play. I'm pretty please with the sound overall.​
Question however. Is there a Forscan setting that gives you more access re: sound control? Like subwoofer level?​
TIA​
The kicker fit without any mods to the oem sub enclosure? Any pics?
 

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Vicman12

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Ok. So I have succeeded using a Ford amp, an aftermarket sub, and FORScan. Please refer to my prior posts in this thread for additional detail. This post is specifically for those with a 2023 Bronco non-B&O sound system with a nonfunctional amp and sub.

My Bronco is a 4 door 2023 Badlands with a mid package and a non-functional amp and sub. As most have noted, the six-speaker sound system is horrible. My goal was to do the minimal amount possible and keep the factory look and feel. I didn't want to run extra wires, splice wires, etc., only using what was there and adding minimal effort to get a functioning amp and sub in the back to improve sound quality. I was not going after having the loudest or best-sounding system out there.

Tools Used:
  • Plastic Trim Removal Tool Set
  • Philips screwdriver (remove the nonfunctional amp from the stock sub enclosure
  • Torx t20 (remove the sub from the enclosure)
  • Router, and template to modify the sub enclosure (depending on speaker chosen, this may not be required)
Purchased Products:
  • Dynamat Xtreme - Sound Dampening
  • Dymamat Dynaliner - More sound dampening for the ambient noise with the cabinet
  • A functioning non-B&O Ford Bronco sub amp from some upgrading on this forum (which at this point is very limited), or purchase this Ford Fusion amp -https://teamequip.com/fomoco-fp5t-1...und-system-amplifier-for-ford-fusion-t163700/. Both will work equally as well from my testing.
  • Sub: Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8; but if I were to redo this I would choose the Kicker 48CWRT672 - I'll explain further below; I know there are other subs other there that will work too; just watch the minimum watch, ohms (2ohm x 2ohm), and dual voice coil.
Software and OBD:

Steps taken to get the Sub Installed and working:
  1. Removed all back panels (floor, driver side, passenger side - where the sub is).
  2. Sound Dampening - Installed Dynamat and Dynaliner in key areas to remove rattles, vibrations and such. I didnt wall paper it all over the back, but added just enough to help.
  3. Removed the sub enclosure; Disconnecting the stock wiring harness from the non funcational amp and sub.
  4. Removed the non functional amp and sub from the Bronco
  5. Retrofit the sub enclosure cut-over diameter to fit the the 8" sub purchased (This is why I recommend the six inch Kicker, I do not believe any modification will be needed - so no cutting).
  6. Installed installation tape on the sub enclousre to seal the 8" sub
  7. Modified the stock sub speaker harness (not the stock amp harness); removing the sub terminal connecters. Then connected the sub to the modified sub harness.
  8. Mounted the sub back into the enclosure ensuring it was sealed and wires were connected
  9. Installed a functional Ford amp on the enclosure - no modding necessary
  10. Reinstalled the sub enclosure in the cabin; connecting the existing / stock wiring harness.
  11. Reinstalled all the panels.
  12. **** Tested to ensure the Bronco was still happy **** Turned the car on ensured the sound system worked and no issues.
  13. Took out the windows 11 laptop with FORScan installed and plugged in the OBX adapter. (keep in mind I had already requested a temporary license key for FORScan).
  14. Connected the the OBX adapter to the Bronco, already having FORScan up and running on the latptop.
  15. **** Connected to the Bronco and made a backup of the vehicle setting with FORScan *****
  16. Loaded the ACM Module to modify 727-01-01:
  17. Modified my as built from "382B 14F1 0098" changing only one character "4" to a "6"; I paused for a moment and noticed one other character changed as well automatically. I suspect this was the result of a checksum performed. The end result was my 727-01-01 line: "382B 16F1 009A"; Realize I only made the one character change "4 to 6" (14F1), but the "8" (0098)was changed automatically to "A".
  18. I wrote the change via FORScan to the vehicle; then restarted the vehicle. ***Again I would brush up on how to use FORScan before attempting this. Its not hard, just precise - so take your time.
  19. When I restarted the car, I noticed my stereo was now on AM. Also, all my settings for bass, mid and treble were set flat again. I believe this is part of the restart process.
  20. I tested the sytems now, and the sub was completely functional. I played it for about 15 minutes, changing different sound settings. The bass was overwhelming so I had to turn that down.
Thats it! Ive tested it a few times now; turning the vehicle on and off, turning it up to the volume up to 25, and it works great! Actually its too loud now. Im leaving the Ford Fusion amp in and returned the other Bronco amp to the person that let me borrow it.

