37’s and lift needed?

[GreenMtnBronco]

I had a question about a lift and putting 37‘s on my bronco when I get it…….


Build: 4dr Bronco Badlands w/SAS Eruption Green.


I reached out to a local shop and they got back to me with the message below. I’m looking to take this truck camping with the family and off road as much as possible, no rock crawling.

This is the response I got:

You're going to need around 5 inches of lift to clear 37s. A decent 5" kit installed is about $2500 plus tax, which includes parts, labor and an alignment. I typically recommend customers budget another $2500-3000 for wheels and tires, especially with the larger tires like 37s.
If you have any questions or specific parts you're looking, please don't hesitate to call or email!

Edit: I responded and asked if I could do a 3 inch lift and received the following response:

A 37" tire will fit on a 3" lift but there will be slight rubbing issues. 37s will clear on a 5" lift without rubbing. You can definitely go with a 3" lift and we can see where the tire rubs and see what can done to rectify it. Offset definitely plays a role, all the factory Bronco wheels expect the 17" with beadlock have a +55mm offset, that keeps the wheel too
far inboard for a large diameter tire to fit
cleanly. The 17" beadlock has a +30mm offset that brings the wheel out a full inch that makes it easier to clear a 37. But the overall diameter itself is the main reason for bringing the body up higher. You really want to get the body up and away from the largest section of the tire so it has the most room to swing as you turn the steering wheel.


Do I really need a 5 inch lift?!?!?

Definitely don’t want any rubbing issue either….

Just wanted a second opinion on my build

Thanks

I just did 37s on a badsquatch. I put on the Icon 3" spacer lift and have 3" coilovers on order. the only rub we had was a small piece of plastic that we trimmed off. Shop is a strong offroad shop.

as for the prices your guy gave you, my 37" NItto grapplers on Fuel Vectors ran $4500 from 4WP, the saving grace was selling my Squatch wheels/tires for $2500.

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[GreenBadlands]

I just did 37s on a badsquatch. I put on the Icon 3" spacer lift and have 3" coilovers on order. the only rub we had was a small piece of plastic that we trimmed off. Shop is a strong offroad shop.

as for the prices your guy gave you, my 37" NItto grapplers on Fuel Vectors ran $4500 from 4WP, the saving grace was selling my Squatch wheels/tires for $2500.

Thanks for the info, the truck looks badass. Love the look! I’m just trying to find a quality shop that can do the install for me. It’s been tough, unless someone has a good suggestion for a shop in the northeast. Don’t mind driving to get the work done, just want it done right.

 

[KenNessee]

37s fit a SAS with stick wheels and NO lift in the rear. 3/4 spacer in the front is needed. Also trim crash bars back a bit. This is easy and inexpensive...( unless you run a wide offset wheel, then you'll clear the front crash bar, but likey hit on the rear of the lower fender and need to trim there)
After 10,000 miles like this I decided to raise mine 2” total with spacers, trimmed bump stops and new shock mount location on rear axle.

So stoked it works SO well now and feel much better that stock.

This pic is with factory rear height and 3/4 front level kit.

37x12.5x17

I've seen the 1" and 1.25" front levels, how did you do the 3/4? Thanks.

 

[BigMeatsBronco]

I've seen the 1" and 1.25" front levels, how did you do the 3/4? Thanks.

The RC kit includes upper and lower spacers for the mounts, I just used the lower to achieve 3/4

 

[Bradley Thornton]

The RC kit includes upper and lower spacers for the mounts, I just used the lower to achieve 3/4

I like your style

 

[Tricky Dick]

The RC kit includes upper and lower spacers for the mounts, I just used the lower to achieve 3/4

How thick are the spacers on the RC kit? You found the front and rear coilovers have the same bolt pattern on top right, so a guy could use the leftover front spacer in the rear? If I could go 1/4-3/8 rear and 3/4 front that would be ideal.

 

[BigMeatsBronco]

There were upper and lower spacers in the kit, I dont recall the thickness but I think it was about 3/8 on the bottome and the rest up top...I used only the lowers for 3 months, now I have fabtec 1.5 spacer in the front up top. And the RC spacer on the bottom, for a total of 2" more ride height.

 

[Lurker B6G]

How thick are the spacers on the RC kit? You found the front and rear coilovers have the same bolt pattern on top right, so a guy could use the leftover front spacer in the rear? If I could go 1/4-3/8 rear and 3/4 front that would be ideal.

RC 1" Level Kit - Each side
Two top only spacers = 3/16" each.
One bottom only spacer = 1/4".

OPTION 1
Front = All spacers = (0.19+0.19+0.25) x 1.5 = 0.94"
Level = 0.94"

OPTION 2
Front = (0.19+0.25) x 1.5 = 0.66"
Rear = 0.19"
Level = 0.66-0.19 = 0.47"

OPTION 3
Front = (0.25) x 1.5 = 0.37"
Rear = (0.19+0.19) = 0.38"
Level = 0.37-0.38 = -0.01"

Note that with 2 kits the options are much more varied. The big issue is that you can't use more than 2 spacers on either the front or rear tops using the factory bolts. So you can not raise the back more than 0.38" using this method. But keep in mind that you can stack two of the front lower spacers as shown on their 5 inch kit. FWIW - Your goals are well within the safe zone for a BL (wouldn't want to spacer lift the front more than about 1" x 1.5 = 1.5" net).

