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Adding 16 lbs per wheel too much? (Swapping P rated to LT)

Used2jeep

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You just blew through the GVRW. The tire dealer will be required to notify your state DOT, and you will be flagged in the system for an APB.
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acetdeucy

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I asked around off the cuff in different threads but still trying to figure this out.

swap stock OBX duelers (41 lb 32.1x10.2) to 275/70r18 (33.2x11.1). They only come in E. Unfortunately. The best tire I’m seeing for comfort etc given I’m in E load land, without exceeding 60 lbs, are the Cooper AT3 XLT at 57 lbs.

I plan on getting the higher gearing. But how concerned should I be adding 16 lbs of weight per wheel. Big impact on MPG, or just handling? I heard since it’s sprung weight i times it by 6, that’s 400 lbs of static weight. Making a 5000 lb truck feel like a 5400 sounds, doesn’t sound great. Then again, the BL 33” tires are C rated and 50 lbs so that plus lift and maybe the ride quality of my OBX is about the same as a stock BL? Possibly better with softer suspension.

Am I over thinking this...since just about every other guy here is planning on going from a stock P rated tire to an LT
Waaay overthinking this... If you had chosen the Sasquatch package, the wheels are about 30 lbs and the 315 tires might be another 52 lbs. Additionally, when people start putting on new wheels and 37’s, your looking at 34 to 36 lb wheels and +/-70 lb tires on a 4.70 gear.

You are correct about the other stuff... the drive will change.A good part of the charm with any wheel/tire change is that the road feel will be altered. If you add taller tires, there will be less feel to your squishy ride. If you add more weight at the wheels, your mpg is reduced and the handling feel slows. If you add both, then it’s even more fun.

btw, part of the reason for getting worse mpg, is that you’ve raised your Bronco. This forced more air under your suspension to get trapped. That’s part of the reason the manufacturer’s are making less headroom and lower set to the ground cars. Pretty soon, you won’t be able to get in a new car, if you’re over 5’ 4”.
 

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Just to address the OP, you want lower gears, not higher. The only reason to get higher gears is if you were going with smaller tires and only concerned about highway use. Going to an LT tire for an offroad vehicle is a good idea. You're on on the right track.

I want the lowest gears possible and I'll run E rated tires. If the desired performance is not there, I'll regear.
 

LarryZiegler

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I asked around off the cuff in different threads but still trying to figure this out.

swap stock OBX duelers (41 lb 32.1x10.2) to 275/70r18 (33.2x11.1). They only come in E. Unfortunately. The best tire I’m seeing for comfort etc given I’m in E load land, without exceeding 60 lbs, are the Cooper AT3 XLT at 57 lbs.

I plan on getting the higher gearing. But how concerned should I be adding 16 lbs of weight per wheel. Big impact on MPG, or just handling? I heard since it’s sprung weight i times it by 6, that’s 400 lbs of static weight. Making a 5000 lb truck feel like a 5400 sounds, doesn’t sound great. Then again, the BL 33” tires are C rated and 50 lbs so that plus lift and maybe the ride quality of my OBX is about the same as a stock BL? Possibly better with softer suspension.

Am I over thinking this...since just about every other guy here is planning on going from a stock P rated tire to an LT
Tires and wheels are unsprung weight (not supported by suspension system). Extra weight does take extra fuel to roll down the road & increased diameter requires lower gearing to maintain similar performance characteristics
 
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jaruss01

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You just blew through the GVRW. The tire dealer will be required to notify your state DOT, and you will be flagged in the system for an APB.
Haha
 

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HPNQ420

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I asked around off the cuff in different threads but still trying to figure this out.

swap stock OBX duelers (41 lb 32.1x10.2) to 275/70r18 (33.2x11.1). They only come in E. Unfortunately. The best tire I’m seeing for comfort etc given I’m in E load land, without exceeding 60 lbs, are the Cooper AT3 XLT at 57 lbs.

