6.5 inch subs onto kick panel

[Tiresmoke410]

Has anyone put 6.5 inch subs into the kickpanel location?
Seems like a viable option to add some low end to the factory system without reinventing any wheels.
But do not think that area is sealed. So not sure how well subs would actually work there. Or if that area is more rattle prone.
If anyone has tried please share the results.

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[Erock]

Wouldn’t think there would be enough air volume in that area for a true sub. Especially with all the reinforcement needed on the mounting surface. Best of luck though.

 

[fallguy]

While on the subject, hopefully not hijacking the thread, would replacing a kicker brand speaker over the stock one need more power? Or would just plug and play work? Need an Amp?

Added two kickers to the windshield speakers, helped out a lot.

 

[Wannabe Techie]

You'll want to keep those 6.5s. The 4" speakers just aren't loud enough even with an amp. Upgraded speakers will def sound better but the 4" dash and 4" rears just don't create enough volume by themselves especially if you have the top off.

 

[fallguy]

You'll want to keep those 6.5s. The 4" speakers just aren't loud enough even with an amp. Upgraded speakers will def sound better but the 4" dash and 4" rears just don't create enough volume by themselves especially if you have the top off.

I dont think I phrased my question right. Replacing the stock 6.5's with a after market one, does it need an amp to power it or just swapping out be better sound like with the dash speakers?

 

[fitterhappier]

You’ll need an amp for the 6.5s. They will sound cleaner but you will lose all of your low end without an aftermarket amp.

 

[RagnarKon]

I dont think I phrased my question right. Replacing the stock 6.5's with a after market one, does it need an amp to power it or just swapping out be better sound like with the dash speakers?

Depends on the speaker.

If you are looking at Kicker speakers, for example... if you are swapping in DS series speakers or even the majority of the CS series speakers, you should be fine. KS or QS speakers you'll almost certainly want an amplifier.

Three things you care about when it comes to speakers:

• Frequency Response - Since the Bronco doesn't have a sub from the factory and all of your low end is coming from those 6.5" kick panel speakers, you want the range to be on the lower end.
• Sensitivity - Higher the sensitivity the more volume you'll gain from a particular amplifier. The lower the sensitivity the more "fullness" and "clarity" a speaker will have. If you don't have an aftermarket amplifier you typically want a higher sensitivity.
• Power handling - Maximum power the speaker can handle before it starts to distort on you. Again, the more power it can handle typically the better sound quality the speaker will have. Usually speakers who can handle more power have a lower sensitivity.

TYPICALLY—

• Speakers which have better sound quality—
  • Lower Sensitivity
  • Higher Power Handling
• Speakers which work better with factory audio systems—
  • High Sensitivity
  • Lower Power Handling.

 

[fallguy]

Depends on the speaker.

If you are looking at Kicker speakers, for example... if you are swapping in DS series speakers or even the majority of the CS series speakers, you should be fine. KS or QS speakers you'll almost certainly want an amplifier.

Three things you care about when it comes to speakers:

• Frequency Response - Since the Bronco doesn't have a sub from the factory and all of your low end is coming from those 6.5" kick panel speakers, you want the range to be on the lower end.
• Sensitivity - Higher the sensitivity the more volume you'll gain from a particular amplifier. The lower the sensitivity the more "fullness" and "clarity" a speaker will have. If you don't have an aftermarket amplifier you typically want a higher sensitivity.
• Power handling - Maximum power the speaker can handle before it starts to distort on you. Again, the more power it can handle typically the better sound quality the speaker will have. Usually speakers who can handle more power have a lower sensitivity.

TYPICALLY—

• Speakers which have better sound quality—
  • Lower Sensitivity
  • Higher Power Handling
• Speakers which work better with factory audio systems—
  • High Sensitivity
  • Lower Power Handling.

Thanks you for the in depth reply. I added two Kicker CS speakers to the front. Liked the way it sounded so much better, adding more in the back. They're currently in the mail.

Wanted to add kicker (location) speakers as well, but just wanted to make sure the in car amp was good enough. I do plan on adding a sub and amp at some point soon. Or having it done, the kicker tailgate one.

Trying to decide if I want to have all speakers wired through it or just the sub. And where I want to put the amp. Thanks again.

 

[Erock]

@fallguy just my opinion, but if you’re going through the trouble of adding an amp for a sub, you should go ahead and power your other speakers as well to balance out your sound. They’ll already have panels and what not removed just to do the sub… so the wiring for speakers isn’t much more. This is especially true if you are running a T harness and LOC to get the signal to the amp to begin with. Plug-n-play kits has the T harness and LOC’s that will make it a super easy install. They even have kits with amps, plus carry some kicker speakers… so maybe you could do all of your shopping in one spot.

I’m not affiliated with plugnplaykits in any way… I’ve just looked at what they sell.

 

[fallguy]

I have looked on the site, and most things seem sold out. It is all a bit confusing with so many too.

Can you recommend what I would need? I have the base 6 speaker setup. I have four 4" kicker CS speakers in front and rear. Will order the 6.5" kickers for the kick panel. I want the kicker tailgate 12" sub. What kit, or parts are needed?

 

[Cl1ckst3r]

I had my local stereo shop recommend a system. They suggested upgrading the four 4" speakers and adding a down-firing subwoofer. They recommended Powerbass 2XL-403 for the coaxials with no amplifier and for the subwoofer, they used a JL Audio 12T3-D8 powered by Powerbass XL-2305MX.

