Oh yes. Though I suppose it’s only an issue depending on how important that is to ya. Once it self clearances it’s less of a problem
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Adams Driveshaft double cardan style driveshaft installed
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OK it turns out it is actually 32mm, and 1-1/4" fits just as well. I gambled and didn't pick up any sockets on my way home, as the consensus here was, shall we say...a bit inconclusive LOL. But it turned out I actually did have the right size, both of them actually (inch and metric). I'll add the final answer to my original question for anyone searching that info in the future.Good point. “MAY have used a 34mm. But can’t remember. Just grabbed one until it fit. Here’s one of the answers from the internet that seems to match other answers from the internet”
Oh by the way this is for the standard transfer case. I don't see why the advanced T-case would have a different size output shaft but I'm adding this caveat just in case. The only reason I'm suspicious is because the yoke flange Jim Reel gave me to put on there did not fit...the splines are very slightly too small. Perhaps he gave me one that is known to fit the advanced T-case by mistake, and maybe they're different. No clue but I hope to get that sorted out today.
Glad you had the right size. Not glad your yoke didn’t fit. Are you sure you used the correct tool?
Wtf. How did you get a video of me working on my rig.Glad you had the right size. Not glad your yoke didn’t fit. Are you sure you used the correct tool?
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I thought it was my own home security footage until realizing there wasn’t a claw hammerWtf. How did you get a video of my working on my rig.
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Yes. You have to trim the skid plate and add the rock jock sway bar to slightly limit flex to keep it from making contact.
Trim yes. I feel confident in saying the sway bar isn’t helping at all. Poor thing is just getting thrashed.
The sway bar will provide resistance to articulation by torsional stiffness of the main bar, ie one wheel up and other down. It contributes no significant stiffness when axle moves laterally.
lack of lateral stiffness is the concern. If it were possible to properly triangulate the upper links as straight rods that would help a bunch. Not possible using oem frame mounts since fuel tank is in the way. Compromise is to use fairly bent links to get around tank resulting in significant lateral stiffness loss. Would also be beneficial to mount upper links on axle closer to pinion CL, increasing triangulation. Again difficult due to interference issues.
If the mounts can easily take the loads, and links remain elastic (no deformation) then this compromise may be fine. Just need to deal with all the increased axle displacements. A good thing for articulation if it will hold up long term. Shocks also need to be able to pivot to relieve load at frame mounts.
lack of lateral stiffness is the concern. If it were possible to properly triangulate the upper links as straight rods that would help a bunch. Not possible using oem frame mounts since fuel tank is in the way. Compromise is to use fairly bent links to get around tank resulting in significant lateral stiffness loss. Would also be beneficial to mount upper links on axle closer to pinion CL, increasing triangulation. Again difficult due to interference issues.
If the mounts can easily take the loads, and links remain elastic (no deformation) then this compromise may be fine. Just need to deal with all the increased axle displacements. A good thing for articulation if it will hold up long term. Shocks also need to be able to pivot to relieve load at frame mounts.
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OK its looking like the standard t-case output shaft is different than the advanced t-case. I've moved my discussion of it to a different thread so I don't hijack @Bmadda's thread any further.
my apologies 
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Absolutely I did. I have a really bad habit of that. Not really a forum guy, not that a lack of experience is any excuse.
I can say that our new upper arms from RK came in today. Got our pinion angle pushed up and Adams said it looks perfect. Just gotta torque it down and go for a drive to verify.
Edit-Old angle vs new. Wondering if the machine shop that put the truss on pushed it too far back as nobody else has had this issue. (Or at least brought it up on the forums) Rock Krawler made us custom arms that are 3/4” longer than normal so we could push diff back and get pinion angle up but stay above SAE specs with exposed thread.
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Mine definitely helped….just enough to keep it from touching. Of course I lost a tad bit of down travel. I think a lot of the issue with yours is it doesn’t have much support since you lowered….but I will say it is a very light duty sway bar. I have the lightest on TK1 makes on my 68 bronco and it makes the rock jock set up look wimpy.
@SierraBronco I was just kidding. That’s what makes this forum entertaining.
might not have been welded on precisely to spec. I could see that causing an issue. Curious what specs Rk provided?
might not have been welded on precisely to spec. I could see that causing an issue. Curious what specs Rk provided?
Oh I have this issue as well. I just haven’t complained about it. The upper links are too short to get the pinion angle correct without a ton of thread showing…Absolutely I did. I have a really bad habit of that. Not really a forum guy, not that a lack of experience is any excuse.
I can say that our new upper arms from RK came in today. Got our pinion angle pushed up and Adams said it looks perfect. Just gotta torque it down and go for a drive to verify.
Edit-Old angle vs new. Wondering if the machine shop that put the truss on pushed it too far back as nobody else has had this issue. (Or at least brought it up on the forums) Rock Krawler made us custom arms that are 3/4” longer than normal so we could push diff back and get pinion angle up but stay above SAE specs with exposed thread.
haven’t fully followed sierrabronco’s complete build. What do you mean by lowered?
Yeah I think the RJ rear torsion bar is only 0.85” diameter. Stiffness is a function of diameter to 4th power. Even a bump to 1” dia makes a big difference.
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