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Ryuk

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My question is does the sasquatch package minimize the potential risk from lifting for the 37 inch tires?
IMHO, I am going to say yes, simply due to the fact that it guarantees you have the M210 Front Axle and M220 rear axle on the models that normally do not come with them.
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North7

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I supported my statement with facts.
Use that same tactic to elaborate on how you think this is an upgrade, what features and specs add to your point?

Okay it's got adjustable preload. I'll give it that, thats about it.

Less oil volume
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No rebound ESCV
No factory warranty
I see we have a number of new people who have not read your excellent Bilstein thread.

BILSTEIN ESCV Bronco suspension / shocks explained - "End Stop Control Valve" Dampers (Bronco HOSS Suspension w/ Position Sensitive Dampers)
 

Hey19

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Good information and thoughts in this thread and I believe it is difficult (read: not cheap) to equal the stock all around performance of the factory offerings. When it comes time to step up the off road game to exceed the factory, compromises will have to be made. Better articulation for crawling or control for high speed desert running will certainly degrade performance in day to day commuter type driving. Even if your goal is a mall crawler on 37"s, a higher center of gravity is your compromise along with a higher rate of wear of driveline components.
 

2Jeeps&PatriotX1

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People who are coming from factory size tires (up to 33ā€) on their vehicles and are inquiring about running 37s on their Bronco are in for an eye opening experience. Just throwin that out there.
 

Hoofnmouth

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If people know already that they want a bigger lift/tires than Sasquatch provides, the math starts getting complicated.

Depending on what your ultimate plan is, youā€™ll end up paying for various things twice.

Thereā€™s also all the other things Sas gets you depending on trim (diff gearing, wider tires with less offset, upgraded front diff) that are most certainly cheaper from the factory if theyā€™re what you want.

I donā€™t think youā€™re wrong to forgo squatch at order and do it yourself, but one really needs to crunch some numbers to see if it makes sense for them.

Similar but slightly different: I wanted High/Lux but a mild lift to run 33/34s. I figured out how to build it a few different ways from different trims (assuming average aftermarket lift costs, etc) and eventually settled on the way that made the most sense for me.
Yup that was my issue do i just lift it myself? But the gearing is what a chunk of the cost of the sas is . Its going to suck to have to get rid of coilovers and a bunch of other parts but im going bigger and hopefully there will be a market for sas takeoffs and i can recoup some $.
 

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Werkedperformance

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Yup that was my issue do i just lift it myself? But the gearing is what a chunk of the cost of the sas is . Its going to suck to have to get rid of coilovers and a bunch of other parts but im going bigger and hopefully there will be a market for sas takeoffs and i can recoup some $.
I'm expecting to clear 37 at sasquatch height. Suspect aftermarket will make this feasible with clearance through fender options, with wheels that have squatch style backspacing. (Badlands lock wheels on 1" spacers for same overall backspacing for me).
 

395N

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Bad guy post incoming.

Iā€™m skeptical that the base axle can handle 37s well. That is a lot of tire for an base factory axle to handle, and Iā€™d worry about damaging the base drivetrain.

I doubt the 210 axle will be an issue with 37s, but then Iā€™d worry about CV angle. Iā€™m not an engineer, so maybe Iā€™m wrong, but Iā€™d be cautious about lifting and fitting 37s on anything not a Badlands or squatched.

Im incredibly utilitarian and donā€™t care about the look in the parking lot... who cares about how it looks versus how you need it to perform? Seems like a waste.
CV angles look fine. Just hoping they didn't have to use a diff drop.
Ford Bronco 4WP explains their 1" - 3" lift kit for the Bronco 3370842E-CD79-4353-B7B4-C773833EE118
 

Gamecock

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I'm expecting to clear 37 at sasquatch height.
I highly doubt that happens. Itā€™s not only the fender that has to clear, it has to clear going the other way inside too...and that Sasquatch lift looks very snug for 35s to begin with.
 