Example 2 kit option
Front = (0.25+0.19+0.19) x 1.5 = 0.94"
Rear = (0.19+0.19) = 0.38"
Level = 0.94-0.38 = 0.56"

Good Luck

 

[Tricky Dick]

RC 1" Level Kit - Each side
Two top only spacers = 3/16" each.
One bottom only spacer = 1/4".

OPTION 1
Front = All spacers = (0.19+0.19+0.25) x 1.5 = 0.94"
Level = 0.94"

OPTION 2
Front = (0.19+0.25) x 1.5 = 0.66"
Rear = 0.19"
Level = 0.66-0.19 = 0.47"

OPTION 3
Front = (0.25) x 1.5 = 0.37"
Rear = (0.19+0.19) = 0.38"
Level = 0.37-0.38 = -0.01"

Note that with 2 kits the options are much more varied. The big issue is that you can't use more than 2 spacers on either the front or rear tops using the factory bolts. So you can not raise the back more than 0.38" using this method. But keep in mind that you can stack two of the front lower spacers as shown on their 5 inch kit. FWIW - Your goals are well within the safe zone for a BL (wouldn't want to spacer lift the front more than about 1" x 1.5 = 1.5" net).

Example 2 kit option
Front = (0.25+0.19+0.19) x 1.5 = 0.94"
Rear = (0.19+0.19) = 0.38"
Level = 0.94-0.38 = 0.56"

Good Luck

The real MVP!

Option 2 looks good for me.

 

[PCDan]

1) 1.5-3" lift including 1" front strut spacer and 1.25" rear strut spacer (e.g. icon or zone) or equivalent coilovers. The strut spacers keep the tires away from fenders when bottomed out.
2) 20mm/0.75" quality spacer on sasquatch wheels, or 17x8.5+12 wheels. Note that there are only 8 turns on the front lugs, so smaller spacers are a risk unless you replace the studs. A lot of folks are running +0 offset, since there are more wheel options (Icon and Method in particular), but you may not like the steering and additional rub issues.
3) don't do this

Why don’t do that ?

 

[PCDan]

Welcome to the site Bill!

Check out the suspension sub section as it has a few threads on what people are doing with 37" tires and their experiences.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/forums/suspension-chassis-steering.18/

Short answer to your question. No you don't need 5" lift for 37 tires but there are things that should be considered as well when going with 37s (ie trimming crashbar supports, trimming factory rock rails, wheel offsets). Then the other factor is what needs to be beefed up due to the increase in stress on components (ie tie rods, steering rack, etc...)

Exactly - just put 37” Nitto Trail Grapplers with 0 offset wheels, and Fox Coilovers (3” front / 1.5” rear) on our First Edition, and we will need to cut the forward crash bar mount, cut the slider ends, and trim the plastic rear wheel well liner.

I don’t see how anyone with true 37s (BFGs are 36”) isn’t having to do mods, unless they’ve done a lift that limits travel and articulation. Most that say they have “no rubbing” also don’t post photos with their suspension fully flexed lol

 

[Dubsesd]

37s fit a SAS with stick wheels and NO lift in the rear. 3/4 spacer in the front is needed. Also trim crash bars back a bit. This is easy and inexpensive...( unless you run a wide offset wheel, then you'll clear the front crash bar, but likey hit on the rear of the lower fender and need to trim there)
After 10,000 miles like this I decided to raise mine 2” total with spacers, trimmed bump stops and new shock mount location on rear axle.

So stoked it works SO well now and feel much better that stock.

This pic is with factory rear height and 3/4 front level kit.

37x12.5x17

Off topic but what flares are those? I like them.

 

[rtaylor]

Why don’t do that ?

Was joking (note wink). A slight trim is probably needed. Mark with blue tape and use 4" angle grinder with cutoff wheel. Touch up with small brush and rustoleum flat or satin black to prevent rust.

Template for winch bumper crash bar cover, but also applicable to crash bar stub if you align the bolt holes.
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/maxlider-front-bumper.21879/post-1278016

 

[PCDan]

Was joking (note wink). A slight trim is probably needed. Mark with blue tape and use 4" angle grinder with cutoff wheel. Touch up with small brush and rustoleum flat or satin black to prevent rust.

Template for winch bumper crash bar cover, but also applicable to crash bar stub if you align the bolt holes.
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/maxlider-front-bumper.21879/post-1278016

Ahh gotcha …. Well a slight trim isn’t just probably needed, it’s definitely needed. I don’t see how any truck with true 37s doesn’t need the crash bar mount cut down…. with a 3” or less lift. And I personally would never do anything more than a 3” front lift without a dif drop or done as a long travel set up.

This photo is sitting flat … you don’t even have to flex it to know the tire is coming up into forward crash bar mount. I guess you could maybe avoid it with some big neg offset wheels or spacers …. Neither of which I would do.

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