ttboy

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The truth is we don't know exactly but we can take an educated guess. We can say that nothing affects the lockers, rims, and R&P ratio the pkg gets you. In fact, the great thing about the sas pkg is you do not have to buy larger rims to run 37s, which I think is awesome. Not using the bead locks you have an 8.5" wide rim, which all 37s I have seen manufactures allow mounting on that size rim, and if you do use the bead locks then you have a 9.5" wide rim. Once you see the cut-away of the rim this will make perfect sense to you.

Also, If I may change your adjective, nothing will be ruined by lifting a sas pkg (if you use quality parts) however, parts do have to be replaced and that can be viewed as spending money twice by some folks. The parts that MAY be different on the sas pkg is the front upper control arm and the rear control arms (either the lowers or uppers or both sets). There is no stated difference, that I am aware of, between suspension travel with the sas pkg vs. non. The ride height difference of a sas can be accomplished several different ways and we only have speculation at this point. One literally has to measure each suspension part to figure that out, and no one with access to both sas and non-sas have bothered to inform John Q. public.


The key is to use better than factory parts when you do replace items. The shocks have already been mentioned in this thread as a concern however, I have never seen a factory shock that was really worth a damn. These may be different, who knows. As far as control arms and rear panhard bar also called a track bar, the length, shape, and joints that are used is what matters. You want beef, greater range of motion, and adjustability.

In short, (IMO) the sas only gives you ~3/4" more ride height, the suspension parts that will need to be replaced for 3" of lift will be the same wither you have a sas pkg or not.
Thanks. Yeah switching out the bilstein suspension is probably the biggest concern, but maybe the quality of that suspension is overspoke. I hear about Fox parts, but that is different then the 4WP and may not be available. How would these 4wp parts likely compare to the Fox? Bilstein suspension?
 

bsb78

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Bad guy post incoming.

I’m skeptical that the base axle can handle 37s well. That is a lot of tire for an base factory axle to handle, and I’d worry about damaging the base drivetrain.

I doubt the 210 axle will be an issue with 37s, but then I’d worry about CV angle. I’m not an engineer, so maybe I’m wrong, but I’d be cautious about lifting and fitting 37s on anything not a Badlands or squatched.

Im incredibly utilitarian and don’t care about the look in the parking lot... who cares about how it looks versus how you need it to perform? Seems like a waste.
 

Ryuk

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Thanks. Yeah switching out the bilstein suspension is probably the biggest concern, but maybe the quality of that suspension is overspoke. I hear about Fox parts, but that is different then the 4WP and may not be available. How would these 4wp parts likely compare to the Fox? Bilstein suspension?
You question has been answered in regards to the stock Bilstein's in this post.

Fox is considered a very high quality product, but they do require occasional rebuilding depending on how often and how hard they are used. For those capable of doing that, it's considered a bonus as you don't need to replace them completely but this does incur a cost and time to do so.
 

GreenMtnBronco

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some I am one of those that doesn't like to spend $ twice. thinking about ordering my badlands without the Squatch package and going with a 2-3" lift and 35s. I have a jeep with 37s, overall concern is about highway driving (I do a 4 hr NY northern burbs to VT quite often) but then I have the dirt and Cat 4 roads in VT to enjoy.
Part of me is just saying get the squatch, it's fine for what I do, OTH it would be nice to have a great lift /suspension/wheel/tire package for not much more $. Yes, I realize I am sacrificing a different final drive gear and I would really hate to give up the locking diffs...
so it looks like I answered my own Question.. keep the squatch, then conisder what to do
 

Razorbak86

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some I am one of those that doesn't like to spend $ twice. thinking about ordering my badlands without the Squatch package and going with a 2-3" lift and 35s. I have a jeep with 37s, overall concern is about highway driving (I do a 4 hr NY northern burbs to VT quite often) but then I have the dirt and Cat 4 roads in VT to enjoy.
Part of me is just saying get the squatch, it's fine for what I do, OTH it would be nice to have a great lift /suspension/wheel/tire package for not much more $. Yes, I realize I am sacrificing a different final drive gear and I would really hate to give up the locking diffs...
so it looks like I answered my own Question.. keep the squatch, then conisder what to do
The Badlands suspension includes the front and rear locking differentials as standard. All you would be giving up from the Sasquatch Package is the beadlock-capable wheels, 35” tires, 4.7 final drive ratio, and slightly different bump stops.
 
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TJconvert2.7

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How much
 

shdwblckRS

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Alright, so my first post here, but seeing a lot of the questions/concerns about things in regards to running 37's pushed me to create an account. I've been lurking in the shadows for months now, pretty much loading the site every day to check out what new info has been released. Anyways, moving on.

I have a JK on 40's with the OEM Dana 44's and haven't had any issues. I wheel the piss out of my Jeep as well! From my standpoint based on the information I've seen in regards to offset of wheels (it being a positive offset is good, most of the wheel is on the inside of the center line vs like on Jeeps it's negative) is the ball joints being able to handle the tire. Considering the amount of F150's we've (being the place I work at) lifted with 37's, we see the ball joints go out, but no where near as common as Jeeps or Chevy's or Dodges (Ram's for those people who insist they're different). On the other hand, the rest of the suspension and steering hold up just fine!

As for the diff holding up, considering the truck is IFS, I doubt there's going to be too many issues even though it is a smaller ring gear diameter. The CV's...I think everyone is going to be surprised at how strong they are. I can't remember the last time we've had to replace any CV's on a lifted F150. I also know it's apples and oranges, but the CV's in the Focus RS are handling up to 700 whp and taking the abuse of hard launches (car comes stock with launch control). So I think Ford knows how to make the right components and make them strong enough to last.

