2025 Suspension Recommendations (by Snacktime)

[EasternSierra]

My understanding of a diff drop is that it corrects severe angles in your CVs and axle. Drop the diff with a lot of lift (3-4" according to this) to recover some of that angle, basically so your CVs aren't at their max angle with the diff.

I can't seem to find the graph right now (was sure I'd saved it!), though it's been posted here various times. IIRC, with the Badlands the CV joints have little room to safely handle more droop than under stock conditions. It seems to me, looking at that graph in the past, that adding 2" of lift would push the CV joints entirely out of the safe zone, at least if you're going to full droop. I'd be happy to be wrong about this.

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[B22-2023]

Eibach starts to lose out when you get to bigger tires and weight. @userdude is telling you exactly why once you hit a lot weight it takes more to take the bounce out. Eibach are amazing when you are near stock weight and running a lighter tire.

Don't mix shocks, every shock is valved different and this makes for poor harmonics.

Moab is super amazing wheeling! I found lower lift to be extremely beneficial on trails especially off camber situations. I would keep the stock Fox shocks and add perch collars. If you want another 1" I would stack a leveling kit on top. You have some of the best riding suspension you can get, don't get sold on better. You are not going to get better until you spend money on custom shocks that are stiffer, nothing off the shelf is going to beat them.

Thanks for the answer. Since I’m at 1 inch level kit plus 1.5 inch perch collar already on Fox 2.0, would you suggest increase the perch by say an inch? And skip something like Fox 2.5 all around and wait to do something like an Accutune custom setup.

 

[Snacktime]

Thanks for the answer. Since I’m at 1 inch level kit plus 1.5 inch perch collar already on Fox 2.0, would you suggest increase the perch by say an inch? And skip something like Fox 2.5 all around and wait to do something like an Accutune custom setup.

Depends how much actual lift you have. If you have lost over an 1" to added weight more spacer is fine. If you lost 2" of lift to weight then no off the shelf shock is going to really ride better than what you have. You are on the right track of Accutune being one of the best solutions.

 

[BroncoStorm]

Depends how much actual lift you have. If you have lost over an 1" to added weight more spacer is fine. If you lost 2" of lift to weight then no off the shelf shock is going to really ride better than what you have. You are on the right track of Accutune being one of the best solutions.

I recommend the 8112 Bilstein zone control DSA + for whoever wants the absolute best on and offroad performance with 35’s.

Peep this thread.

 

[BAUS67]

What body lift options are out there besides BroncBuster? I've only really come across that option, and they start at like 1"

Or is it just get in there and stack fender washers under the rubber bumpers?

Well, there is always this old school option........

.........the good old fashion hockey puck. Gives you about 3/4 of an inch per puck.

 

[Oldhippie]

What body lift options are out there besides BroncBuster? I've only really come across that option, and they start at like 1"

Or is it just get in there and stack fender washers under the rubber bumpers?

https://www.mikellisbodylifts.com/bronco/body-lift-for-6th-gen-bronco

 

[Sitruc_btb]

I can't seem to find the graph right now (was sure I'd saved it!), though it's been posted here various times. IIRC, with the Badlands the CV joints have little room to safely handle more droop than under stock conditions. It seems to me, looking at that graph in the past, that adding 2" of lift would push the CV joints entirely out of the safe zone, at least if you're going to full droop. I'd be happy to be wrong about this.

This one?

 

[Lak34ers]

This is the current recommendation on how to choose your lift. I no longer recommend spacer lifts, this is due to possible cv axle damage and added wear to front differential seals. I am also not recommending lift springs since they don't always net the same lift and that you need more shock to control them. I have become much less concerned with suspension travel as we find the limits of stock parts. This is based on running stock parts like factory cv-axles which is the biggest limiting factor to lifts.

0-2" Lift on 35s from Malls to Mild Trails -Your not going to disrupt the driving characteristics or effect long term reliability

• Perch collars, stiffens the ride and okay if low mileage.
• 5100s Bilsteins are the cheapest recommendable shock replacement, they have better dampening with increased road feedback. Best option for NON-SAS Broncos.
• 6100s Bilsteins are an upgrade over 5100, they are better suited to bigger tires only work on SAS broncos. Best option for SAS Broncos.
• Eibach Stage 2.0 Pro Truck with normal springs, "subjective" but most likely the best ride, they are designed for less road feedback. Best option for a 35" and smaller tire and if you are fairly stock. Have easy adjustment to get that perfect lift.

0-2" Lift on 35s Mild Trails to you have added some weight-Your are going to disrupt the driving characteristics!

• Perch collars, stiffens the ride and okay if low mileage.
• 5100s Bilsteins provide known lift and can counter the weight of extra items. Best option for NON-SAS Broncos.
• 6100s Bilsteins provide known lift and can counter the weight of extra items. Best option for SAS Broncos.

2-4" of lift beacuse you need the ground clearance or lots of weight, going to have adverse driving characteristics and lots of wear and tear. You will want a differential drop if over 3" of lift. Upper control arms should be added after 3" of lift.

