74 Weld Steering Rack (SAVE YOUR CASH)

[HighVelocity]

This is why you take all the Bitcoin money you made 10 years ago and reinvest it in Gamestop.

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[mpeugeot]

Why do you say it's not user serviceable? 74weld sent me an empty housing to install my 3.0 parts myself. While I agree it's totally overpriced there is no alternative and until the Chinese come out with something that's cheap and sturdy there aren't very many alternatives. I do appreciate 74 welds stepping up and actually creating a part that works for all of us although I think they're missing the market pricing and volume , by not advertising the part for F-150s Raptors, Rangers and others. On the other side of this there are areas especially on the input side of the 74 weld rack that needs definite improvements in fact I'm working on this right now independently of Quinn however he has agreed to send me a free top cap on the input side to machine out and press in an actual bearing. The factory set up uses the bushing instead and the 74 well just follows the OEM Construction in this area. When you're running 41 in tires like I am and you put them up against the curb and try and turn the tires that puts an immense amount of force on that upper portion of the input shaft right before the U-joint. Mine wobbles at least a quarter inch side to side (as do most of the OEM ones.)

Lots of things are overpriced these days even the Spicer ultimate rear axle that I purchased is not really that great of a deal when you consider the production price cost of the m220 selling point and you factor in that the u60 still has semi float axles. Most of these cost problems are directly related to lack of volume, it's not like spicers out selling thousands of these replacement axles. Same thing for 74 welds micro Market on these steering racks. I'm just thankful that somebody with a good machine shop has stepped up to the plate so I don't actually have to pay my guy to do it. Custom machine work is even more expensive.

Fair enough, but from what 74Weld had previously stated, they were not supporting DIY assembly of the rack (based on their video). I am glad that has either changed or evolved where it is supported.

 

[swamp2]

Yup. When 74 weld says "if you break it we'll replace it, no questions asked" They're lying.

Hmmm, I would not got nearly as far as claiming that. If you break their parts, no questions. Is it even remotely reasonable to ask them to cover the steering internals made by Ford or your tie rods?

 

[swamp2]

Interesting timing on this as a few days ago I asked 74W if I could buy new bushings to take the double shear out and go back to conventional tierods.

I don't think that the weak point of the tie rods is the outer heim (heim itself, heim mounting in tie rod or in knuckle). So, I doubt switching from dual to single shear will accomplish the goal of making the tie rod the fuse. The single shear FMI or RPG tie rods are still very BEEFY.

One approach could be something similar to the mid threaded section of a factory tie rod, just beefier. Another option would just be a machined down section of the tie rod to weaken it.

I'd love to have a test system with a load cell and I could develop something killer. Would be too niche though to make any real $$...

 

[SierraBronco]

I don't think that the weak point of the tie rods is the outer heim (heim itself, heim mounting in tie rod or in knuckle). So, I doubt switching from dual to single shear will accomplish the goal of making the tie rod the fuse. The single shear FMI or RPG tie rods are still very BEEFY.

One approach could be something similar to the mid threaded section of a factory tie rod, just beefier. Another option would just be a machined down section of the tie rod to weaken it.

I'd love to have a test system with a load cell and I could develop something killer. Would be too niche though to make any real $$...

Yeah-I wasn’t clear on that. I’d be pulling the RPG units completely and going back to Ford Performance tierods. Maybe Rock Krawler but they might be too strong.

 

[SierraBronco]

Hmmm, I would not got nearly as far as claiming that. If you break their parts, no questions. Is it even remotely reasonable to ask them to cover the steering internals made by Ford or your tie rods?

I feel like I remember one of the 74W videos where they talk about a guy that hit a tree at 40 mph. I’d have to watch it again but the big thing was how bulletproof everything was and that even after a hit that hard nothing broke-just threw it out of alignment. I feel like in that video claims were made with the whole no questions asked lifetime rack warranty, but it’s been awhile and I could be making that up so don’t quote me on it. Either way, if one drops $6k on this bolt-in bulletproof solution, would it be unreasonable to expect the entire product purchased from them to be covered by said claims? If we’re going to start picking apart all the different components not made in house it seems like it’s going to be pretty easy to simply deny anything that goes wrong.

And don’t get me wrong, I get what you’re saying. But if a company is selling a product based on being the ultimate solution, throwing an asterisk in there doesn’t exude confidence. I think @87-Z28 has a screenshot of what was on their website.