I plan on getting the higher gearing. But how concerned should I be adding 16 lbs of weight per wheel. Big impact on MPG, or just handling? I heard since it’s sprung weight i times it by 6, that’s 400 lbs of static weight. Making a 5000 lb truck feel like a 5400 sounds, doesn’t sound great. Then again, the BL 33” tires are C rated and 50 lbs so that plus lift and maybe the ride quality of my OBX is about the same as a stock BL? Possibly better with softer suspension.

Am I over thinking this...since just about every other guy here is planning on going from a stock P rated tire to an LT
Mileage will probably go up on the highway a little bit.
Mileage will probably go down in the city a little bit.
Acceleration and braking will be a small amount worse.
If you care about off road you are talking about 0.55” of ground clearance. A fart in the wind.
If it looks better to you who cares.
But for me, the smallest tires that accomplish the mission are the best choice. But it’s not my truck.
 

dgorsett

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Mileage will probably go up on the highway a little bit.
Mileage will probably go down in the city a little bit.
Acceleration and braking will be a small amount worse.
If you care about off road you are talking about 0.55” of ground clearance. A fart in the wind.
If it looks better to you who cares.
But for me, the smallest tires that accomplish the mission are the best choice. But it’s not my truck.
I find it's always that bottom .55" that hangs up! :D

My general rule has been put on the tallest (skinny) tire that fits without modification for maximum off road performance. I also run high load range tires which avoid off road punctures and sidewall damage.

That said, I thinking of foregoing the Sas 'cause those 35's are just too much. I'm leaning Big Bend with the light 32's. Like the OP I'd like to keep weight down, for towing behind a motorhome, MPG, ride and ease of rotation/flat repair. I'll see how they do for traction, clearance and puncture resistance. If not satisfactory in one or all I'll get one or all: more aggressive AT, 33", multi ply high load tire...we'll see.
 

dgorsett

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Round and round this story goes ford/ jeep it always circles back to 33's being the best for looks/ handling/ weight considerations. Why not just buy the vehicle that comes with them. You will always be left some tradeoff trying to DIY this stuff. There also have been no specs. on the brakes yet. Assumption would be a big mistake. They do differ on trims of Jeeps. Heavier rotating mass=bigger brakes.
Like I say I'll try the 32's, the only 33" Bronco is BL too much $$ for me. 35's on Squatch are a bit much. If needed I'll upgrade to 33's when the 32's are gone or I'm sick of them. I'm sure Bronco brakes will be good, they are designed to handle 33's and 35's.
 

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That’s part of the reason the manufacturer’s are making less headroom and lower set to the ground cars.
In the year that Ford cancelled all sedans in favor of taller, higher from the ground crossovers, you're making this claim??
 

dgorsett

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Jeep brakes are good, they just are different size caliper/rotor/pad on sport models than on rubicons. Just giving you the facts. I hope they are for everyone's sake, of bolting on the biggest tire they can while not having done anything to slow them back down. But hey tires are just tires, and brakes are just brakes. They just make the car stop and go..........
Yes, it will be interesting to see if Ford up brakes the Badlands and up models maybe models associated with the M210 would be upgraded. And having flashbacks to all the pre 1980's Jeeps I've owned seeing the words Jeeps-have-good-brakes strung together shocked me a bit, but yeah, modern jeeps are fine.
 
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Silver-Bolt

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Unsprung weight and rotating mass are the worst areas to add weight. Adding 16 lbs per corner is going to affect your performance, braking, fuel economy, and suspension. All in a negative way. On my Raptor I went from the factory non-beadlock wheels at 34 lbs/ea to aftermarket wheels at 22 lbs/ea. The difference was very easy to see.
 

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To avoid confusion, I meant upgrading from 3.73 to 4.27.
hi
P rating tire is scrap if you plant to go on gravel road you can expect to blow tire easily.
change gearing is a good choice if you have lot of money $$$. for the rear diff is easy but with a front IFS suspension it`s one other thing it`s a job for professionnal ONLY with special tool. do`nt trust me just verify yourself $$$ before to say you will go with gear swap . just for fun write the price you find for that swap. i have make this in the past and i know realy the cost my friend.
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