• Body lift 1.5" or 2" or 3" stacked with a lower lift.
• 2.5" Shocks
  • 6100s Bilsteins but they are really running out of lift.
  • 6112 Bilsteins for the NON-SAS broncos.
  • Icon EXP Shocks which go up to 3"
• Real 2.5" coilovers
  • Kings
  • Fox
  • Icon
  • Insert name here

Going to 37" Tires, you are now adding wear and tear to the vehicle and effecting long term reliability

• Clearance to prevent hitting the top of the fender
  • Shock specifically designed for 37s.
  • Body lift, you need to add at least 1/2" to 3/4". Less long term wear.
  • 1" leveling kit to space down the front coilover. More long term wear and not recommend for M190 differential Broncos. You will want a front differential drop.
  • Shock shaft spacer provided by the shock manufacturer.
• Some form of lift
  • Perch collars you have to much tire for the stock shocks.
  • Eibach Stage 2.0 Bilsteins are stiffer and handle the heavy tire better.
  • 5100s Bilsteins starting to be the limit of what a 2" shock can dampen.
  • 6100s Bilsteins best solution as they are big enough to control the tire.
  • 2.5" Shocks
  • 2.5" Coilovers

5+" Bracket lifts are not currently recommend for any reason. This is opening a can of worms that leads to stress.

Don't forget the new Fox HTO. Someone needs to test and review them.

 

[nolimits]

@Snacktime have you had a chance to test out the Eibach 2.0 coilovers with their HD springs? The actual kit and not piece mealing it together.

I went this route to help offset the weight gain I picked up when putting new front & rear bumpers on along with a front winch. Also I went to Yoko 37’s which are about 76# and Icon Rebound Pros which are around 29#. Wanted Cooper STT Pros but the 37’s was out of stock and now shows as discontinued. While my weight did go up for a 37 I feel it’s on reasonably light for the size.

Finally I optioned for some Icon tubular DJ UCA’s as I caught a good deal on them and figured I was pushing the limits.

I’ve only had this setup installed a few weeks but so far have been impressed as it’s better than stock (Badlands non-SAS). I haven’t really put it through the wringer on the trails yet but have hit some mild stuff and again pleased. Of course I’m not blasting through like I’m in a Hammers event either.

Curious what I should be looking for with these variables from your more experience POV.

 

[WILDcardOD]

Is this referencing from stock or from Sasquatch? I don’t plan to go beyond 35 inches which came on my wildtrak but I’m really intrigued by the ride shocks upgrade for improved performance in the dunes (not that I do anything too crazy but to make the whoops smoother)

 

[Dantastic]

This is the current recommendation on how to choose your lift. I no longer recommend spacer lifts, this is due to possible cv axle damage and added wear to front differential seals.

Any concerns with just running a 1 inch leveling kit on the front to offset droop from the added weight of a winch? I am running the 1 inch Zone Offroad leveling kit on the front.

 

[mpeugeot]

I forgot they're not adjustable.

With my current setup (full SFR plates/sliders/bumpers, 73lbs M/T's), I'm about 180lbs over stock (BL Sas) in the 2dr, plus about 20-30lbs of crap when I go out. The problem I'm having with the stock Bilsteins is bottoming out in the back; if I'm sliding down a ledge, I'm banging in the back a lot more than before I upgraded the plates/bumper/sliders. So it feels like I should upgrade springs and/or shocks. I don't plan on going a lot heavier, either. Is that something the 6100's would help with? Or is that more of a spring issue.

It’s probably more of a spring issue with the stock Bilstein's, because the ESC-V should be getting very stiff at high shock speeds nearing the end of their travel. 6100's certainly wouldn't hurt the situation, but I think that you might benefit from a stiffer spring (which I just might happen to have for you in my garage) depending on the spring you currently have (it may be the same spring).

MB3Z-5560-F are the rear springs I have.

 

[mpeugeot]

Any concerns with just running a 1 inch leveling kit on the front to offset droop from the added weight of a winch? I am running the 1 inch Zone Offroad leveling kit on the front.

It’s not the way you want to do it, but it isn't likely to cause any short term harm. A lot depends on how hard you are pushing your Bronco. On a mall crawler, it's not going to be a problem. Get out on tough trails and that's where you find out the limits of the CV's quickly. These CV's separate pretty easily at their limits.

 

[userdude]

Eibach starts to lose out when you get to bigger tires and weight. @userdude is telling you exactly why once you hit a lot weight it takes more to take the bounce out. Eibach are amazing when you are near stock weight and running a lighter tire.

Here's a better explanation:

Add'l unsprung weight: 4 x 19lbs = 76lbs
Add'l sprung weight: 80lbs + 19lbs + 30lbs = 129lbs

Is the unsprung weight in the territory of stiffer springs (2dr), like maybe the 6112s (if it's a stiffer spring than Sas) or the Eibach 2.0's w/HD springs (is it too stiff)?

And is the dampening of the 6100's enough for weight increase, or am I really looking at those for their variable height re: sprung weight?

 

[userdude]

I can't seem to find the graph right now (was sure I'd saved it!), though it's been posted here various times. IIRC, with the Badlands the CV joints have little room to safely handle more droop than under stock conditions. It seems to me, looking at that graph in the past, that adding 2" of lift would push the CV joints entirely out of the safe zone, at least if you're going to full droop. I'd be happy to be wrong about this.

Yeah, I don't know. I've heard 2" (or more specific 2.2") is safe for a couple years now. Snacktime's guidance is 3" or more. So I don't know.

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