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4.46 vs 4.7 locking diffs

Nybadlands22

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What are the pros and cons to both? Which should I prefer on 2.3l auto
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Drex

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`5% more engine revolutions for each wheel revolution. So a `5% increase in torque for 5% more wear and tear or tiny bit of worse MPG. They are nearly identical, not worth the cost to change from one to the other at all.
 

TheWoo

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What are the pros and cons to both? Which should I prefer on 2.3l auto
The two most common reasons you might consider upgrading to 4.7:

1. You plan to add a couple inches of tire size after delivery. If you're going to go 35s or definitely 37s, it could definitely make sense.

2. You do a lot of heavy (relative, given the 3500 pound tow max on Bronco) towing where you want to have more torque.

Otherwise, I don't believe there's a value in upgrading - argument could be for it being a negative, even.
 

VailDan

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What are the pros and cons to both? Which should I prefer on 2.3l auto
It
`5% more engine revolutions for each wheel revolution. So a `5% increase in torque for 5% more wear and tear or tiny bit of worse MPG. They are nearly identical, not worth the cost to change from one to the other at all.
The new 2022 B&P no longer shows this as a price increase. Not sure if it is correct, but it is now a choice. Not sure which one has 5% more engine revolutions, but is one more efficient at highway speeds?
 

RagnarKon

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@TheWoo pretty much nailed it. The larger the axle ratio, the more torque the vehicle will have at the expense of fuel mileage and top-end speed.

4.7 will be better for bigger tires... especially if you go larger than 37s.

4.46 will be fine for 33s, 35s, and probably even 37s (although 37s is kinda iffy). But if you go larger than 37s, definitely should get the 4.7.

I have a calculator that you can look at to see the effects of different axle ratios on different tire sizes.
 

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Nybadlands22

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Thank you. I was trying to figure out why someone wouldnā€™t go ahead and take the upgrade for free especially with 10 speeds. I would think mph would still be good. I do plan on going to atleast 35s, preferably 37s if I can get it lifted high enough affordably. Iā€™m non sas due to constraints and needing it sooner than later. How high do I have to go to fit 37s and can I do it without new coil overs?
 

ogo

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Thank you. I was trying to figure out why someone wouldnā€™t go ahead and take the upgrade for free especially with 10 speeds. I would think mph would still be good. I do plan on going to atleast 35s, preferably 37s if I can get it lifted high enough affordably. Iā€™m non sas due to constraints and needing it sooner than later. How high do I have to go to fit 37s and can I do it without new coil overs?
If you search on youtube for town & country ford, mitch from that dealership has a badlands non-sasquatch which they put a lift and coilovers with 37" tires. He had some rubbing, but I think that was mentioned could be fixed with some adjustments on the coilovers.
 

JohnnyBronco

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Thank you. I was trying to figure out why someone wouldnā€™t go ahead and take the upgrade for free especially with 10 speeds. I would think mph would still be good. I do plan on going to atleast 35s, preferably 37s if I can get it lifted high enough affordably. Iā€™m non sas due to constraints and needing it sooner than later. How high do I have to go to fit 37s and can I do it without new coil overs?
Compared to 32s that are standard?, 2.5" (half the difference in diameter, the otehr half is below axle centerline)


But adding 2.5" blocks all around affects your full suspension travel, may stiffen ride, and will definitely affect camber on the front, that left un-modified WILL lead to premature inside edge tire wear
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