I was worried that I wouldn't like the sound but it sounds awesome. There is lots of bass to work with which is rarely turned up more that 1/4 volume and the highs are much better with the new 4" speakers. I can turn main volume past 25....it's almost too loud. ;-)

Links:

https://powerbassusa.com/us/en/products/mobile-audio/2xl-403-4-full-range/
https://powerbassusa.com/us/en/products/mobile-audio/xl-2305mx-2ch-powersport-amplifier/

I asked initially why they didn't recommend upgrading the kick-panel speakers and they said they didn't think it was worth but if I wanted an upgraded speaker they would recommend a mid-woofer. Something like this: https://powerbassusa.com/us/en/products/mobile-audio/4xl-65T-65-mid-range/

 

[Erock]

Kit #21 or 23 or 49 or 50 or 52 or 53 all look available and will power a sub along with the other speakers. My personal preference of all those would be the kit #53, mainly for the DSP… However, I like the JL VXi DSP better as far as a built in DSP amp goes. Not everyone cares enough to wanna deal with the hassle of setting up a DSP though, so it’s not for everyone. It looked like all of those were available when I looked, so I left out the ones using the kicker key amps because no one seems to be able to get one. I try to only point out what is available out there in an unbiased manner, because I don’t like to feel responsible if folks don’t like the results. Hence why I don’t really just recommend things. I will say though, the kicker L7TDF 10” is a pretty badass little sub using a very small space.

 

[B A C N O W]

I had my local stereo shop recommend a system. They suggested upgrading the four 4" speakers and adding a down-firing subwoofer. They recommended Powerbass 2XL-403 for the coaxials with no amplifier and for the subwoofer, they used a JL Audio 12T3-D8 powered by Powerbass XL-2305MX.

I was worried that I wouldn't like the sound but it sounds awesome. There is lots of bass to work with which is rarely turned up more that 1/4 volume and the highs are much better with the new 4" speakers. I can turn main volume past 25....it's almost too loud. ;-)

Links:

https://powerbassusa.com/us/en/products/mobile-audio/2xl-403-4-full-range/
https://powerbassusa.com/us/en/products/mobile-audio/xl-2305mx-2ch-powersport-amplifier/

I asked initially why they didn't recommend upgrading the kick-panel speakers and they said they didn't think it was worth but if I wanted an upgraded speaker they would recommend a mid-woofer. Something like this: https://powerbassusa.com/us/en/products/mobile-audio/4xl-65T-65-mid-range/

That’s a strange recommendation for an SUV (increased volume) in the $40k to $70k range that doesn’t have sound treatment and faces increased noise intrusion from roof, tires, shape (wind), etc…

I would think that most shops would have recommended (at the very least) a decent budget build that included component speakers and a 4 channel amp! But, at least you’re satisfied with the results

 

[Cl1ckst3r]

That’s a strange recommendation for an SUV (increased volume) in the $40k to $70k range that doesn’t have sound treatment and faces increased noise intrusion from roof, tires, shape (wind), etc…

I would think that most shops would have recommended (at the very least) a decent budget build that included component speakers and a 4 channel amp! But, at least you’re satisfied with the results

He gave me a phase II option if I wasn't satisfied with the results which would have been a dedicated amp for the cabin speakers and upgraded mid-woofer in the kick panel.

Even after driving for the last 45 days, I am happy with the loudness, clarity, and low end (with the top up or down). I'll admit that I am no audiophile but just adding some real tweeters and a subwoofer mad a ton of difference.

 

[BroncoAZ]

I purchased harness Kit 11-4 from plugnplaykits.com and the amp off Amazon. I haven’t had a chance to install it yet, but today may be the day. Kit 11-4 is the one for the Kicker Key 200.4 plus the load resistor and 17’ of speaker level outputs for another sub amp. He put the connector for the Kicker Key 500.1 sub amp, so when JL Audio finally releases their sub for the B&O location it’s an easy add on. Also no affiliation with plugnplaykits.com, but the guy was very knowledgeable when we spoke on the phone. The 200.4 amp will be mounted under the steering column, the 500.1 amp will likely go up on the bar above the glove box.

I have been considering installing a 6.5” component set in the front, like the JL Audio C2650 for $329, with just the tweeter in the dashboard location. Option B is rewiring the amp kit to biamp the component speakers using its internal active crossover, then using the AudioFrog GS60 midrange and GS10 tweeter in the dashboard. The internal crossover is at 3200 Hz and 24dB/octave, AudioFrog recommends 3500 Hz and 12dB/octave so close enough. I don’t generally like the sound stage with rear speakers, so I’d likely remove the rear pods entirely for better visibility out the back.

My last audio build was in my 2006 Dodge 2500, it was running JL 300/2 and 500/1 amps, Boston Acoustics SPZ60 components, two JL 10W3 in individual sealed boxes. That setup was excellent, and everything was stealth. Something that made a significant difference was removing the entire interior except the dashboard and adding sound deadening mat everywhere including three layers in the doors. That truck was quieter than most luxury SUV’s.

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https://www.crutchfield.com/p_898GS60/Audiofrog-GS60.html

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_898GS10/Audiofrog-GS10.html

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