3” ADVENTURE SERIES LIFT KIT FOR SASQUATCH AND BADLANDS

[RubiconSasquatch]

Yay! Look me up next time you're on the Right coast and let's do that! And If I make it down your way first (Likely in the next year or two), I'll do the same...

Your terms are acceptable. Assuming I even have my bronco by then… otherwise I’ll be forced to slum it in one of my Jeeps, haha

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[zuke]

Your terms are acceptable. Assuming I even have my bronco by then… otherwise I’ll be forced to slum it in one of my Jeeps, haha

Being in a Jeep ain't slumming! Depending on the trails we chose around here, I'd likely be in a Jeep too... I don't expect the Bronco to go everywhere My jeeps can right now, But they're all mostly retired from the road, and, ummm, not particularly comfortable for daily use!

 

[zuke]

Installed the lift yesterday, Haven't gotten the Tires and wheels back yet...

Before;

After;

Sorry for the angles not being the same, wasn't able to position it exactly the same.

End result is the front is actually right at 3" and the rear is slightly less than 2", Both are so close it could actually be errors in measurement on my part finding the center of the wheel.

The install was pretty trouble free, but the instructions are confusing in some places because they cover the whole Adventure series of lift kits, so there are steps with labels like;

4 Door Sasquatch and 4 Door Badland Models skip this step:

2 Door Sasquatch or Badlands Package Models:

4 Door Models Only:

Which wouldn't be so bad if they weren't intermixed in the middle of whole sections that your ignoring, because they don't apply... Such as disassembling the Rear strut, which you don't do on the 4 door Squatch and Badlands, but you do on everything else.

Basically, You really have to pay attention to these labels as you go through, I'd recommend a careful read through the printed instructions first, and highlighting the steps that apply to your build first.


Then there is Step 30, Where you have to pay attention in the middle of the paragraph;

30. Install the shorter 10mm bolts (45mm long) through the hex holes on the bottom of the front strut spacer (05047 or 05113). The front strut spacer will have a slight taper to it. Attach strut spacer on top of the factory strut with high side of the taper towards the outside of the vehicle. Black Body Struts: Tighten to the top plate using the provided 10mm washers and OE strut nuts to 35 ft-lbs as shown in Figure 20C. Sasquatch or Badlands (Bilstein Yellow Body) Struts: Tighten to the top plate using the provided 10mm washers and provided 10mm nuts to 35 ft-lbs. DO NOT EXCEED 35 ft-lbs when tightening the spacer to the strut.

I added the bold, In the rear, and all other kits you use the OEM Nuts on the top of the spacer, If you use the OEM here, they'll stick up above the top of the spacer. It was pretty obvious as soon as I saw it, but I had to go back and read the step again...

Step 22-23;

22. The rear studs will need to be trimmed for the strut spacer to be installed. The studs must be 1" tall from the mounting surface

23. Install the longer 10mm bolts (50mm long bolts are in the 368 Bolt Pack and 60mm long bolts are in the 370 Bolt Pack) through the hex holes on the bottom of the rear strut spacer (05115) Figure 34A. Attach strut spacer on top of the factory strut

Since I did the rear first, (Low hanging fruit the rear is a lot easier), I had a pause trying to figure out why I a had a pin on the top of the strut that wouldn't let me put the spacer on, You have to remove it, But there is no mention of it , They do mention it in the front install, and I would have realized it right off if I had done the front first.

Finally When you do the fronts, there is a lot of emphasis placed on marking everything on the strut and making sure you put it back together with the same orientation, but no mention of the fact that the top is gonna be roughly 45 degrees different from start because of the spacer bolts being in a different position than OEM, as long as you remember that while reassembling the strut, it's not a problem, but if you don't you'll have to relieve pressure on the spring so you can spin the bottom of the strut and get the bar pin in the right position, like I ended up doing on the front driver.

I'll post more after I get the Tires/Wheels on and get an Alignment, Not sure when the first chance I'll get to actually wheel it will be, might not be until Memorial day when I have a Uwharrie weekend planned, but I'll try to check articulation before then.