Lessoned Learned:
  • Understand what FORScan does and how it works. I did not have any issues, but I can see how you can really cause issues rushing and not following steps. Don't just make changes and hope for the best. its precise.
  • I would recommend the six inch kicker sub for the stock non-B&O enclosure as I expect you wont have to modify the sub existing enclosure much, its cheaper, and I alot of air movement from the 8" sub I installed in the stock enclosure (I didnt close the port). Finally (and this is a personal preference), The 8" inch sub is too much bass for me. I had to turn the bass way down.
  • I still would upgrade the dash speakers to the Hertz 100.3. The kick panel and the rears, maybe. Currently, this project turned out better than expected.
Please see the pics below for my settings after the change.

Hi!! I saw you noted “Modified the stock sub speaker harness (not the stock amp harness); removing the sub terminal connecters. Then connected the sub to the modified sub harness.” What is this you modified ? And modified sub harness ? I want to get the kicker 6” sub will I need a new harness to connect it ? Thx
 

Pressurized

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Yeah. I saw a pic of one pulled apart and it says 2x2ohm but it’s wired how you would typically wire 2 voice coils in parallel for 1ohms. Although the way the amplifier is wire inside could result in a series connection. Id be leaning towards a 4 ohm load as 1 ohm stable cheap-o factory amp may not be the norm. No real way to tell.

I ordered a 2x2ohm bazooka replacement woofer for a 6 inch tube. Looks pretty similar to the OEM unit as far as magnet size and dimensions. We will see how it goes.

I would love to find a factory woofer just to keep it 100% stock. Just looking for a little extra bass/mid bass. I do have a basement full of old car audio gear but told myself I wasnt going to tear her apart for a complete upgrade.

If someone has a factory woofer, Id love to buy it from you!
I suspect (build is scheduled for 4/24) that they did the same thing that Jeep did with their amp and DVC sub. Same 2ohm x 2ohm configuration. The amp produces 2 identical signals to the 2 voice coils. Not at all like we would do in the aftermarket world, but it seems to work.
 

gaaangs

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"There is no setting to adjust the bass level in the Bronco standard audio?"

Yes, but that affects all speakers (that don't have a bass blocker). Sometimes I want more sub only or less sub only - if that makes sense.

I guess I could put an aftermarket level control back there. Maybe a BT one exists...
Which Kicker sub did you use? This one?

Kicker 48CWRT672 CompRT Series shallow-mount 6-3/4" subwoofer with dual 2-ohm voice coils at Crutchfield

Did that not come with a sub control?
 

Bronccat

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gaaangs

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Bronccat

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gaaangs

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I did the install today (Focus amp and 6.75" kicker) and it was Gravy. Plug and play. I'm pretty please with the sound overall.​
Question however. Is there a Forscan setting that gives you more access re: sound control? Like subwoofer level?​
TIA​
Also, did you do any sound dappening or lay any dyna mat when you did your install? If not, are you experiencing any rattling or anything like that?

I just bought the amp and kicker sub - I am going to try and install it think weekend - I will post pics of the process.
 

Catmandu1999

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The kicker fit without any mods to the oem sub enclosure? Any pics?
Yes, drops right in the hole, screws into the enclosure plastic. Only 'mod' was adding a bit of wire to two of the leads on the harness scavenged from the dummy sub.

I screwed the OEM cover with the foam ring on top of it just because.
 

Jhlebica18

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My amp comes today and I will be doing this later. Just curious what everyone wrote on forscan. I’ve know 16F1 on the second block works but I’ve seen on this thread the forscan from the f150 forum works too and if I wrote 2AF1 it changes the acm to speakers and tweeters instead of just tweeters.
 
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I used 16F1 and worked perfectly, I used the focus amp and kicker sub. Such a great improvement to the base audio set up.

The only thing is it can be heavy bass, so I tend to lower the bass a good bit in the general settings.

for those that have the same set up, are you all doing the same thing just lowering the setting or is there a forscan code to help with the kicker sub EQ?

I tried the one mentioned earlier in the forum but it made the sub disconnect for some reason.
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