 

[BigMeatsBronco]

Once youve upgraded to the 74WELD stage 3 , the new weakest point would be the small short threads in the ends of the rack bar itself. Pretty certain those would fail before the pinion gears. You can see there is already a fuse....the smallest machined point right before the ball. On the Rough cuntries (TOP) this necked down area is nearly doubled there size of original 2.0 tie rods

 

[swamp2]

Yeah-I wasn’t clear on that. I’d be pulling the RPG units completely and going back to Ford Performance tierods. Maybe Rock Krawler but they might be too strong.

Merry Christmas! I'm waiting for my kids new drone batteries to charge...

That sounds clever - all the way back to FP. Those would obviously be a fuse. The problem is they are definitely too weak of a fuse. The challenge is to have everything like (SWAG) 2x-3x stronger but still having the new, stronger tie rod as the logical, cost appropriate fuse.

 

[swamp2]

Once youve upgraded to the 74WELD stage 3 , the new weakest point would be the small short threads in the ends of the rack bar itself. Pretty certain those would fail before the pinion gears.

Merry Christmas.

Do you think this threaded joint can fail in bending or tension (I doubt compression)? Would the rack bar (female thread) or the inner tie rod (male thread) fail. Has the failure of this joint happened in all stock scenarios or is the stock fuse always the outer tie rod?

 

[SierraBronco]

Merry Christmas! I'm waiting for my kids new drone batteries to charge...

That sounds clever - all the way back to FP. Those would obviously be a fuse. The problem is they are definitely too weak of a fuse. The challenge is to have everything like (SWAG) 2x-3x stronger but still having the new, stronger tie rod as the logical, cost appropriate fuse.

Guess I’m looking at it as-the Ford parts are what will break, so it makes sense to go with the fuse Ford built for said parts. Even if they’re being held in more tightly with the billet rack

 

[popo_patty]

Guess I’m looking at it as-the Ford parts are what will break, so it makes sense to go with the fuse Ford built for said parts. Even if they’re being held in more tightly with the billet rack warranty

Merry Christmas.

I’ve had excellent life span on my FP tie rods. But I’m also a tad cautious. I only use my front locker when needed and turn it off again right away after. When I have the front locker engaged I don’t turn a lot either.

I also am always aware of if my front end gets in a bind and if I feel it is, I don’t try to push through. I think I’ve also just been lucky but seriously, changing a tie rod is stupid easy and everyone off-roading should know how to do it. It’s a must.

 

[SierraBronco]

Merry Christmas.

I’ve had excellent life span on my FP tie rods. But I’m also a tad cautious. I only use my front locker when needed and turn it off again right away after. When I have the front locker engaged I don’t turn a lot either.

I also am always aware of if my front end gets in a bind and if I feel it is, I don’t try to push through. I think I’ve also just been lucky but seriously, changing a tie rod is stupid easy and everyone off-roading should know how to do it. It’s a must.

Heck that’s how we run ours anyway. Wifey is awesome about turning the front locker off or telling her copilot to get it for her. Kills me watching the cabin videos where they’re smashing the diff lock on or off

 

[BigMeatsBronco]

Merry Christmas.

Do you think this threaded joint can fail in bending or tension (I doubt compression)? Would the rack bar (female thread) or the inner tie rod (male thread) fail. Has the failure of this joint happened in all stock scenarios or is the stock fuse always the outer tie rod?

Merry Christmas

I don't follow all the steering carnage on all the social media platforms. but in my 35 yrs of experience with other IFS vehicles tie rod and steering systems , I predict the threads to pull out on extension and the necked down area near the inner joint to fail under compression loads, BEFORE the rack bar buckled or broke.

 

[Snacktime]

I would think 74Weld would straight warranty the rack to get the broken one back. For how much @ScLeCo has spent with 74Weld they should be at least eat the labor on the rack.

I got your Hoss 2.0 if you need it? I am a huge fan of my Dorman tie rods so far, really it's the rubber boots they use

Merry Egg Nog!

 

[Lcubed]

To replace this 74 weld charges $2086. As you may notice this is more than the cost of an entire HOSS 3.0. Because that's what you're buying and then the labor costs to swap it out.

Just to be clear, did you attempt to exercise the 'lifetime warranty'?

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