 

[broncoepic]

Except that spacer lifts allow bigger tires, bigger tires provide more ground clearance, more ground clearance equals better off-road capability. For me, it made the difference between getting denied trying to make it up to the top of Bronco Knoll, and making it. I have a couple of videos on it.

I agree, it's not optimal. But there's more reason to use a spacer lift than just fitting big tires for looks.

It feels so good to go back and clear an obstacle after making the necessary upgrades and adjustments to your rig. This is one of the reasons why I keep tinkering with mine. At the end of the day, all that matters is that it works out on the trail.

 

[Primed_in]

Following for more feedback once you beat on it, this might just be the thing I’m looking for

 

[zuke]

Done and Done!

 

[Dusty]

It feels so good to go back and clear an obstacle after making the necessary upgrades and adjustments to your rig. This is one of the reasons why I keep tinkering with mine. At the end of the day, all that matters is that it works out on the trail.

It "almost" erases the shame of not making it up the obstacle in the first place! Almost, but not quite LOL. In the example I cited, I REALLY wanted to proved that the stripper Base model Bronco could get to the top of Bronco Knoll. I think I probably could have done so if I had thrashed it harder but I was without a backup vehicle and a long walk back to the highway in 106* desert heat

But yes going back with better equipment and making it is a triumph. I think that's why most of us who wheel never quite consider them "finished".

 

[broncoepic]

It "almost" erases the shame of not making it up the obstacle in the first place! Almost, but not quite LOL. In the example I cited, I REALLY wanted to proved that the stripper Base model Bronco could get to the top of Bronco Knoll. I think I probably could have done so if I had thrashed it harder but I was without a backup vehicle and a long walk back to the highway in 106* desert heat

But yes going back with better equipment and making it is a triumph. I think that's why most of us who wheel never quite consider them "finished".

Agreed! It's never finished, always waiting for the next upgrade. I've enjoyed watching your videos. I assume the next wave of videos will be of "United By Bronco"

 

[Lurker B6G]

Because the Bilstein system already provides as much travel as you can use without making more modifications than a $5000 coil over system is gonna provide by itself anyway...

I think that what is said above is understated on this site (relative to the front end). Those that are waiting for aftermarket coil-overs with more travel will need to address the CV issues at the same time - and this will not be easy. The Bilstein's are already using nearly all that the CV's can give.

We know that both the Badlands and the SAS (bump stop limited) are at the limit of up-travel.

Based on my OPINION from derived from various assumptions, the SAS package is near the maximum CV droop. My OPINION is that it can safely handle about 0.8 inches of additional droop (spacer lift). And again, based on my OPINION, the Badlands can safely handle 1.4 inches of additional droop (spacer lift). By no means is this written in stone - but, I have managed to come to my conclusions.

This means that the adding aftermarket coil-overs will have VERY LITTLE impact in the overall front end travel unless other measures are taken at the same time to address the CV's.


New Topic - This 3" kit (front end only)

This kit looks to be split very close to 50/50. There appears to be a 1.0 inch tall spacer and a 1.0 inch tall preload collar. These each provide about 1.5 inches of lift due to the front end ratio. As with all hybrid kits, these components should be looked at separately.

First the spacer = 1.5 inches of lift. I would say that this is at the limit for a Badlands, and I would personally avoid adding quite so much spacer lift to a SAS.

Second the preload = 1.5 inches of lift (1 inch of piston displacement). This moves the Bilstein's piston close to point were the internal valving starts becoming active. It also reduces downward travel (droop) by 1.5 inches. I would personally limit preload use to about an inch or so (0.5-0.75 inch collar / spring spacer), but this is rather subjective. In fact, given the function of the Bilstein system, it might be best to use an ALL spacer lift, and just limit maximum droop using a strap. Or engineer a CV drop, or portals, or...

This really points out how limited the options are for the owners of the Bilstein suspensions. The good news is they are very capable suspensions. The bad news is that due to the extra travel, and the fact that the shocks need to run near the middle of their range - any kind of lifting must be approached very conservatively and with an understanding of the trade-offs.

YMMV

 

[zuke]

I think that what is said above is understated on this site (relative to the front end). Those that are waiting for aftermarket coil-overs with more travel will need to address the CV issues at the same time - and this will not be easy. The Bilstein's are already using nearly all that the CV's can give.