Now for my ignorance in the matter, if the Bronco has an option for a front M210 diff, and people are looking to put 37's on it, that would be the one option I would look at getting.

On another note, I do know that 4WP poached one of the lead designers from Fox a few years ago, so I would imagine these new coilovers have a very, very similar design to something that Fox would produce. My questions are if they do have any internal bypasses like the 2.5" and 3.0" Fox/King coilovers have. If they do, I would imagine they are going to perform as good, if not better than the Bilsteins. Only time will really tell at this point.
 

Razorbak86

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Now for my ignorance in the matter, if the Bronco has an option for a front M210 diff, and people are looking to put 37's on it, that would be the one option I would look at getting.
The M210 Dana AdvanTEK independent front axle is optional on low to mid-level trims (Base, Big Bend, Black Diamond, Outer Banks) and standard on high-level trims (Badlands, Wildtrak, First Edition).
 

shdwblckRS

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Thank you for the clarification on that as I wasn’t too sure how that worked out.
 

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Burndog

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The truth is we don't know exactly but we can take an educated guess. We can say that nothing affects the lockers, rims, and R&P ratio the pkg gets you. In fact, the great thing about the sas pkg is you do not have to buy larger rims to run 37s, which I think is awesome. Not using the bead locks you have an 8.5" wide rim, which all 37s I have seen manufactures allow mounting on that size rim, and if you do use the bead locks then you have a 9.5" wide rim. Once you see the cut-away of the rim this will make perfect sense to you.

Also, If I may change your adjective, nothing will be ruined by lifting a sas pkg (if you use quality parts) however, parts do have to be replaced and that can be viewed as spending money twice by some folks. The parts that MAY be different on the sas pkg is the front upper control arm and the rear control arms (either the lowers or uppers or both sets). There is no stated difference, that I am aware of, between suspension travel with the sas pkg vs. non. The ride height difference of a sas can be accomplished several different ways and we only have speculation at this point. One literally has to measure each suspension part to figure that out, and no one with access to both sas and non-sas have bothered to inform John Q. public.


The key is to use better than factory parts when you do replace items. The shocks have already been mentioned in this thread as a concern however, I have never seen a factory shock that was really worth a damn. These may be different, who knows. As far as control arms and rear panhard bar also called a track bar, the length, shape, and joints that are used is what matters. You want beef, greater range of motion, and adjustability.

In short, (IMO) the sas only gives you ~3/4" more ride height, the suspension parts that will need to be replaced for 3" of lift will be the same wither you have a sas pkg or not.
All great points. I'll add the 4.7 gears as well, if you are going with the 2.7. You definitely want at least that gear for 37s. If not, add new gearing, front and rear, to that. From what I heard on a video, changing the front gearing will take a bit of time so labor also a concern.
 
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toymaster

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All great points. I'll add the 4.7 gears as well, if you are going with the 2.7. You definitely want at least that gear for 37s. If not, add new gearing, front and rear, to that. From what I heard on a video, changing the front gearing will take a bit of time so labor also a concern.
R&P = ring and pinion gears, as mentioned. And, yes the front diff is a clam shell type with some disassembly required to remove it. It will take some getting used to but in truth I always pull the axle housing to do a R&P this way one I can rotate it and put it at a good height to work on, helps to get a better outcome.
 

moisea

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You question has been answered in regards to the stock Bilstein's in this post.

Fox is considered a very high quality product, but they do require occasional rebuilding depending on how often and how hard they are used. For those capable of doing that, it's considered a bonus as you don't need to replace them completely but this does incur a cost and time to do so.
Alright, so my first post here, but seeing a lot of the questions/concerns about things in regards to running 37's pushed me to create an account. I've been lurking in the shadows for months now, pretty much loading the site every day to check out what new info has been released. Anyways, moving on.

I have a JK on 40's with the OEM Dana 44's and haven't had any issues. I wheel the piss out of my Jeep as well! From my standpoint based on the information I've seen in regards to offset of wheels (it being a positive offset is good, most of the wheel is on the inside of the center line vs like on Jeeps it's negative) is the ball joints being able to handle the tire. Considering the amount of F150's we've (being the place I work at) lifted with 37's, we see the ball joints go out, but no where near as common as Jeeps or Chevy's or Dodges (Ram's for those people who insist they're different). On the other hand, the rest of the suspension and steering hold up just fine!

As for the diff holding up, considering the truck is IFS, I doubt there's going to be too many issues even though it is a smaller ring gear diameter. The CV's...I think everyone is going to be surprised at how strong they are. I can't remember the last time we've had to replace any CV's on a lifted F150. I also know it's apples and oranges, but the CV's in the Focus RS are handling up to 700 whp and taking the abuse of hard launches (car comes stock with launch control). So I think Ford knows how to make the right components and make them strong enough to last.

Now for my ignorance in the matter, if the Bronco has an option for a front M210 diff, and people are looking to put 37's on it, that would be the one option I would look at getting.

On another note, I do know that 4WP poached one of the lead designers from Fox a few years ago, so I would imagine these new coilovers have a very, very similar design to something that Fox would produce. My questions are if they do have any internal bypasses like the 2.5" and 3.0" Fox/King coilovers have. If they do, I would imagine they are going to perform as good, if not better than the Bilsteins. Only time will really tell at this point.
I appreciate the information that is being shared on this thread. For someone like myself who is not an expert on the issue of lifting, it would be so much more reassuring if Ford were to provide the lift from the factory for the 37 inch tires given that they would be tested and there will be factory warranties. My question is does the sasquatch package minimize the potential risk from lifting for the 37 inch tires? It seems there are so many variables in lifting that the wrong choices could end up causing more problems.
 
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