Sgt Beavis

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Specific to the 4WP lift. It doesnā€™t look like they are replacing the upper/lower control arms for the rear axle. Wonā€™t that that much of a geometry change wear on the drive shaft u joints under flex?

Iā€™m really hoping the Warthog comes from the factory with 37s. Then I donā€™t have to bother with it. I just finished doing on a proper 3.5ā€ lift on my Rubicon with a full Metalcloak kit. That, with the labor costs, was not a cheap endeavor. Itā€™s another reason Iā€™m also excited for the Gen3 Raptor. Optional 37s is something Iā€™m very interested in.
 

Itchysquatch

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Interesting that they went with a 8" wide wheel.

And for the guys who will wheel HARD and do so with a 2.5+ inch lift, you are going to have issues with the front CV shaft.
probably have to stretch the boot, or change to a silicone boot (pita). But yeah. Iā€™m not planning on lifting mine, iā€™ve driven a lifted truck for 13 years.... constantly fiddling with finding the right set up, while dropping $$ and parts along the way. The bronco was designed from the ground up to be modified, but for me the ability to run 35ā€ tires right away is plenty. But I get it, 37s do look bad ass. For those that think they are necessary, Iā€™d disagree. Iā€™ve wheeled some pretty difficult trails with 33s, which no problem. Anyway, just my unwanted input ;)
 

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Raptor911

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Something to think about. The steering rack on the Bronco is electric. The inner boot on the rack side has to be water tight to protect the electronics. The Gen2 raptor is the same. If water gets in the it will harm the electronics and kill the rack. When you lift it too tall and also wheel the hell out of it, you will damage the boot.

Again, the hard core guys here will push it and teach the rest not what to do.

:)

probably have to stretch the boot, or change to a silicone boot (pita). But yeah. Iā€™m not planning on lifting mine, iā€™ve driven a lifted truck for 13 years.... constantly fiddling with finding the right set up, while dropping $$ and parts along the way. The bronco was designed from the ground up to be modified, but for me the ability to run 35ā€ tires right away is plenty. But I get it, 37s do look bad ass. For those that think they are necessary, Iā€™d disagree. Iā€™ve wheeled some pretty difficult trails with 33s, which no problem. Anyway, just my unwanted input ;)
 

Raptor911

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The irony of 37s on the Gen3 raptor is less travel. But I am sure it will look killer.

Specific to the 4WP lift. It doesnā€™t look like they are replacing the upper/lower control arms for the rear axle. Wonā€™t that that much of a geometry change wear on the drive shaft u joints under flex?

Iā€™m really hoping the Warthog comes from the factory with 37s. Then I donā€™t have to bother with it. I just finished doing on a proper 3.5ā€ lift on my Rubicon with a full Metalcloak kit. That, with the labor costs, was not a cheap endeavor. Itā€™s another reason Iā€™m also excited for the Gen3 Raptor. Optional 37s is something Iā€™m very interested in.
 

71to21-2DR

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Maybe. However you have to realize we are dealing with IFS using CV half shafts. CVs have limited range of motion when compared to a U-joint AND the horizontal axis of the droop is only from the wheel bearings to the differential, as compared to the entire width of a solid axle. What I'm saying is the limiting factor for suspension travel is the CV shafts not the coil over setup.

My point is your expectations for the IFS may not be met. The IFS is a tradeoff for highway performance. A vehicle cannot do every thing perfect.
It will all work out in the end.
 

dgorsett

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I actually worked for Firestone when all that was going down. Those Radial ATX tires had problems, and I still think one of the issues was that they lasted so long. It was not uncommon to see Explorers with 100k-110k+ miles on the original set of tires, still with acceptable tread left, but due to age and miles in service were dry rotted, cracked, and starting to split in several places leaving them susceptible to unexpected and sometimes disastrous blowouts.
I had them on my Explorer, I ran them right up to the deadline to get free replacements. I think the situation was overblown (pun?). Run adequate pressure and inspect.
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