We know that both the Badlands and the SAS (bump stop limited) are at the limit of up-travel.

Based on my OPINION from derived from various assumptions, the SAS package is near the maximum CV droop. My OPINION is that it can safely handle about 0.8 inches of additional droop (spacer lift). And again, based on my OPINION, the Badlands can safely handle 1.4 inches of additional droop (spacer lift). By no means is this written in stone - but, I have managed to come to my conclusions.

This means that the adding aftermarket coil-overs will have VERY LITTLE impact in the overall front end travel unless other measures are taken at the same time to address the CV's.


New Topic - This 3" kit (front end only)

This kit looks to be split very close to 50/50. There appears to be a 1.0 inch tall spacer and a 1.0 inch tall preload collar. These each provide about 1.5 inches of lift due to the front end ratio. As with all hybrid kits, these components should be looked at separately.

First the spacer = 1.5 inches of lift. I would say that this is at the limit for a Badlands, and I would personally avoid adding quite so much spacer lift to a SAS.

Second the preload = 1.5 inches of lift (1 inch of piston displacement). This moves the Bilstein's piston close to point were the internal valving starts becoming active. It also reduces downward travel (droop) by 1.5 inches. I would personally limit preload use to about an inch or so (0.5-0.75 inch collar / spring spacer), but this is rather subjective. In fact, given the function of the Bilstein system, it might be best to use an ALL spacer lift, and just limit maximum droop using a strap. Or engineer a CV drop, or portals, or...

This really points out how limited the options are for the owners of the HOSS suspensions. The good news is they are very capable suspensions. The bad news is that due to the extra travel, and the fact that the shocks need to run near the middle of their range - any kind of lifting must be approached very conservatively and with an understanding of the trade-offs.

YMMV

I think your assumptions are all pretty good, I checked for binding of the CV's at full droop and lock to lock, and while the CVs didn't ever bind. the angles I observed were alarming (Ditto the tie rods). I don't expect any problems from them in my regular use, but I do expect them to wear much faster than they normally would. I would also expect that from all the Coil over kits..

I did not check with the Sway bar disconnected, and should have, I plan on doing that this weekend. Even with the sway bar connected though, one side should have been at full droop, so I don't expect problems when I check disconnected, I'll report back with my findings, and try to get some pics of the angles..

I plan to check with RCV on what they have planned. As far as I can tell from the current description of the Bronco half shafts, they don't have more travel than the stock shafts, but they do allude to being able to make a set with higher angles of travel.

 

[zuke]

Update1

The promised pictures of CV and Tie Rod angles;

There is no bind anywhere lock to lock, but I'm sure these angles will lead to premature wear, and it likely affects the strength of the joints when they take a hit.

Also found that the tires would touch the rear crash bar mount when at full ock on the ground and reversing, so I trimmed a bit off the mounts, Probably more than needed, but I wanted to be sure... The rub is gone now..

 

[Oldhippie]

Thanks for sharing!! Wow! Those are some serious angles! Are these with the sway bar disconnected? I like the added ground and tire clearance but think I will wait a while to see how this works out on you “genie pigs” need to get a Bronco and wear the 35”s out before thinking 37”s...

Update1

The promised pictures of CV and Tie Rod angles;

There is no bind anywhere lock to lock, but I'm sure these angles will lead to premature wear, and it likely affects the strength of the joints when they take a hit.

Also found that the tires would touch the rear crash bar mount when at full ock on the ground and reversing, so I trimmed a bit off the mounts, Probably more than needed, but I wanted to be sure... The rub is gone now..

 

[zuke]

Thanks for sharing!! Wow! Those are some serious angles! Are these with the sway bar disconnected? I like the added ground and tire clearance but think I will wait a while to see how this works out on you “genie pigs” need to get a Bronco and wear the 35”s out before thinking 37”s...

That is disconected, though it didn't seem to make much of a difference with both sides off the ground.

Here is ride height;

 

[Oldhippie]

That is much better! Thanks for posting!

That is disconected, though it didn't seem to make much of a difference with both sides off the ground.

Here is ride height;

 

[Cybindustries1904]

Got mine installed love it

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